originally posted this in the revolver forum, but realized here was probably a better place. I was thinking about ordering a spare hammer to Bob for my 60-7. Will any non rimfire hammer with the hammer mounted firing pin work? If I end up with a stripped hammer, how hard is it to strip my old hammer and assemble the new hammer?

If I use the sear off my current hammer will it eliminate the need to for fitting?

You can find bobbed hammers on ebay, this forum's classified, etc., usually cheaper than a factory hammer.

Yes use the sear from your hammer. Easy to strip and assemble just don't let the spring fly out.

The hammers with hammer nose firing pin for your gun are all the same except for being stainless or CCH. Any J frame stainless or CCH center fire model hammer with the forked spring stirrup rod will interchange. You just don't want a CCH hammer from ~pre 1962 unless you don't mind changing the spring stirrup to the ball end style.

Early forked ‘Mainspring stirrup’ was a round rod. Later flat rod is just called a ‘stirrup’ in 1977 parts list (shown w/o spring & retainer):

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Ordered this one.

S&W J frame bobbed hammer - Small Pistol Parts at GunBroker.com : 837573153

Anyway to tell which stirrup type is uses from the pics?

Yes and unfortunately it's older than 1962 and can't use the 'stirrup' type main spring rod I showed you above that your original hammer uses.

Here's the bottom of the hammer shown in the auction which has no pin for your stirrup, it has a ball socket:


Photo credit: what

For the ball tipped spring rod:


Photo credit: Gunparts

Available here for $6.00:

Smith & Wesson Model 32 Parts | Numrich Gun Parts

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Thanks for all the great info. Can I just drop in the ball tip stirrup? Are there any disadvantages to the ball tip that made smith go away from them, or was it just cheaper/easier to do the flat tip?

You're welcome.

Yes the ball tip spring strut (not stirrup) is a drop in.

No disadvantage to the ball tip strut; the stirrup spring strut was just cheaper/easier to produce, (as was the pin thru the hammer base instead of a machined ball socket), especially the 2nd version which wasn't even a round rod, just a flat stamped piece of steel.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Awesome, thanks again. I'll keep you posted once the parts come in.

Got the parts, got them in, ran in to an issue. The new hammer contacts the frame on the right hand side. Comparing the original to the new one, the pivot pin hole on the original is wider on the left hand side, and then tapers to the pin size. The new one is only the size of the pin. I'm thinking this is keeping the hammer from setting as close to the frame on the left side as the original. I was thinking about trying to drill out just a slight amount on the left side of the hammer to see if it fixes the problem.

Any thoughts?

Yeah you got it figured out. Counter sinking a tapered opening on the left side the left side of hammer hole would work. Just don't go too deep which would let the hammer scrape the left side of the frame.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Turns out the hammer is bent/not level. If you lay it flat on a table you can press on where the pin goes in, and see the top half rise up. Gotta hunt for another hammer I guess.

Are you sure the sear pin in the hand isn't protruding from the hammer body just a bit? Try to see if the sear pin is fully seated and flush or below the hammer body surface on both sides.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Good thought, presuming you mean the retaining pin for the double action sear (hammer fly). If so I agree.

Never seen a bent hammer but have seen a few with non parallel and/or wavy surfaces due to poor final shaping/polishing.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

No pin in it when I checked.

It is possible it's just wavy/non parallel. I've got a caliper I can probably dig out somewhere, but the seller thinks he has another he can exchange for. All I know is it doesn't lay flat on the one side.

Yeah, take the replacement.

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Jim
S&WCA #819