I see their barrel less model 10"s are now $180.00
vs the $150.00 they had been. That's still a decent
price but not for me.

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never get out of the boat

I see these as being good for the amateur gunsmith who may already have spare parts on hand necessary to return these revolvers to full functional status. If you have to hire a gunsmith to obtain and assemble all the parts, then it will likely save little money over buying a well used, but usable S&W Model 10.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

I bought one of them a few months ago. I put a 4” pencil barrel I already had off a 10-5 on it. Bought a couple of center pins before I found one that fit.

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Where we go one, we go all

I bought one because I already had a 4 inch heavy barrel and spare cylinder from a different project. It worked good, wound up being a good shooter

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-Matt

So where do you buy barrels?

I've got about $300 total in mine, after buying a barrel, front lock parts and having a 'smith install the barrel. I bobbed the hammer and did some light action work myself. Pacs came out of the 'grips box'.

I haven't seen an equivalent S&W for sale here in AZ for anywhere near $300 for quite some time.



If they've raised the price, I'm glad I bought 2...

I found mine here on the forum.

There are also usually plenty for sale on the usual auction sites and even eBay. New barrels in some configurations are still out there as well.

I've been looking for a 3" barrel for #2, but will probably end up with a 4" and have it cut down.

Are you allowed to link to these? Is the cylinder included or what parts are necessary to make a functioning gun out of it? Would be cool to make a .357 mag Model 10 snub nose.

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SWCA 3563
10mm aficionado

I'd make it a 2 1/2" and keep the full length ejector stroke.......

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dd884
JMHO-YMMV

I don't know about the link, but if you look up J&G Sales in Prescott, AZ you shouldn't have any trouble finding these.

They have everything except the barrel... these were foreign police guns and IIRC, the importation rules prohibit these from coming back in with the original 2" barrels as complete guns, so the barrels are removed. Silly, since they were manufactured here...

Not totally useless. At one time in the South West, especially in Hispanic communities. it was not uncommon to come across a Colt SAA that had the barrel and ejector removed. They made handy close range CCW guns.

I snapped a pic of mine outside today. It’s rough but it shoots better than some nice looking guns I’ve had in the past. Hard not to be proud of one you put together yourself

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-Matt

The ultimate smooth bore revolver... no bore at all!

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

I have to wonder what the velocity would be of say a 38 special fired out of just a cylinder, no barrel. Obviously the bullet would tumble, but would it be enough to inflict any damage?

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-Matt

A tumbling bullet penetrates less, but does more damage.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Barrels can be found at apexgunparts.com They have a 4" with Parker Hale sight for @30 bucks and a 5" for 5 bucks more. The 5" barrels are marked .38 s&w but if you don't say anything to your bullets, they won't even notice the .38 special difference.

When I was in the police academy (reserves, not regulars), the range officer started off with a barrelless and stockless M10. He said (jokingly) OK, you can see I have this fancy target gun with long barrel and best target sights (fingers in the air in front of gun) and special custom target grips (bare steel grip frame).

At 7 yards he shot 6 shots on a B-27 target (what we would qualify on) and had them all in the 9 ring or better. No barrel, no grip panels.

Then he told us "If I can do that with this, all of you can qualify with what you have!" All of us had a complete gun with a barrel and grips. We all qualified.

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protocalldesign.com

I love it!

I've used a lot of unorthodox demonstrations over the years to make a point on the range, but never quite like that!

So can a 4” barrel be used and the cylinder & ejector stay in the gun and be used? I have a couple model 15 barrels that I can use, Larry

You will need a full length ejector rod and the associated parts.

A model 15 (light contour, adj. sights) has a barrel contour that is different on top, and it will not quite match up with the fixed sight frame. It will mount up just the same as any other K frame barrel.

I bought one to make into a 357 with a model 13 barrel and a model 19 cylinder. Then I ended up with a python barrel and I was going to make a smolt. While waiting for the K frame barrel die I misplaced the python barrel so I put a 4" heavy barrel on the one I had and ordered 2 more frames. The python barrel will show up although I have turned my shop upside down. Know I put it some where safe LOL Maybe I should empty the safes.

