|
|
07-07-2020, 12:13 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 241
Likes: 100
Liked 157 Times in 80 Posts
|
|
S&W K frame bull barrel indexing
What do you guys use as a starting position before torquing on an aftermarket heavy barrel on a non-pinned K frame.
Is the procedure the same for stainless and blue guns/barrels?
As an example the picture is marked to show center of frame vs the distance to the center of the barrel (hand tight).
Thanks
|
07-07-2020, 12:29 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Evansville, Indiana USA
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 483
Liked 11,387 Times in 3,520 Posts
|
|
I would consider 1/8 to 1/10th of a turn as nominal, if you have the proper tool/wrench and vise. This depends a lot on the condition of the lug shoulder and what type of barrel it is.....in my experience, they are all a bit different in terms of the proper starting point. With a plain bull barrel, (non slab sided) there is not as much consideration about proper indexing of the front sight, since the sight or rib is added later.
Considering the replacement factory barrel with a sight and front locking lug, alignment is much more critical. Non-pinned vs pinned factory barrels also present another variable that has to be considered. For me, the tighter (longer) the final draw is, the more difficult it is to achieve an exact final indexing point......or to remedy an unacceptable one.
__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer
Last edited by armorer951; 07-07-2020 at 01:24 PM.
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
07-07-2020, 01:10 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 241
Likes: 100
Liked 157 Times in 80 Posts
|
|
Thanks for the response...
|
07-07-2020, 01:18 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: nc
Posts: 662
Likes: 689
Liked 861 Times in 389 Posts
|
|
That seems a bit off clock, as in no way it will torque to 12:00. Facing the frame or barrel a little...like .003 or .004 and re-clock till its close to torque, Also ck your Cylinder to barrel gap...it changes when you cut the facing. You need .004+ gap.PS PLEASE DO NOT USE A PRY BAR ON A UN-SUPPORTED FRAME, it WILL Bend...been there done that, School of hard knocks.
Last edited by Mrnurse; 07-07-2020 at 01:20 PM.
Reason: add
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
07-07-2020, 01:56 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 241
Likes: 100
Liked 157 Times in 80 Posts
|
|
I have a frame wrench and lathe. Since it's a slab side and don't have a 1.1 (28mm) collet can't chuck it up in my lathe, so I will need to face the frame (which I hesitate to do). Might need to rig up a 90 degree facing cutter for the frame.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
07-07-2020, 02:07 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: nc
Posts: 662
Likes: 689
Liked 861 Times in 389 Posts
|
|
8Shot.... Use caution with the frame facing I ended up over cutting the frame and the barrel over clocked and the Cylinder gap went bad. My Buds said I just paid 3 credit hours at the university of hard knocks. Schooling is expensive when your destroying stuff.... Didnt make that mistake again. Good Luck.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
07-07-2020, 02:34 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 241
Likes: 100
Liked 157 Times in 80 Posts
|
|
I agree...I'll locate a local machinist to work the barrel if need be. Do have another ordered (non stainless)...may index properly...
|
07-07-2020, 02:53 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Evansville, Indiana USA
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 483
Liked 11,387 Times in 3,520 Posts
|
|
I use Dykem marking fluid to check the contact points prior to removing material. It's amazing sometimes how small the initial contact footprint actually is, and how little needs to be removed to move the starting point a bit.
__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer
|
The Following 5 Users Like Post:
|
|
07-07-2020, 03:00 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Central VA
Posts: 8,657
Likes: 1,569
Liked 9,425 Times in 4,224 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8shot
I agree...I'll locate a local machinist to work the barrel if need be. Do have another ordered (non stainless)...may index properly...
|
Number one rule of fitting parts; Whenever possible do alterations to the less valuable, more easily replaced part. Besides, unless the face of the receiver is out of true, it should provide a reference to work to.
Froggie
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
07-07-2020, 03:34 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 241
Likes: 100
Liked 157 Times in 80 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by armorer951
I use Dykem marking fluid to check the contact points prior to removing material. It's amazing sometimes how small the initial contact footprint actually is, and how little needs to be removed to move the starting point a bit.
|
Did that earlier and you are correct..the frame face has two small contact points, one a 9 and one a 3 on the outer perimeter. I could chuck up the slab barrel with my 4 jaw chuck...but probably would take me a few days to get it squared
|
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|