Unjacketed lead bullets, ugh. I promise to clean the barrel more often! I have lead bullets because they were cheap, but when my 640’s accuracy went south I figured it was time to clean it. Waaaay past time. This picture is after about 6 or 7 soakings with bore cleaner. It’s soaking overnight now, slowly getting better.

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Cleaning Rule #1
Clean after every shooting session . Letting it cake up and bake on is not going to make it easier ... the longer you don't clean the worse it gets .

My Dad insisted guns be cleaned and put away before you went to bed ... it didn't matter if you had fired 5 or 50 shots ...you cleaned them .

You may want to invest in a Lewis Lead Remover !
Goggle the name.

Gary

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Clean them about every 200 rounds. I once leaded up a 357 with some soft bullets, been careful since then(it was in 1968). If the bullets fit and are a hard alloy, lubed you shouldn't have leading problems. I've got some Hi-Tec coated 9MM bullets to try but I've only shot 25 of them so far. They were a little less expensive than plated bullets. The 25 fired just fine, I'll load a whole box and test for accuracy and see if there is any leading. I shoot almost 100% cast lubed bullets in .38 and 45ACP and light .44's but shoot plated and jacketed in 9MM. I did shoot 1000 lubed cast bullets in a 92FS and a Citadel 9MM 1911 gun with out any leading problems but I clean every couple hundred rounds.

The way to deal with heavy leading is prevention.
That means using lead bullets properly sized to match cylinder throats and groove diameter of the bore. (Have you slugged and measured your bore and cylinder throats?). It also means using the right choice of alloy and lube for the intended muzzle velocity.

Of course this doesn't help if the gun isn't built right. It used to be that revolvers were generally built right, dimension-wise. Timing and alignment are also important. S&W even used to hand lap each individual barrel with a cast lead lap.

Maybe I'm just living in the past....

Sorry for your leading troubles. I hope you can find a solution so you can enjoy all the benefits of lead bullets.

The Lewis tool is back ordered at Brownell’s. The ammo was mostly Prvi Partisan .38.

Strands of copper Chore Boy type pads wrapped around an old cleaning brush work really well. BUT....test the pads with a magnet to make sure that they are not Copper plated steel. I bought some off-brand pads that said pure copper but turned out to be magnetic!

If you shoot lead in a magnum, you deserve lead fouling.

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"Don't Give Up the Ship"

I will take exception to this statement. I have fired many thousands of cast lead bullets in .357 magnum revolvers, at velocities in the 1200-1300 FPS range, with no problems at all. As others have pointed out, the bullet must fit the bore, be cast of an alloy appropriate for the velocity intended, and be properly lubricated.

When cleaning the revolvers I am not aware of any solvent that will remove lead deposits. The only method that works is cutting through the leading with a good bore brush (or Lewis lead remover) and this is best done completely dry as the first step in cleaning, followed by normal solvent and patch cleaning to remove powder residue.

Cleaning a revolver that has accumulated significant leading is a bit of a chore, but not a really major project. A good quality bronze bore brush is much harder than the lead, and much softer than the steel in the revolver. With enough passes through the bore and chambers it will remove the leading right down to the steel. Solvents or oils will only lubricate the passage of the bore brush, so the bore brush passes over the leading without cutting it away.

It can be very helpful to thoroughly "lead" a revolver one time. After that the shooter will learn to apply the correct precautions by selecting bullets of correct dimensions, correct hardness, and properly lubricated for use in that revolver.

Edited to add: I regularly shoot rifle calibers with cast lead bullets at velocities in the 2000-2500FPS range with no leading issues. The key issues remain bullet dimensions, alloy hardness, and lubrication appropriate for the use.

Thank you Mr. Sunshine

Yep! If you can use cast bullets in an M1 Garand, driven fast enough to cycle the action yet clean enough to keep from clogging the gas port, then lead bullets (done right) in a revolver (Magnums included) are no problem!

Haven't bought jacketed bullets in years. But, just priced them...Gee Whiz! I think I'll fire up the old lead pot!

But, to the OP (this is where the topic started!): a friend new to shooting bought a new M66. Had tons of leading using Fiocchi 38 special LRN ammo. I cleaned it for him with just a bronze brush and Rem-Oil. He was amazed at the lead chunks that came flying out. We then went to the range with a box of my handloaded cast wadcutters. No problem!

Don't get discouraged!!

WOW! That's a super dirty barrel!

It is just my opinion of course but I advocate cleaning a gun after each and every session. By doing that it only takes a short amount of time and it will always be spotless.

In my Revolvers 95% of what I shoot is Lead and my barrels are pristine. Cleaning them after a shooting session typically takes 5 minutes - the Cylinder Charge Holes take a bit more time since there are 6 of them.

When back in stock - you DEFINITELY need to order the LLR!

The copper Chore Boy idea posted by Bib is a good one. The only problem is finding a true copper one. Most is copper plated. The copper stuff used to be found everywhere but now it hard to find except at gas station convenience stores near neighborhoods frequented by crack heads. The last one I got it at you had to ask for it because they keep it behind the counter as it tends to walk off.

I guess Elmer Keith didn't know what he was doing. And Skeeter Skelton, too.

