I have all the parts for an S&W Victory model revolver and was going to assemble it myself. I have had no luck aligning/indexing the barrel; I came close, but without the right tools, I am afraid I will do more harm than good.

I am looking for someone/gunsmith who can properly install the barrel and check the cylinder alignment/fit. All of the parts are actual S&W Victory parts.

If anyone is interested or can recommend/refer someone, I would appreciate it. With the local shops closed due to Coronavirus, I thought I would ask here.

I will be glad to send pics or answer any questions. Thank you!

try to find a copy of a book by Jerry Kuhnhausen [ The S&W Revolver A Shop Manual ] - pages 92 to 99 give detailed simple instructions -

Its not that hard BUT you have to have the right tools...ie.... No Pry bar on the frame stuff, Need a Jig/ Frame tool you can make out of wood. Barrels are snug NOT tight.

As I recall ordinary service revolvers should have 1/8 turn of snug. Serious high volume target revolvers get about 1/4 turn of snug. You don't want to do this with a hammer handle or a pry bar or you may very well tweak the frame. You can buy a wrench (expensive) or make a perfectly good one out of some angle iron and a hardwood spacer. Ugly, but functional. Or you can, as you suggested, pay a local gunsmith a modest amount of money to put it in. I recommend option #2 unless you are seriously interested in a build-it-yourself. You will then need a range rod to check for alignment between the barrel and cylinder bores. The book recommends above is an excellent investment.

I created a home made frame wrench that worked well from YouTube videos. The problem I am having is the barrel continues to slip/rotate. I tried a wood jig and polymer/plastic vise for pipes I bought on Amazon. No luck. I am very close to correct alignment, probably 1/4 - 1/8" of movement to be on center.

I will post a few pics and welcome any advice. I was getting nervous cranking down on the barrel and just decided it was time to ask for help/guidance.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

I have done all my builds w/o any special tools - for the barrel slippage I used soft wood vise jaw protectors , a shallow grove to except barrel , + some rosin powder also helps to prevent slip - are you holding barrel in vise + turning frame ? -

I have removed and reinstalled S & W barrels before, but if your barrel and frame have never been mated before, don't try it. This needs to be preformed by a Very qualified gunsmith with a lathe.
It doesn't matter where you are, but your info says PA.
There is a very good pistol smith here in San Antonio at Ten Ring Precision. His name is Alex Hamilton. Phone number 210-494-3063. He is first class and known world wide. Smith & Wesson even has sent him work.
Be aware just fitting a barrel runs nearly $150.00
Good luck

To properly mate a barrel to a frame requires a lathe and the skill to re-cut the threads and forcing cone for barrel to cylinder gap correct fit.

__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Are you saying that the barrel turns past top dead center a bit before it tightens up? That can be taken care of without turning back the barrel shoulder. Just place a series (say 8 evenly spaced) small punch marks on either the frame face where the barrel shoulder mates to it or on the shoulder itself. Use a small punch and don't hit it that hard. The punch marks will displace a small amount of metal around each and that metal will contact and cause the barrel to tighten up correctly. This will only work if if the barrel only goes slightly past top dead center.

If the barrel will not turn up to top dead center before your "tools slip it may need some shoulder taken back. If it gets hand tight much before there is only 90 degrees left your going to need to remove a tiny bit off the barrel shoulder. Doing that without the proper tools would be difficult.
It could be done by a real steady hand and a file with one edge safed (teeth removed). But, you would have to keep the shoulder perfectly square in both planes. Most people don't have the experience or ability to do that with a file.

The reason you need good tools is to avoid tweaking the frame. I clamp the barrel in hardwood blocks in a vice in such a way I can see the top of the barrel. My frame wrench clamps on the frame right by where the barrel joins. It is inlet to fit both the area where barrel goes in AND the portion of frame where the yoke goes. The hammer handle through the frame trick will twist the front of the frame is much torque is applied.

I had a model 10 frame that I think that had been done to. Yoke had a gap at the top between it and frame and with an alignment tool the tube of yoke was not centered correctly. Had to make aa ig to twist the frame back into alignment.

For an idea on rotational movement S&W barrels use 36 to the inch threads. One full turn moves the barrel back .0278, 1/4 turn .007 and 1/8 .0035 3 degrees of rotation is only .00023. So, those last few degrees don't take much at all. A sheet of regular paper is about .004

Many thanks to everyone for the info and sharing their expertise. I am going to contact one of the recommended gunsmiths or try to find someone locally when the shops open back up.

Obviously, lots of talent here and I appreciate your time and help. Anyone experienced and interested in taking on this project, please contact me by PM.

Stay safe and thanks again!