Hi. What is the length of a factory new extractor pin?

I need to know if all the pin fell out or if it broke in half?

The piece i found on the shooting bench is .200" long & .056" in diameter.

Is it a press fit into a blind hole?

Any tips on how to replace it, would help.

Thank you, 243winxb.

That is the whole pin you recovered. You can either lightly peen one end of the pin and then insert that end first to help it stay in place......or clean the cavity in the cylinder and the body of the pin to remove oils and use a very small amount of threadlocking material. Be sure to wipe the excess thredlocker off of the pin after it has been inserted and pushed into the cavity. High quality adhesive like JB Weld could also be used, but extreme care should be taken to clean the area after the pin is re-installed.

While the material is setting up, prop the extractor away from it's "at rest" position with a small spacer of some sort. This will keep the spring loaded extractor body from dropping down on the pin. As an alternative, you could also just disassemble the cylinder assembly during the repair.

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Repair failed.

Cleaned hole & pin with 91% Isopyl Alcohol. Blew out hole with air. Let dry for a day.

Applied threadlocker 242 in hole & on pin. Pushed pin in fully. Left to sit for 48 hours.

Pin came loose today shooting light loads.

Where did i go wrong? Should have peened pin, but could not get the extractor rod loose, to drive pin in.

Try threadlocker again?

I would clean with Acetone, Ketone, brake parts cleaner, or some kind of solvent that evaporates. Not carb cleaner, it leaves a residue. Then use Loctite 648 (green). Then your pin will stay in.

__________________
protocalldesign.com

Probably need to use something a bit stronger, like JB Weld, or another quality epoxy, for instance. The hole can become enlarged due to stresses during use.

The other alternative would be to make a pin using a slightly larger diameter host....like a drill bit shank. A number 53 drill would be .0595". Don't try to go too big or the pin will no longer interface properly with the hole in the extractor. (The hole in the extractor would have to be enlarged slightly to accommodate the new pin, which is OK )

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Another vote for Sleeve retainer Loctite..

Threadlocker is not a good choice..

If you guys are talking about a model 29 revolver; new extractor pins can be bought from Numrich less than $3, maybe the falling out pin has worn down.

If you are talking about an ejector pin on a model 29 revolver; please tell me where it is, I am always seeking more knowledge for my S&W revolver collection.

__________________
U.S. Coast Guard, retired CPO

extractor pins.
I even looked up the correct part name. Still got it wrong when putting it in print.

At age 75, should know .

Attached Images

20200617_195745.jpg (271.6 KB, 64 views)

I am not far behind you.

Don

__________________
U.S. Coast Guard, retired CPO

I know this thread is quite dated, but I found it helpful as I knew the diameter, but not length anywhere.

While searching my collection of Metal scraps I couldn’t find the correct size. I didn’t want to sacrifice one of my good letter drill bits. I finally found the EXACT diameter, a TIG rod, .059. Hope this helps others.

Mines for a retired 65-3 I’m restoring to use as a shooter for training youngsters. I’ve restored 2 model 10’s and model 64. For some reason the younger crowd are drawn to the revolvers as I think they’ve never seen them.