The "original CLP" and bore cleaning solvent!
These were my Fathers, when he passed I inherited all his quality tools ans assorted "stuff"
Read the label on the middle one. I wonder how all the guns in the World survived before all the snake oil products of today?
Cleaning a gun is not rocket science,most of the work in the barrel is done with a NEW bore brush and some patches with a solvent then oil. The rest of the working parts can be cleaned with a "solvent" real mineral spirits (not the odorless stuff" and then some oil. Heck use Blaster, Liquid Wrench whatever as a "solvent" There are NO products that truly "dissolve" lead.(except an acid) A few will act on copper. Most of it is removed by mechanical means (a bore brush) When a product says apply product and scrub the bore 8-10 times, What is doing the cleaning?? The BRUSH!



There is no "magic"





Edit the darn pictures did not stay??

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Still Running Against the Wind

Being also a blackpowder shooter. I can tell you my cleaniest guns were cleaned with soapy hot water.



Edit. By the way you botched your picture attachment.

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Expect the unexpected

Mercury will dissolve lead but that brings a whole bunch of other more serious issues.

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I told you not to use Lifebuoy

Back to the basics, solvent and mineral oil. If people would only use the stuff. More damage has been done to firearms by neglect than anything else. Most of the petroleum based cleaners and "snake oil" products are just re-branded mineral oil bases.

As an example, the current Hoppe's #9 "solvent" is basically a mixture of kerosene (30-60%) , some alcohol compounds (mostly ethanol) and a bit of ammonium hydroxide. Too bad, but they apparently removed the isoamyl acetate, or "banana oil", which contributed to the product's distinctive smell.

This is just a bit of attention and some elbow grease....it's not rocket science.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Mercury creates a chemical bond with lead it does not dissolve.

Randy

Fixed OP added pictures

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Still Running Against the Wind

Try something NEW

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We used LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms) quite successfully to clean weapons back in the dark ages. Lots of brushing and scrubbing, but could get them clean enough to pass the most picky of inspections.

Looked kind of sideways when CLP was introduced to replace LSA, but guess what? It also worked with the same amount of brushing and scrubbing.

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Only a cold warrior

Interesting to see the aerosol can of WD-40 there... I keep a can with my cleaning stuff too, and especially to go to the range and there may be rain involved. The name on the can stands for “Water Displacement/Displacing Formula #40.” It does a good job for that very thing and is really good for keeping the metal safe until I can actually clean and oil it. It is really a mediocre cleaning solvent in my experience, but will work in a pinch.

Froggie

I take good care of my firearms and myself and try not to expose either to anything too harsh. The primary purpose of my firearms is to care of me, not the other way around. I’m not committed to any one cleaner at this time, but try to stick with stuff that’s as non-toxic as I can get to the best of my knowledge. Oil for me is nothing but straight mineral oil, which is about as cheap as you’ll get. I see no need for anything harsher. The old Hoppe’s #9 oil in the orange bottle is just plain mineral oil, but you’ll have a hard time convincing folks of that who have used it years.

IMHO:

One needs nothing more than these.....

1) Hoppes #9 Solvent

2) Breakfree CLP

3) Rig #2 Oil (CLP)

4) Rig Universal Grease (best long term rust preventative)

Where I grew up, 3 in 1 was a standard around the shop & home and Hoppes #9 & Hoppes Gun Oil was what you used on guns. Always seemed to work great.


MARKETING, MARKETING, MARKETING!!!!

I can't prove it, but I would bet that more damage has been done to firearms by cleaning than by anything else. That and Dremel tools.

CLP ... good stuff. Have some Slick 50 that also works extremely well. Also have used ATF fluid with good results. Sincerely. bruce.

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<><

Just for the record, I use #9 and BreakFree CLP , for really dirty I blast it first with the deadly Red Can BrakeClean followed by the CLP
Also have a can of Shooters Choice Polymer safe spray for plastic guns.


For oil, plain old Synthetic 10w-30 works fine.


Amazing how car engines can run thousands of miles at high RPMs on the stuff, but a seems to require some $20 an oz magic fluid.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Don't fall into the trap of the anti-gun people: just like guns don't kill people, Dremel tools don't damage firearms. You mean inexperienced Dremel tool users damage firearms.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

It's pretty remarkable what motor oil, lithium grease, gear oil, and moly bearing grease can do, and for dirt cheap. Some decades ago, people figured out that gun folks will pay 50X the bulk price if it's just marketed to them as a wonderful time saver/miracle chemical.

I used to lube M2HB machineguns with 90w gear oil, worked great. Smoked a bit, but didn't burn away like CLP.

I don't do much with 3-in-1 and guns, but plenty with other tools.

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Psalm 27:2

I'm of the notion that there have been advancements in the world of oils and lubricants in the last 100 years or so and I try and capitalize on those advancements when possible.

I prefer the peace of mind that the gun products I use will satisfactorily clean, lubricate and protect my firearms with as little effort as possible while not removing or marring the finish on the metal or wood or otherwise fail to protect or even invite rust, mildew, discoloration or anything that might be 'bad' for my guns.

Products not marketed specifically for firearms may be fine as well as some home made concoctions but those aren't for me. Protecting my investments with the best I can afford is my philosophy, not only for my guns but also for my vehicles, home, property and everything else that I own.

I'm not saying the someone else's way is wrong, it just isn't my way.

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"In God We Trust"

No, it's not rocket science, but not all legitimate gun care products are "snake oil." Are they absolutely necessary? Probably not. Plenty of alternatives. But there's nothing wrong with using them, either. They'll get the job done. To me, "snake oil" implies a product advertised as doing something it doesn't or being something it isn't. Like selling vegetable oil as a gun lube...*ahem*

I've used Break Free CLP for years, off-and-on, since the 90s, and it works very well. Tried other stuff, all of which worked well. I've used Tetra Gun oil and grease, but got away from that after reading about it developing mold if left to sit. Gun Butter oil has worked well for me. Been wanting to move to non-toxic products for a while, and finally switched to MPro7 for cleaning and Lubriplate for lube/rust prevention. Sor far, no complaints from me.

Here's a good article on lubrication:

Lubrication 101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to tell the difference. - www.GrantCunningham.com www.GrantCunningham.com

Thanks for the link. I just ordered the lubrikit to care for my K38s


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Just always loved the smell of 3&1 oil, long before I knew about HOOPES.

I will add good old Lubriplate grease to the list, for hinge pins etc.

Gear lube has some pretty good extreme pressure lubricant additives in it. No reason not to use it.

Remember the little plastic bottle ?? "Weapons oil, medium." For our M-16's I used that stuff for years. It was great. LSA... Oh the memories.