Looking for recommendations for removing rust from a Pre Model 10. It was possibly a Police Issue. Most of the bluing is worn off one side of the cylinder after being holstered. Externally there is very little if any surface rust (light). However after removing the grips the inside of the frame has what appears to be surface rust (no observably pitting). Prefer not to try and remove the sideplate. I have read that soaking the entire revolver in ATF or Kroll Oil will dissolve the surface rust. I assume if this indeed works that it would then require spraying with something like Gun Scrubber and then oiled with something like Rem Oil. I would love to hear your ideas especially real world experience.

Thank you,

rick

The mixture may well remove rust, but that process did not magically just dissolve it for me. I have always had to use oil soaked bronze wool, and sometimes hard bristle toothbrush, to get the job done. The bronze wool should not remove the bluing, but will cut the rust. Make sure you keep the gun protected with wax and/or oil and no further damage should occur. What were your stocks made of?

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Gary the stocks are the original wood...worn pretty smooth on the holstered side. The rust I am talking about is internal visible with the grips removed...thank you sir !

rick

Soak the rust in oil -- WD40, RemOil, what have you. After a brief soak, use the mouth of a spent cartridge case to scrape away the rust. It will leave a smear of brass that will wipe right off, but will not harm the bluing.

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Pisgah

IF you need serious scrubbing of rust try copper pads (like Chore Boy)

Found in most every grocery store, CHEAP, in stock, and no shipping charges.

Have used them for many years, still waiting for the first scratch.

When "cleaning" rust speckled items (most often shotguns) I use a copper pad with common 30 weight motor oil. The more expensive gun oil is used AFTER the clean-up is finished.

Must admit that the copper pads do not last too long. They tend to fall apart, breaking into smaller pieces with use. But, these small pieces are great for SCRUBBING the bore of a shotgun barrel. Yes, many of the shotguns coming my way are FILTHY ...

Bekeart

A great suggestion. The only additional caution is to look for copper pads that are not just "copper coated." I made that mistake once, thinking I was getting a "bargain." They work fine on the barbecue grille, but not recommended for blued guns.

I have had no problem with Chore Boy pads falling apart. I have one pad I have used for years, still works. Regarding a "solvent" for rust, about anything works with the pad - bore cleaner, light machine oil, kerosene, motor oil, etc. - whatever is handy. I have on occasion used brass bore brushes instead of Chore Boy pads for rust removal. Shotgun bore brushes work well, as do .45 brushes. Smaller brushes are harder to hang onto.

It depends on how patient you are.

The best and simplest is 50/50 ATF & Acetone in a sealed container that is agitated! Like setting the container on top of, or in a case polishing tumbler if you have one. Plan at least a week before checking the progress. It will remove rust down to bright metal w/o harming the remaining bluing when done correctly as I suggested above.

Any of the laborious physical methods will not help the innards if you don't want to remove the side plate and disassemble the action parts.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner : Sports & Outdoors - Amazon.com

Do a search for this. It's more aggressive than than bronze wool but still won't hurt the bluing. I had a couple with rust blooms. I used CLP and these pads. I would lightly rub with the pad, then use my finger to feel for smooth steel. If I felt any surface rust, I would scrub some more.
As mentioned, scraping with a brass cartridge case works. So does using a pre-1982 pure copper penny.
If you use bronze wool (works too, but takes more time on thicker rust), make sure you use a magnet to ensure it's not just bronze plated steel.
With patience, you can significantly improve the look of a rusty gun.
Good luck!

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Chris
SWCA #2243 SWHF #292

Thankfully I've never had too many guns that had rust on them but when I did, I used 0000 steel wool and gun oil to remove it. Now all the conventional wisdom say not to use steel wool because the tiny fine particles left over from the wool will cause the metal to rust yet again. Thankfully I never had that problem as I always made sure to get all the fine particle off by soaking in a bowl of Hoppes 9 and using a toothbrush to get everything off, but the basic accepted method today is to use Bronze or Copper Wool and err on the side of caution. I can't really argue with that theory.

I've successfully used a citric acid solution to remove rust. Light surface rust is removed in an hour or two depending on the strength of the solution, heavy rust takes hours and hours. Sonication speeds up the task, but is not necessary. Citric acid is a fairly mild acid that won't corrode most metals, is safe (use eye protection) and environmentally friendly. It won't damage most finishes, but I've not used it on a blued surface.

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Μολὼν λαβέ
NRA Life Member

one of a gazillion videos
You do not need to "soak" with exotic products use some solvent, oil, CLP and some super fine steel wool (or the synthetic kind of 3M pad)

More serious rust requires more serious technique.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I've used steel wool, copper pennies, copper scrubbing pads, bronze brushes. Steel wool works best on light surface rust. Copper pennies work on any rust without harming bluing. Any rust worse than surface rust is going to result in lost bluing.

Chore Boy is good, BUT make sure you get the pure copper ones.
There are copper-plated steel pads out there and you don't want those.
They will damage the bluing.
Test the pad with a magnet if you aren't 100% sure it is pure copper.

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Send lawyers, guns & money...

Hard to find copper pennies now,they are made of zinc.

Prior to half way through 1983, they are pure copper. Surprisingly they turn up regularly in change.

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Chris
SWCA #2243 SWHF #292

Any acid soln will remove the bluing.
Even the weakest of them.

Common foods like ketchup & fruit juices have acetic acid in them and that will remove blued finishes.
CocaCola will remove it the same way as it has Phosphoric acid in it.
Yes they will also disolve rust for you,,but bluing is a form of rust (iron oxide) so that goes away with it as well.

So in this instance you want to get rid of the red iron oxide (red rust) and preserve the bluing.

I know the use of very fine steel wool is frowned upon now, but it's been an acceptable way for probably 100 yrs or more. Ever since extra fine steel wool has been around, when ever that came to be?

Used with very light pressure and with oil or kero, or even soapy water, the combination will remove very light rust speckleing from blued surfaces without damaging the blue.

If you do scratch the bluing doing this, you're rubbing way too hard,,more than needed to remove the rust,,and/or you're not using any or not enough oil along with it.

Rust bluing,,even the mirror bright style on Purdey and H&H shotgun bbls is accomplished with dry 0000 steel wood as a carding material for the first couple of cycles. After that plain denim or burlap are used and then flannel for carding.
Water is often used during those carding passes for lube.

Same is done on damascus finishing of bbl.
0000 Steel Wool is used under running water after the bbls are run through the etch to then remove the loosened oxide from the harder steel portion of the composite bbl matrl and yet leave it in tact on the softer iron strips and bands.

Copper or brass 'wool' also works of course. But ultra fine steel wool is not the evil product it's made out to be.
I don't know why it's gotten that bad rap lately.

..maybe people looking for a miracle fix on a rusted piece of gun metal.
There's is only so much you can do once rusting has set in after all..