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Old 02-08-2020, 03:21 PM
fleabus101 fleabus101 is offline
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Default Checking Timing

Just aquired a 50s 357 27.
The double action timing drops right when the hammer falls,
later than my others on all cylinders the same.
Pistol is exc+ condition. I'll post on it soon.
Things to ck out
Hand condition clearance length etc
Cylinder indexes
Cylinder stop spring condition etc
Wondering if threre's any things or
Other clealances/ things to ck??
I have spare parts hands etc to use
Maybe ok just much later timing than Ive seem before.Like right before dropping.
Any input / thoughts appreciated.
Thanks Randy..
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Old 02-08-2020, 03:38 PM
Protocall_Design Protocall_Design is offline
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Normally the timing can be advanced with a wider (thicker) hand. You want the widest hand that won't bind between the frame and ratchet or push the cylinder past where the chamber lines up with the barrel. There are sometimes other elements at play, depending on the individual gun.
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Old 02-08-2020, 04:12 PM
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Before you intervene by installing a wider hand, I would check the timing with empty casings in the cylinder to confirm it's late. Also, check for excessive end shake. End shake on the cylinder (improper headspace) can contribute to timing/carry up issues.
If you have some feeler gauges, confirm the rear gauge between the breechface and the rear of the cylinder. Headspace should be between .012" and .014".

Check to see if it carrys up properly in single action.....cylinder lock up (of the cylinder stop) should occur just prior to the trigger bevel dropping into the SA cocking notch as you very slowly pull the hammer back. This is the way S&W confirms carry up. (versus using DA)
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Old 02-08-2020, 07:50 PM
fleabus101 fleabus101 is offline
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Sounds like having the sideplate off cking
the carry up watching the action when the lock up occurs in single action?
Thanks for the insight to ck out further.
Best Randy..
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Old 02-08-2020, 08:20 PM
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You don't have to take the sideplate off to do this check. (you shouldn't remove the plate)

You can both feel and hear when the cylinder locks on the cylinder stop, and when the hammer reaches the bevel in the trigger and locks back in SA. if you pull the hammer back very slowly, the cylinder should lock on the cyl stop prior to the hammer reaching the trigger bevel.

You can actually cause damage operating the action under spring tension with the sideplate removed. The mainspring strain screw should be loosened (tension relieved) any time you plan on removing the sideplate.
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Old 02-08-2020, 08:21 PM
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Fitting an over sized hand is not a procedure I would recommend to anybody who is not pretty knowledgeable and skilled. I fit oversized hands when I was in the business primarily for comp shooters and nobody else. Actually a good selection of hands is pretty much hard to find anymore. I have a good supply if anybody really needs one but the factory doesn’t offer much anymore. The steps to fitting up a proper carry up hand are involved so think about it. I know a lot of revolver smiths who used to send me hand fitting business cause they couldn’t or wouldn’t.

Rick
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Old 02-08-2020, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleabus101 View Post
Sounds like having the sideplate off cking
the carry up watching the action when the lock up occurs in single action?
Thanks for the insight to ck out further.
Best Randy..
Oh no it doesn't. Done fully assembled.
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Old 02-08-2020, 08:50 PM
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The weight of a loaded round "assists" the cylinder to rotate and fall into lock up. I made some "dummy" rounds (empty case no primer but a 158 gr bullet) and use them to test carry up. I have yet to find a used S&W that failed to have satisfactory lock up. That's over 40 years of buying and using S&W's. (But I never buy questionable guns).
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Old 02-08-2020, 08:53 PM
S&W revolverman S&W revolverman is offline
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I've stated this point in the past - now I'll state it again.

Anytime a used S&W revolver is having or seems to be having a problem . . . the very first thing to do is to totally dissasemble it and clean every part/piece. This takes away dirt that may be causing the problem(s), cause this can happen.

After a total internal cleaning of parts, then reassemble and check to see if the problem(s) are still there. If so, then you can continue on with an appropriate repair and/or adjustment.

We never encountered dirty guns at the factory, cause the only revolvers we worked on were brand new. So any problems in assembly/fitting could be attacked straight on without the need for a total cleaning.

The cylinder notches are often times forgotten to be cleaned real well. I use a tootpick and Q Tips to make them sqeaky clean.

Note: The total dissassebly of a S&W revovler is only for a factory trained aromorer
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Old 02-08-2020, 09:11 PM
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Great reminder about cleaning. I remember during our annual armorer's inspection, it would often take me several minutes of cleaning before I could even assess the fitness of the firearm, and check gauges.

Remember, shooting debris and dirt always has a negative affect on performance....sometimes to the point of causing malfunctions. Keep this in mind when you take shortcuts when cleaning, especially the cleaning and maintenance of your carry or duty guns.
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Old 02-08-2020, 10:14 PM
fleabus101 fleabus101 is offline
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Thanks for the advice and information.
Was reading K'hausen info for awhile
in researching along with my library info.
First hand info from the folks here i'll pay
attention to first..
The cleaning well and not live cartridges
ckouts. Always safety first foremost..
The first thought for me is the old
" do no harm thought "
Thanks for your guidance and patience..
Best Randy..

Last edited by fleabus101; 02-08-2020 at 10:16 PM.
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