New to me 28-2

Nukewaste · #1 05-20-2020, 07:47 PM

Hello all,
Preface: I'm not a licenced gunsmith, just an enthusiast, but I am somewhat mechanically inclined.
I bought a m28-2 off the Classifieds here. I'm stoked about it, but I was wondering: I'm no SW expert, but where would you expect to see wear on somewhat older revolvers? Should the "lockup" shake a little due to use?
I've looked at the extractor star ends, the hand, which doesn't look to bad, and looking down the cylinder it looks slightly off, but can that be attributed to wear?
Thanks for your experience and support

ken158 · #2 05-20-2020, 08:10 PM

Not sure what you are asking but looks OK to me - from here. The cylinder needs to have a little movement to operate properly if that is what you are asking. End shake is checked with feeler gauge and trigger in the pulled back position between cylinder and barrel. Maybe some buyer remorse going on here? After the deal is not when you pick the gun apart trying to find something wrong with it... Seriously doubt the factory will stand behind a 20+ year old gun...

MygunisaS&Wrevolver · #3 05-20-2020, 08:41 PM

The drop timing of the cylinder stop looks to be early as indicated by the wide turn ring on the cylinder. Looks like some cylinder slot peening which may account for the poor bore cylinder alignment. Endshake can be taken up by endshake bushings but the end result is usually increased barrel cylinder gap and that may then need barrel setback. My advice would be to find a competent gunsmith that could check your model 28 and possibly make the needed repairs.

stansdds · #4 05-21-2020, 06:46 AM

Based on the photos, it is not a like new or new-in-the-box example, but is one that has been shot. Looking at the recoil shield, I don't think it has been fired a whole lot. As for the cylinder lock up, it is a S&W, not a Colt. Colt is famous for a cylinder that it solidly locked when the trigger is pulled all the way to the rear. S&W revolvers do not operate in the same fashion. Some are tighter than others, but there needs to be a 0.001-0.002" forward and rearward play in the cylinder with the cylinder locked into the frame. There will likely be a tiny bit of rotational play in the cylinder when locked into the frame. Barrel-cylinder gap should be 0.003 to 0.010", odds are it will be 0.005 to 0.008". All of these clearances are necessary to allow the revolver to function correctly.

D Brown · #5 05-21-2020, 08:11 AM

It looks pretty good to me, but I'm not a gunsmith either.

I would verify that the end shake is within tolerances, then check for carry up.

Assuming both items check out O.K., I'd say you've got a nice shooter.

Did I mention that Model 28's are one of my favorite Smith & Wessons?

ETA: It generally goes without saying; but the gun should be checked for push off; this is generally checked during the initial examination, before any $$$ changes hands.

Hair Trigger · #6 05-21-2020, 09:00 AM

Looks good to me, also. On a well-used gun, the muzzle may show some bluing wear from the holster, you have the "normal" cylinder ring wear from the alignment pin, and looks like some cylinder bluing wear from being holstered. Before looking at anything else, check for "push-off"; if present, stay away from it and look elsewhere. To check, cock the pistol and then push the hammer spur forward with moderate pressure. If it stays cocked, you're good to go, if the hammer drops, the sear is worn.

Look under the top strap at the rear edge of the forcing cone for a very fine line. A revolver that has had years of magnum loads may show a bit of flame cutting, but it rarely is an issue, just an indication of heavy use.

To check the lockup, close the cylinder, draw the hammer to single action cock, and ride the hammer down as you pull and hold the trigger all the way back. With the hammer down and trigger held to the rear, wiggle the cylinder like you're trying to rotate it. It should not move more than imperceptibly, and while you have it that way, check the cylinder gap to the forcing cone. What is the SN# range? Numbers that start with an "S" are oldest; it will be either an "S" or "N" at the beginning of the number, which will be found on the bottom of the grip frame, or inside the frame at the base of the gantry.

Here's a really good video about disassembly of a S&W revolver, by a S&W trained armorer. He's using a Model 25 in the demo. It's pretty thorough, the video is over an hour but goes through all the parts and what to look for.

