I grabbed a cheap 10-8 4" SB Smith because I want to use it as a base to learn more about working on revolvers. I want to cut it to RB, and bob the barrel to the end of the ejector rod housing.

What do you recommend to cut these with? Dremel, Grinder, hacksaw, something else? I don't expect this thing to look like Andy Horvath did it, but I'd just as soon it didn't come out like something from the Wile E. Coyote school of gunsmithing either.

Yes, I know, I'll never get back the money it costs to do this, and it would probably be smarter to just buy a 3" RB, but I want to expand my knowledge.

Thanks,

Michael

Professionally, most barrels are cut down mounted on a mandrel using a lathe. It comes out square and the muzzle crown contour is turned as the last step, polished and it's done.

But I've cut many barrels off with a hacksaw, because I didn't want to pull the barrel out of the gun for several different reasons. You can buy a barrel crowning tool to square it up and cut the muzzle crown. Or with a little practice file it square and file the crown contour. Then sand and polish.

But you should really shop for a book on general gun smithing. You'll learn a lot more. Check Amazon and if you decide on a book that looks good., search for it 2nd hand on ebay. Or just search for 'gunsmith kinks'. The old books give you lots of methods to do things w/o needing a lathe, milling machine, and a lot of other expensive machinery.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Michael,
For this 67 no dash, I used an old set of RB grips as a template and attacked the frame with a bench grinder, leaving it a bit proud, then smoothed it and contoured the edges with a file. Both the front and back of the grip frame must be taken down, including the hammer spring strain screw. A checkering file from Brownells was used to recut the backstrap serrations. I did not finely finish the frontstrap, as it would be hidden under the Hogue Bantam grip. The serial number remained unmolested and entirely visible. The result is a Smith collector’s nightmare, but also a slightly more compact, easier to carry, and nimble handling 4” 38 Special.
Good luck,
Steve

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CA is a great state to be FROM

i have used both hacksaws + angle grinders - i use a old tubing cutter to mark cut line on barrel - true up with file if needed after cutting - crown with brass ball + valve grinding compound - go slow + it will work out fine for you -

I cut em off with a bandsaw, then put them in a lathe nd true them up and profile. But, you could use a file and a ball. Before you go to valve grinding compound work your way through finer grits of emery cloth wrapped on the ball'

Round butt. First check that serial number will survive in tact. Then install round butt grips and scribe a line on both sides of the frame. If you don't have a good scribe any good hard steel ground to a point will work. The tip of a file handle ground to a sharp point, heated bright red and then dunked in water will be very hard. Grind close and finish with finer and finer paper.

Like Steelslaver said, make sure the RB modification does not in any way alter the serial number on the butt. With S&W revolvers, the serial number recognized by the BATF is on the butt, not the one stamped in the crane recess.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Go slow and control your heat. For cutting a barrel a good true running bandsaw will work fine. Clamp your work and spritz the cut line with water from a spray bottle. A pneumatic right angle die grinder like a Dotco and various grit sanding discs and scotchbrite pads is a good tool for shaping and blending, but definitely practice on scrap first.

If you want the gun to shoot a group, you need to crown the muzzle with a piloted cutter to make the crown concentric to the bore. If you want to do the ball and valve grinding compound after that, you will be OK, it will follow what is already there. Without the piloted cutter, or a lathe, the crown is likely to be off center.

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protocalldesign.com

never had to use a piloted cutter + have many sub MOA rifles that ii have used the ball method on - if you are careful using it any round ball will center itself in any almost round hole -

If the end is not accurately perpendicular to the bore, as in cut off with a hacksaw and filed down, the ball will drift to the low side and be off center. Quality work CAN be done with hand tools, but oftentimes is not. I suspect the rifle barrels were cut true on a lathe to begin with. Many S&W revolver barrels are crowned off center from the factory. The ball method will follow the crown, wherever it is.

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protocalldesign.com

I cut rifle and pistol barrels with good hack saw, with wide blade. Draw file and crown in drill press. Shotgun barrels have dedicated Rigid pipe cutter and draw file and crown with hard stone ball grinder, just enough to relieve any muzzle burrs.

see my post #4 - i stated to true before crowning - if the ball is rotated evenly while spinning it will be centered - you do not need a centered pilot , there are are less costly was to true a cut in any barrel -