I would love to build a Smolt (always wanted one back in the day), but Python barrel prices are nuts. I'm also not sure how many 'smiths are out there that still know how to do it.

One would think that someday an importer will be selling 2 inch barrels on the surplus market. Somebody is bound to purchase all those take-off barrels.

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Kevin in Oregon

The absolute cheapest option I have found for a barrel is from Sarco. They are 18 dollars delivered.

So far I have made up a 38 special with a 4" heavy barrel and a 4" 357 Pinto using a nickel model 13 or 19 recessed cylinder and what was supposed to be a nickel model 13 barrel , but isuspectis actually polished stainless. A shooter 38 for less than $250, a $357 for less than 350

Now, if I could only find that 4" Python barrel, Mill the 3rd frame for sights. fit a blued model 19 recessed cylinder and a ball lock on the yoke. I could have a 4" 357 Smolt for les than $300

This opens up one of the problems I am having. Making something interesting but using expensive and valuable parts. I am afraid that installing the expensive parts and making a custom will have less value as a whole than the parts would be.

I was considering making a 4" fixed sight 22 jet or maybe a 3" fixed sight 22Hornet K-Chuk style. If I used the orginal jet parts the gun wont have much value but the parts will be used up.

I am leaning toward making a 357 2 1/2" fixed sight, nice carry gun, less expensive parts.

I keep going round and round with this...


Heres what I did with one of them, not done yet. It will get a rail and a Ceracoat type finish or some sort. It does shoot well so far, I gave it a try...

I just got mine back from gunsmith today. I had him put an older 2" pinned barrel on and changed the hammer to a target hammer. I like the looks, and was considering getting it cerracoted, but this smith over in Medford, Or. quoated $160 for cerracote and $120 for blueing, so some considerations to make. I'll check locally.

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Kevin in Oregon

Cerakote is a bad move on a revolver, the turn ring just devours even the best job. If he'll do it for 160 and warranty it I say buy it, you'll be back to see him every 300 rounds.

Cerakote, Gunkote, whateverkote tends to not work as well on revolvers due to that cylinder stop dragged and gouging the coating on the cylinder. Cheapest professional refinish I would consider for a beater revolver would be parkerizing.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

I bought 2 of the J&G barrel less bargains at $150. I put a 4" Model 64 heavy barrel and ejector rod on one and a 2" barrel on the other. The grips were junk. I took them off and put round butt Packs on them. I don't have $250 in either of them. They are both good shooters. I stashied one in the truck and one at the cabin on the lake. I am always armed but some of my family don't carry.

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SWCA 3417 HF 642 NRA-TC

AlHillahoif3, The smith did say that the blueing would hold up better than the Cerakote, it was less expensive than the Cerakote. I had not thought about parkerizing, which a black would look nice, I think ? The turn line doesn't look too bad on my Victory revolver, which I plink with quite a bit. Maybe a bead blast then blue would eliminate a poor polishing job. We don't really have a smith locally that does blueing, ours passed away last year. I'll have to do some more research. Thanks for the feed back.

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Kevin in Oregon

Does anyone know where these were imported from?

IIRC, they are Malaysian Police guns.

Yesterday while getting some stuff ready to go to the range a small box showed up with the python barrel. It now has K frame threads. I goes past time about 20 degrees ao I have to work with it to get it timed. Also the pythons shroud is to skinny for a smith ejector rod, so that will need opened up and the back of the python rib is considerably high. I will deal with that when I mill the frame for sights.

Shot a bunch of rounds yesterday through the frame I fitted a nickel 13 barrel and nickel recessed 357 cylinder on. Shoots a few inches low at 25 yds with 158 gran magnums. The one I stuck a heavy 38 special barrel on is also low with 158 gr 38 SWC. Pretty normal for me and fix sight guns. Both functioned flawleslly