Howdy,

I'm sure this has been asked before and for some reason my search is not working...

I would like to know how to properly remove the burn rings of the cylinder face of my 586 pictured below, yea yea I know they are just gonna reappear when its shot next, but this is my purdy lady and I want her clean... she won't be shot for a while.

Any help and I would be greatfull, they don't look all that bad and I'm not just gonna leave them so the proper gentle route would be appreciated...

Thanks fellers
Erik

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This is the way....

I use my favorite solvent and a brass toothbrush. Apply solvent, let soak, use brush. Smile.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

A bronze or brass brush will remove crusty lead and powder deposits without any effect on the handgun finish. Actually works best when used dry, no solvents or other stuff, just cut through the crud and be done with it before proceeding with regular cleaning.

The hardest part of owning a Revolver is sometimes accepting the fact that once it is shot it will no longer be perfect! Normal wear and tear will occur on the cylinder's face, a turn line will appear on the rear of the cylinder, scratch marks will appear on the recoil shield and if carried on a routine basis, muzzle wear and other parts will show signs of slight abrasion.

All of this is just typical of owning, shooting and carrying a Revolver - no real way around it. The sooner the owner "accepts" these truths and realities, the happier they will be.

The only way to keep a Revolver in pristine condition is to turn it into a "safe queen" - which is not my personal style. Personally I accept the normal wear areas as....... normal and expected.

So as far as the carbon rings around the cylinders are concerned, clean them gently with a soft toothbrush and solvent and do NOT try to completely remove them every time after shooting because as soon as you shoot one bullet from the gun the next time, they will start coming back. The more you keep removing them the more you will wear off the bluing and scratching. Just make sure you do not have excess built up so rotation of the cylinder is impeded.

I am NOT saying you shouldn't clean the gun after every use - I always do, but don't get yourself crazy about normal occurrences on Revolvers that will always return every time it is shot.

I would not bother with trying to remove the burn rings.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

On a stainless steel revolver I use a Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth and they are gone in seconds. Some people will say I’m removing metal and doing more harm than good but I’ve been doing it this way for over 25 years and never had a problem. Also helps that I have enough revolvers that I rotate through that they only get cleaned 3 times a year, max.

But DON’T use them on blued revolvers. They will take the bluing right off. For a blued gun I do what I can with soaking them area and letting it sit overnight and then using a normal toothbrush. Only area I use a bronze brush is in the forcing cone. Just feel the bronze bristles are going to scratch the the gun. Someone will come along to tell me I’m wrong about that and maybe I am but I don’t chance it.

This is what I do (or did) followed up by Flitz and a toothbrush.
It really is just not worth doing. Just clean with solvent and let it be. It is what it is.


For the Flitz naysayers:

(Flitz is SAFE on factory blued finish, just don't over do it!)

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Still Running Against the Wind

To me burn rings are similar to turn lines. It is what happens when you actually use your revolver. Yes, you can completely remove them with considerable effort. Then as soon as you fire a cylinder full they are right back. The do no harm. I got better things to do than remove burn rings. Kind of like getting the little pebbles out of your tire treads.

The more frequently you remove the rings the sooner the bluing will be worn away. Regardless of what you use the bluing will have some wear, and eventually it will wear through.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244