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Old 05-17-2020, 02:35 AM
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Default 29-4 trigger return issues

I have a 29-4 non fluted cylinder that has some trigger return issues.

The piece was tuned by Nelson Ford some years ago and installed a full underlug 5" barrel. I shot it when I first got it back and its been sleeping for years.

today, I was messing with it and the trigger return was very sticky, but slightly bump the revolver and the trigger snapped fwd. The strain screw is bottomed out.

I decided to take it apart thinking it was just dry internally but I discovered the hand was very loose. It is still spring loaded on the trigger but very sloppy rotation. IIRC, I think this is called a floating hand as the hand shaft/pin seems to be "pressed" into the trigger.

I have not messed with revolvers for quite some time but could a sloppy hand cause trigger return issues?

thanks in advance







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Old 05-17-2020, 09:57 AM
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Yes, that is the infamous "floating" hand. Sometimes they work OK, sometimes not. It can be replaced with a regular hand by punching the pivot pin out of the trigger and installing the new one in the normal manner. It seems unlikely that the hand is causing this problem, though.

The easiest fix is to just put in a heavier rebound spring.

You could try the action with the hammer block removed and see if it is better without it. If so, smooth the 2 long sides of the triangle hole in the bottom with a needle file and chamfer the front and back top edges.

Also radius and polish the parts of the rebound slide and hammer where they interact when the trigger is returning forward.
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Old 05-17-2020, 10:21 PM
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follow up question

I was inspecting and tuning the 29-4 frame and noticed the rebound spring pin in the frame, the area around the pin is raised. this causes the rebound slide to ride uneven against the frame.

I wonder if thats the "drag" on trigger return or maybe enough clearance to allow the slide to not be flat on the frame.

is there a tool to shave that raised area around the pin flat?

on another note... my ejector spring loaded detent (located in the under lug of the barrel) was too short and the ejector rod would not make contact. This was a barrel swap jobber, anyway the detent looked short and I bought a new detent in 2016 and sure enough was short as I replaced it today however....

now my cylinder drags. WTH!!!!! my guess the ejector rod or yoke is off a touch.

thanks in advance

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Old 05-18-2020, 10:31 AM
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Look for drag marks of the rebound slide on the side plate where the raised area may be causing it to bind.

The ejector rod may be a bit crooked and need truing. There is a special jig for that with a dial indicator.
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Old 05-18-2020, 10:57 AM
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Another thought is did the gunsmith use grease or oil on the slide that has gummed up and dragging? Perhaps a good cleaning is necessary. If a bump of the stock sets the single action off, the trigger is too light and needs to be fixed. It could be the engagement surfaces have been stoned past where they are reliable, and trigger or hammer need to be replaced.
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Old 05-18-2020, 01:16 PM
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There were no drag marks on the rebound slide however the exterior surfaces seemed sticky and the edges were razor sharp. I polished and dehorned.

I will inspect the ejector rod closely. I bought this piece used 2015/16 and based on the top strap and turn line on the cylinder when I got it, it was hardly shot.

I will also detail clean the inside of the cylinder just in case itís gummed up in there.

The rebound spring is short, probably cut by The Gunsmith. The inside of the rebound slide felt rough.

Thanks
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Old 05-19-2020, 06:41 AM
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Cutting coils from springs is an old trick to reduce spring weight, but the shortened length often comes with unintended consequences.
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Old 05-19-2020, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stansdds View Post
Cutting coils from springs is an old trick to reduce spring weight, but the shortened length often comes with unintended consequences.
a sloppy return of the trigger. You are very correct
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Old 05-19-2020, 08:20 AM
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Thanks yíall

Something else is tweaked on this piece...

Cylinder starts to bind for a couple of holes and then frees up. My guess is when I installed the longer bolt stop/ejector rod stop detent, whatever is off just a tad reared itís ugly head.

Ejector rod and center pin appear straight, and the yoke is tight against the frame. I need one of those centering tools to see whatís off.
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