I've got a bunch of all 3 gens of S&W pistols. They all have decent factory triggers. 11#ish DA and 4-5# SA. I'm not complaining.

But I wouldn't mind if they were a bit smoother and a bit lighter. So I'm wondering if anyone knows of an internet video or some other illustrated lesson on how to do a "trigger job" (whatever that means). I'm talking about a bit of polishing and smoothing out, nothing radical, not taking anything off a sear, not changing the geometry of any of the parts, just perhaps a bit of a polish.

I'm modestly handy and I have a big plastic bag for the parts to bring to my regular smith if I screw up.

Is this something to try at my bench, or is it best left to the professionals?

disassembly of s&w 3rd generation - Bing video This should get you to the you tube video by blubelly2. He has 4 videos on taking apart and re-assembling 3rd Gen Smiths. It also shows you how to smooth them out. I did a 3953 and a 4566TSW and both came in at 2-3lbs less trigger pull and a whole lot smoother trigger. Hope this helps.

This guy has a series of 3rd Gen videos. Well done vids, with lots of
info.

The biggest issue I can see with attempts at "unnecessary" tweeking of these older generation pistols is that they have been out of production for many years, some for more than twenty years. Consequently, spare parts have become hard to find, some of them impossible to find. Many users are relegated to purchasing a "donor" gun to supply replacement parts. The point is, if errors are made during "modification", new OEM spare parts may no longer be available.

The other associated problem is that modification or alteration of springs and other internal, factory set tensioning requirements may sometimes compromise the original design to the extent that the gun is actually harmed by the changes. While the action may be "improved" from the shooter's perspective, that gun's life may actually be shortened.

My experience with this particular series of military/police pistols is that there are a few minor modifications that can be made to improve function, but there is a tipping point, where changes can cause harm both in terms of longevity of service and proper function. My feeling is that it's best to leave them "stock" in terms of spring tension and parts modification, while keeping them clean and well maintained/lubricated.... and just shoot and enjoy them.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

I think one of the big issues with the older pistol was the quality of machining of those forged steel fire control components. With a fresh cutter, you got fairly smooth surfaces, but as the cutters wear and chip, you got rougher surfaces which translates into a gritty trigger pull.


MIM parts, as much as many seem to hate them, have smoother and more uniform surfaces, the result is the late production 3rd gen pistols had much nicer trigger pulls.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

This is the series of videos I watched before working on my 1066. My finish looked horrible so I completely refinished mine inside and out.
WARNING: This gun has a gazillion parts when broken down, so don't even attempt it if you're not good at tearing a gun completely apart 100%.
I polished all the internals that touched anything else that moved, then replaced all my springs with lighter Wolf springs and the end result is just short of amazing! To finish it off, I replaced the bobbed hammer with a spurred one from a 4506. It now has the slickest, smoothest action I've ever felt on a DA/SA. Pulling the trigger in DA, peering down the sight rail, the front sight doesn't even waiver off the center of the back sights from side to side it's so smooth and easy is the best way I can describe it!
Here's a photo of the finished work, unfortunately, you're not able to feel the trigger.

Attached Images

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	IMG_20140215_125322_334.jpg (107.1 KB, 40 views)
	IMG_20140123_132825_446.jpg (63.1 KB, 41 views)
	IMG_20140123_132525_368.jpg (89.5 KB, 37 views)

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Dave Ramsey Cultist

Another word of caution, if you are smoothing and polishing the hammer and sear, do not mess with the hammer hook and sear engagement surfaces unless you have the proper tools, knowledge and skills. A surprise full auto pistol is not fun.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

What he said, never touch the fire controls at all unless you know exactly what you're doing.

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Dave Ramsey Cultist

Adding to what Armorer951 noted above, the listed minimum safe single action pull was 4.5 lbs,IIRC. If your triggers are going 4-5 lbs scale weighed, you'd best leave well enough alone.

Smooth can be another issue. You might first try a really, really good cleaning to remove any "stuff" that's not supposed to be there. Then there's the approach where one gently polishes friction points: sides and possibly bottom of the drawbar, sides of the sear, hammer and trigger. Possibly check for burrs inside the bore for the trigger return spring. That sounds simple, but recall the lack of easily found replacement parts and the necessary specialty tools that some of us have (like the widget to deburr the trigger return spring bore). In the long run, if you just gotta do something, paying someone who knows what they're about is probably the best bet.

I went and checked my retired issue 1006. Scaled around 10-11 lbs DA, SA over the 4.5 lb minimum, probably 5 ish but both buttery smooth after thousands of rounds. Maybe yours just need a good cleaning and shot more.