Don't want to start a debate here, but what have you guys found to be the best bore cleaner to use for minor leading? I'm talking .38 use in .357's...I usually clean after every range trip or two, been using Hoppes #9, maybe I'm not leaving it sit long enough? just want something to use before I run the Lewis thru them...Experience is a wonderful thing!!!! what say you??

Kroil is what has been my go-to for soaking barrels that have had cast boolits through them, whether handguns or rifles. I just cleaned up my K38 last night after soaking it for several hours in Kroil. It has a distinctive odor to it...


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"It has a distinctive odor to it..."

Man that's an understatement.

I tried using Kroil in an automotive parts cleaning tank for a soaking/cleaning station for AR's and an MP5 in my garage (I bought 15 gallons). The smell almost got me evicted from the house by the wife. Don't get me wrong I love how well Kroil works, but I wouldn't plan on setting up on the wife's dining room table or anywhere else in the house and expect to get many compliments.

I mix 10% Kroil with Shooter's Choice solvent (Carb cleaner works too) for a solvent for removing copper fouling from rifles primarily. For handguns I just use either that or Hoppe's Number 9 with a good quality brass brush to remove any leading, if any.

If your bore is badly leaded, a Lewis Lead Remover is the ticket and it scrubs leading out fast without any damage to the bore.

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Keep your powder dry.

Lewis Lead Remover - period! If you feel the need, Hoppes 9 and a bronze bore brush following the LLR.

Good advice. Only one of mine that sees much lead is my 1100 used for Trap shooting. Hoppes and my brush or Bore Snake works well if done frequently.

Also picked up some 'pipe screens' [email protected] to use with my lewis when needed. Use coated bullets with my .38 S&W loadings. Lead no a problem so far. 1917 might be another story.

Another vote for Kroil. For cleaning barrels I used 2 parts Shooters Choice with 1 part Kroil. This has worked for me for a long time.

I've used JB bore cleaner for years. It works!

As for solvents : Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
Brownell's sells it or you can buy the ingredients at Wally Mart and mix a gallon for $20.00 .
Search the term : Ed's Red Bore Cleaner recipe , several links will pop up , download instructions and keep for future reference...Great Stuff!
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Lewis Lead Remover works great and does not damage steel. You can make a poor man's Lewis Lead Remover by wrapping strands of pure copper Choir Boy (not the copper plated steel wool found in other scouring pads) around a bronze bore brush.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Other than the old and dangerous method of using mercury, I always found the Lewis Lead Remover to be the easiest way to remove lead.

+1 on the pure copper chore boy strands

I don't use solvents to remove any lead in a barrel . I go to Walmart / Ace Hdwe stores etc and buy the " 100 % pure copper Chore Boy " . Make sure it's the one that says " 100% " . It's a pure copper scouring pad . I cut a little pad , wrap it around a wore out bore brush . In only a few passes in a barrel, lead is gone . Try it , you will agree . Regards Paul

I've found that the copper Chore Boy to work best of anything. Even better then the Lewis.

I just ordered 15 chore boy pads from eBay. No stores I’ve found stock it. I’m not messing around with lead anymore trying to dissolve it with solvents

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-Matt

It can be difficult to find pure copper scrubbing pads or bronze wool these days. Why? Meth and crack smokers. They put Chore Boy or bronze wool in their pipes to keep the meth or crack anchored in place. They are now starting to use brass screen pipe filters and faucet aerators. As these products become more popular with drug abusers, stores either cannot keep them on the shelves or they stop stocking them to dissuade the drug abusers.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

15 pads, that should last you a long time.

Best method I have found is a good bronze bore brush used dry (no solvent) as the first step in cleaning the chambers and bore. Cuts right through any deposits, powder fouling or lead transfer. Then go ahead with the usual cleaning procedure, solvent, patches, etc.

I've been buying my bore brushes by the dozen for decades. A new one works great for several uses, then starts to wear down. You might pay $3 for a single bore brush, or you can get a dozen for less than $20 and be set for a long time.

KROIL is my "go-to" for all such occasions.

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John

If you're in a hurry, the mechanical methods will work, for sure. Personally, I use Hoppe's #9, and let it soak overnight. My stash is from the 80's, so I have no idea if the formula is the same as today's product. However I can say that after a 24 hour soak, the lead comes out like strips of cellophane tape with a gentle brushing. Most people don't have the patience to let a solvent soak. I do, and it works.

Lou

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NRA Certified Instructor & RSO

I use a stainless steel Tornado Brush for stubborn lead. Some people believe that a stainless steel brush can scratch a bore but I have been using the Tornado type for years with no evidence of scratches or any other damage.

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"In God We Trust"

Stainless tornado brushes work and do no harm... unless that stainless wire fractures. I tried them years ago, decided they were not worth the risk and I did not find them to be superior to copper Chore Boy or a Lewis Lead Remover.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

I'm not a fan of using a steel brush on any gun.

I'm confident that the stainless steel used in a Tornado brush is softer than the steel in my gun barrels but everyone has their own opinions and preferences.

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"In God We Trust"

Not many "solvents" will actually dissolve lead ...many solvents act like penetrating oils and will get up under the lead making it easier to brush out and one of the best penetrating oils is a 50/50 mix of standard General Motors Automatic Transmission Fluid (not synthetic) and acetone .
Let the penetrating oil work for a few hours to get under the lead and it makes removal with a bore brush so much easier.
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

That's just it, solvents will not dissolve lead. Penetrants can work their way through pores and fractures in the lead and make it easier to dislodge the lead.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

They got a real bad rep when they first came out. Deserved or not I cant say- However, when cleaning some things out awhile back I came across a couple and tossed them. A LOT of guns are ruined by improper cleaning. Funny thing, the Victory era guns were only supplied with a rod 'solid' and no brushes I know of but then the are a lot of things I dont know.. Anyway I just don't and wont use them. Just me.

Diesel is the best bore solvent I've ever found and makes bluing look great too. I keep a small plastic tub and bathe my Smiths in it.

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Where we go one, we go all

Diesel and kerosene are both old gunsmith school stand-by's .
Both are very good to long soak rusty anything , gun parts , tools whatever ... I found a lump or rusty dirt in the back yard , after knocking all the dirt off I had some rusted solid side cutters , a long soak in kerosene (but diesel would have worked too) and they began moving , more soaking and they loosened up and I'm still using them .
Diesel and Kerosene ...old but still good penetrating oils and rust soakers !

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Back in the olden days, people would use mercury to remove lead... That practice is kind of frowned upon now though.

The easiest and most foolproof way to remove lead from a gun is the Lewis, which is available from Brownells. It works to mechanically remove the lead, won't harm your gun, and will keep the use of chemicals to a minimum.

Another thing I do is change the bore brush often. I see more people using an old brush that isn't really doing much of anything.

I was brought a S&W 686 that had a barrel that was leaded so bad I could not see rifling. Solvent, bore brush and Lewis Lead remover took care of it. This was some of the first that came out next to a 22 shell for size.

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SWCA 1932 SWHF 135

I use either brake or carb cleaner. Works very well and also cleans the mechanisms of my autos without having to take them apart. Just be sure to take off the grips beforehand.