Nukewaste · #7 05-21-2020, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hair Trigger

Looks good to me, also. On a well-used gun, the muzzle may show some bluing wear from the holster, you have the "normal" cylinder ring wear from the alignment pin, and looks like some cylinder bluing wear from being holstered. Before looking at anything else, check for "push-off"; if present, stay away from it and look elsewhere. To check, cock the pistol and then push the hammer spur forward with moderate pressure. If it stays cocked, you're good to go, if the hammer drops, the sear is worn.

Look under the top strap at the rear edge of the forcing cone for a very fine line. A revolver that has had years of magnum loads may show a bit of flame cutting, but it rarely is an issue, just an indication of heavy use.

To check the lockup, close the cylinder, draw the hammer to single action cock, and ride the hammer down as you pull and hold the trigger all the way back. With the hammer down and trigger held to the rear, wiggle the cylinder like you're trying to rotate it. It should not move more than imperceptibly, and while you have it that way, check the cylinder gap to the forcing cone. What is the SN# range? Numbers that start with an "S" are oldest; it will be either an "S" or "N" at the beginning of the number, which will be found on the bottom of the grip frame, or inside the frame at the base of the gantry.

Here's a really good video about disassembly of a S&W revolver, by a S&W trained armorer. He's using a Model 25 in the demo. It's pretty thorough, the video is over an hour but goes through all the parts and what to look for.

YouTube

Understood. SN# listed is N565318

Also, I checked push off when I received the gun, one of the first things I do looking at used revolvers

. Worked fine.

I was curious: if a problem is encountered like that, couldn't you just replace the parts with new ones, similar to changing the grip? Would S&W cover replacement of the parts under warranty?

Nukewaste · #8 05-21-2020, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hair Trigger

Looks good to me, also. On a well-used gun, the muzzle may show some bluing wear from the holster, you have the "normal" cylinder ring wear from the alignment pin, and looks like some cylinder bluing wear from being holstered. Before looking at anything else, check for "push-off"; if present, stay away from it and look elsewhere. To check, cock the pistol and then push the hammer spur forward with moderate pressure. If it stays cocked, you're good to go, if the hammer drops, the sear is worn.

Look under the top strap at the rear edge of the forcing cone for a very fine line. A revolver that has had years of magnum loads may show a bit of flame cutting, but it rarely is an issue, just an indication of heavy use.

To check the lockup, close the cylinder, draw the hammer to single action cock, and ride the hammer down as you pull and hold the trigger all the way back. With the hammer down and trigger held to the rear, wiggle the cylinder like you're trying to rotate it. It should not move more than imperceptibly, and while you have it that way, check the cylinder gap to the forcing cone. What is the SN# range? Numbers that start with an "S" are oldest; it will be either an "S" or "N" at the beginning of the number, which will be found on the bottom of the grip frame, or inside the frame at the base of the gantry.

Here's a really good video about disassembly of a S&W revolver, by a S&W trained armorer. He's using a Model 25 in the demo. It's pretty thorough, the video is over an hour but goes through all the parts and what to look for.

YouTube

So, I just watched the attached vid. If there is at least one thing I learned, it's that I absolutely, positively know nothing. I appreciate the old-world craftsmanship.
Contacted a known 'smith in the area, and dropping off tomorrow

Nukewaste · #9 05-22-2020, 10:39 PM

Just an update:
Dropped off the 28 to a gunsmith today. I appreciated the old-world wisdom and knowledge he had. Very much excited. I'll be picking up gun in a couple of weeks. Pics when it comes

Nukewaste · #10 05-29-2020, 07:29 AM

So, just picked up the gun yesterday from the 'smith. According to him, after taking it apart and giving it a good look-see, he didn't see any issues. He said a little rust inside, which he cleaned up, but all in all, it should function fine.

I'm no expert by any means, but I have to admit, for about 40 yrs old, she's beautiful. Can't wait to try her out today.

stansdds · #11 05-29-2020, 07:55 AM

It takes just a little corrosion inside a revolver to induce function issues. Glad that your gunsmith is knowledgeable in the S&W revolvers and was able to give your Model 28 a good inspection, cleaning, and lubrication.

Babysitr · #12 05-29-2020, 08:10 AM

she's ready...looks like a used ready to use again N frame....a couple hundred .38's down range as a warmup are needed!