What do you guys use as a starting position before torquing on an aftermarket heavy barrel on a non-pinned K frame.

Is the procedure the same for stainless and blue guns/barrels?

As an example the picture is marked to show center of frame vs the distance to the center of the barrel (hand tight).

Thanks

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I would consider 1/8 to 1/10th of a turn as nominal, if you have the proper tool/wrench and vise. This depends a lot on the condition of the lug shoulder and what type of barrel it is.....in my experience, they are all a bit different in terms of the proper starting point. With a plain bull barrel, (non slab sided) there is not as much consideration about proper indexing of the front sight, since the sight or rib is added later.

Considering the replacement factory barrel with a sight and front locking lug, alignment is much more critical. Non-pinned vs pinned factory barrels also present another variable that has to be considered. For me, the tighter (longer) the final draw is, the more difficult it is to achieve an exact final indexing point......or to remedy an unacceptable one.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Thanks for the response...

That seems a bit off clock, as in no way it will torque to 12:00. Facing the frame or barrel a little...like .003 or .004 and re-clock till its close to torque, Also ck your Cylinder to barrel gap...it changes when you cut the facing. You need .004+ gap.PS PLEASE DO NOT USE A PRY BAR ON A UN-SUPPORTED FRAME, it WILL Bend...been there done that, School of hard knocks.

I have a frame wrench and lathe. Since it's a slab side and don't have a 1.1 (28mm) collet can't chuck it up in my lathe, so I will need to face the frame (which I hesitate to do). Might need to rig up a 90 degree facing cutter for the frame.

8Shot.... Use caution with the frame facing I ended up over cutting the frame and the barrel over clocked and the Cylinder gap went bad. My Buds said I just paid 3 credit hours at the university of hard knocks. Schooling is expensive when your destroying stuff.... Didnt make that mistake again. Good Luck.

I agree...I'll locate a local machinist to work the barrel if need be. Do have another ordered (non stainless)...may index properly...

I use Dykem marking fluid to check the contact points prior to removing material. It's amazing sometimes how small the initial contact footprint actually is, and how little needs to be removed to move the starting point a bit.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Number one rule of fitting parts; Whenever possible do alterations to the less valuable, more easily replaced part. Besides, unless the face of the receiver is out of true, it should provide a reference to work to.

Froggie

Did that earlier and you are correct..the frame face has two small contact points, one a 9 and one a 3 on the outer perimeter. I could chuck up the slab barrel with my 4 jaw chuck...but probably would take me a few days to get it squared