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Old 02-13-2020, 01:17 PM
Sgt911 Sgt911 is offline
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Default Bent extractor rod

I just got the last of three poor condition revolvers back from S&W. This one is a 66-2 2 1/2 inch. There was some really heavy rust and they told me the only advisable finish would be a bead blast. I did not realize how bad it was, the pits are still pretty visible on the cylinder and the crown of the barrel. I also noted to fix any mechanical problem they could find. I just fired three cylinders of .38 fmj, shoots pretty far right. A couple things I noticed is the yoke/crane is hard to open now, it was like that before I fired it, but it wasn't when I sent it in. Also the extractor rod is bent. One cylinder hangs up completely and one rubs a bit but doesn't hang up I would have thought they would have replaced that. It doesn't seem to bind when dry firing or shooting but does a bit on a couple chambers when operating the rod. How critical is this and is it an easy swap?

Last edited by Sgt911; 02-13-2020 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:30 PM
robertrwalsh robertrwalsh is offline
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If it really is just the rod it isn't that hard or that expensive. If the yoke is tweaked that becomes more difficult and more expensive. It may not get worse by itself, but it certainly won't get any better either. Is it possible the rod is just a tad too short and maybe the front latch is not releasing fully?
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:38 PM
Sgt911 Sgt911 is offline
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Originally Posted by robertrwalsh View Post
If it really is just the rod it isn't that hard or that expensive. If the yoke is tweaked that becomes more difficult and more expensive. It may not get worse by itself, but it certainly won't get any better either. Is it possible the rod is just a tad too short and maybe the front latch is not releasing fully?
I see the rod wobbling when I rotate the cylinder
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:53 PM
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Default “bent” extractor

"Bent" extractor rods usually bind on the front locking lug, or rub on the inside of the extractor rod hole in the yoke shoulder. Usually the "bend" is actually not in the rod itself, but in the relationship between the screwed in rod and the extractor stem/body. When you true up the wobble in the rod, you're actually attempting to line up or true up the relationship between the threaded rod and stem of the extractor. The extractor rod collar throws another variable into (between) that threaded joint, and sometimes contributes to the "run out" observed at the end of the extractor rod. Sometimes, just replacing/exchanging the rod collar can true up the overall rod run out without and further intervention. If there are burrs inside the yoke shoulder cavity, (rub marks on the extractor rod from the yoke as in the photo below) the hole can be cleaned up with a .250" reamer or drill.

I straighten the run out using a fixture I purchased while at the S&W Armorer's school. It's basically a yoke barrel fit to a small block of steel that can be secured in a vise. The cylinder assembly is placed on the barrel of the fixture and the ext rod protrudes out the other side, allowing the cylinder assembly to be spun to determine if straightening is needed. The rod is then struck with a babbit bar to straighten.

Difficulty in opening/closing can be due to the center pin being a bit too short. The end of the center pin should come fully to the end of the extractor rod when the thumbpiece is pushed fully forward. If the center pin is a bit short, this can cause the end of the rod to catch on the front locking bolt. If this is the issue, you can shorten the overall length of the extractor rod in the assembly by simply removing a bit of material from the extractor rod collar in the assembly. Material can be removed from either end of the collar. This will shorten the rods overall length in the assembly without shortening the rod itself....and improve the interface of the center pin/ extractor rod and front locking bolt, making opening the cylinder easier.

EXTRACTOR ROD COLLAR


EXTRACTOR ROD ASSEMBLY (L-frame, extractor spring removed)
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:54 PM
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I removed the cylinder clean everything up a bit. Opening the cylinder only gets in a bind when I tighten down the side plate screw. If they replaced this screw could it be a tad too long causing the bind? Smith had the gun five months.

the extractor rod also only binds at the end about the knurling begins

Last edited by Sgt911; 02-13-2020 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 02-13-2020, 02:22 PM
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Yes, possibly. More likely the fitted yoke screw got reversed with the other crowned sideplate screw and is binding on the yoke button. Try reversing the position of the two crowned sideplate screws.
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Last edited by armorer951; 02-13-2020 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 02-13-2020, 02:31 PM
Sgt911 Sgt911 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertrwalsh View Post
If it really is just the rod it isn't that hard or that expensive. If the yoke is tweaked that becomes more difficult and more expensive. It may not get worse by itself, but it certainly won't get any better either. Is it possible the rod is just a tad too short and maybe the front latch is not releasing fully?
You might be right about the rod also being short, it doesn't engage the detent in the lug side much

Smith did give me a partial refund do to the fact they couldn't do a polished finish. The three ended up being $115 per gun, and I know they put new sights, hammer, trigger and stocks on the 19 I sent them.

Last edited by Sgt911; 02-13-2020 at 02:50 PM.
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