For revolver action work such as smoothing/polishing double action flats of hammers, return spring blocks and frame contact areas, and general metal to metal fine work, which size/shape/material stones do you prefer? Arkansas/Ceramic/India stone and why; also do you use different stones for a specific purpose, etc. I’ve just been using a fine Arkansas 1/4” x 3” (and 600-800 grit paper occasionally) and would like to refine and further my knowledge from my betters in this area; thanks!

I've been using two Arkansas stones. One is kind of rough grit and the other is very fine. I got them from Brownell's. I normally work with the rough stone first and rarely do I need to polish up my work. Take your time and remember you are just stoning without removing metal.

I'm sure others will have better advice for you.

This stone is similar to the one that I got at the S&W Armorers School in 1982.

NORTON - 6" X 1/2" X 1/2" INDIA STONE

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For polishing parts that have flat surfaces and that I can hold in my hand, there's nothing better than a 6" x 10" piece of laminated glass with wet/dry sandpaper paid on it. One can choose from 220 all the way up to 1500 depending on the situation, and the paper laid on the flat glass preserves those flat surfaces.

For work with stones, I prefer 1/4" stones and keep a square one and a triangular one. I've dropped mine a few time resulting in some pieces being 1" or so in length. These are perfect for polishing the areas where the rebound slide moves in the frames.

308S

I almost always prefer using Arkansas stones on firearms over files. Files remove too much metal per stroke, leave rougher surfaces and risk rounding off flat surfaces. AK. stones are not really rated with grit numbers but rather medium, fine, extra fine, super fine.

I have an array of Arkansas Stones that range from 1/8" x 1/8" x 2" all the way up to 2" x 10" x 3/4" and lots of sizes and grits in between. I almost always use honing oil with them and always clean them after use. Nothing worse than trying to do a good job with a clogged stone. Because Ak. stones work slower, the risk of going too far is minimized and when you reach the intended dimensions there is no need to go to a finer grit to polish - its already been done.

As mentioned above, a 1/4" piece (or thicker) of plate glass with fine grit Emery, Crocus or sand paper works well on flat metal - just go slow and check your work often. The glass and Silicone Carbide paper can also be used to true up the stones every once in a while as needed.

HINT: Before removing any metal, the best way to smooth out a Revolvers lock work is to shoot it. After 1000 rounds you should not have much left to do. Nothing is better at mating up contact surfaces by working the gun in with live fire. The benefit is you also get practice while doing so and gain familiarity with said Revolver. Any parts that are not smoothed out or still have burrs can them be addressed with the Arkansas stones.

Same here. I've had a set of Spyderco 1/4" ceramic files (triangular, teardrop, square & round) for many years. (Image below)

The suggestion of w&d paper on glass is excellent, too. Glue a piece down with spray adhesive and you're set to go. Alternately you can glue it to a piece of steel or aluminum flat bar as a backing for working on larger pieces held in a vise.

Attached Images

Spyderco ceramic file set.jpg (65.9 KB, 23 views)

I use the two finest stones from a Lansky knife sharpening set. The handles make them easy to work with.