It also might help if you tumble lubed your commercial cast bullets . Then lay them out on a piece of wax paper to dry . I use a 40-40-10 of Alox , paste wax , mineral spirits mixture . The lube they use is hard , like crayons and that's all it's good for --- is crayons . Regards Paul

Not True , if done correctly .
See the 41 magnum in my avatar ...
I shoot cast lead bullets in it exclusively ... no lead fouling ever .
Gary

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To be fair, some rifling these days isn't as smooth as it should be. Kroil is a good penetrating product to get under the leading. If possible, fill up the barrel with it and plug it. The longer you let it soak, the better. Using a good new bronze brush and/ or one wrapped in solid copper strings of cleaning pads should get most of the leading out. Keep repeating the Kroil/ brushing chore until the bore is clean. If the clean bore is a little rough, you can use JB Bore Paste/ Kroil to smooth it out some. This gives you some idea:

For Lead Free Performance.
About a 60%(JLW), 40%(LeeAlox) mix.
You don't need such a big mixing bottle,
just what I started with years ago.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

Another recommendation for Chore Boy. Tease a few strands off the pad and wrap them around a bore brush or mop. All the lead will come out with a few passes - been there, done that. Works as well as the Lewis Lead remover, although the Lewis has the benefit of also removing lead from the forcing cone area, if that's an issue. As others have said, be sure you get copper, not copper-plated, scrubbers which the Chore Boy brand are. Chore Boy does also make stainless steel scrubbers, but they're not copper plated so are easy to identify and avoid.

On those occasions when I have experienced leading, I started out with the Lewis Lead Remover on a "dry" barrel. This was followed by copper "Chore-Boy" (available on Amazon) with Hoppe's No. 9 .

I clean the revolver/pistol and let some of the solvent in the bore overnight. This usually brings out some of the lead as evidence by cleaning with a patch the next day.

On the very few occasions that the bore did not appear thoroughly clean, I used J & B Bore Cleaning Compound. This removed any remaining deposits.

As an aside, just to be safe, don't leave solvents on the exterior finish on a firearm for extended periods. While I've never experienced it, others on this forum have expressed concern about blued and nickel finishes being damaged by the solvent.

None of the above are "harsh" treatments for removing lead. For me they have stood the test of time.

HTH.

JPJ

I too use the coper chore boy on an old bore brush. Recently, I have followed Hickcock 45 statement about firing a few fmjs and I have copper fmj as well as cast lead projectiles so I can follow up w/ fmjs.

Barrel leading isn't a product of shooting lead but proper alloy, bullet to bore sizing and proper lube. But most of all start with a clean barrel! Hardware stores carry copper cloth similar to Chore Boy for cleaning. As mentioned wrap it around a brush and use with penetrating oil.

I've shot 10's of thousands of lead bullets in revolver competition and clean my barrels with a rolled up paper towel! And not until 250-300 rounds! I clean my cylinders with a course fiber brush purchased in a medical supply store. I clean cylinders at around 50 rounds, even during matches. Smooth reloads are a must!

I cast a NOE 135 grain, .358 LRNFP using reclaimed range lead at about 8-10 BHN. These are sized to .357 and I use a soft lube. I use this bullet in .357, 38Spl. 38 Super and 9mm at USPSA Minor velocities!

My 45 ACP 200 grain LSWC are sized to .452 with similar results.

It's very satisfying shooting and winning matches with my cast bullets. The real advantage is the ability to continue high volume shooting without regard to running out of bullets!

Smiles,

A leaded barrel is the result of possible numerous problems . It can be brought on by poor lube , bullet size too small or too hard alloy . The internal dimensions of the revolver --- cylinder throats too small , a tight spot in the barrel where it threads onto the frame which down sizes the cast bullet before entering the barrel , a rough barrel internally , a tight spot where they " roll stamped " the side of the barrel etc. A leaded barrel is not caused by the lead bullet . It's just the end result of problems mentioned above . Powder coated bullets help but are not the total answer . Regards Paul

I have been lead free since I started casting in the 90s. The correct lube has a lot to do with it. For pistol I use a soft lube. In my last batch of lube I added some Lees alox to the mix. I have a 900 degree pot and I was going to clean my mixing spoon that had Lees alox on it and it wouldn't melt. I don't like the alox for being messy but it works. Thanks for the photo.

I have used both the Lewis Lead Remover and the Core Boy method and found the Chore Boy method quite superior. One tip: use no solvent and use it in a perfectly dry bore. You will be amazed at the small pile of lead after a pass or two. I suppose using a lead solvent after the Chore Boy may remove any residual fouling.

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John. SWCA #1586

I know shooting a few jacketed bullets out of my 45 ACP gets any moderate amount of lead out every time. Has anyone tried this with revolvers.

If you're interested in the copper gauze method, and you like to buy in "bulk", look to Home Depot online. Bird B Gone Model# CMS-100 Copper Mesh 100 ft. Roll, (x 5 in. wide) $62.34. Beats competing with the crack-heads for the local supply of Chore-Boys, and no worries about any copper-plated steel substitutes. It IS configured a bit differently than Chore-Boys, but I find it easier to cut-to-suit, and to free up strands for wrapping around bore brushes or mops.

rvolvr, Amazon has a 16ft roll of Bird B Gone copper mesh for $16.

Stu

Chore Boy’s website says it’s sold locally at Winn-Dixie/Harvey’s. Publix doesn’t carry it.

The best bullet lube I've found is White Label brand Carnuba Red lube. It is low smoke and keeps the barrel very clean. I've shot 1000 rounds with that and still didn't have any leading.

The proper alloy lead and a polished, straight bore are always helpful.

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Just as an afterthought...I wouldn't want to fire a full power jacketed round down a barrel as fouled as the O.P's. I'm sure it would raise the pressure.

Telecaster, have you considered fire lapping your bore?
Steve

To paraphrase Crocodile Dundee, "That's not bulk, THIS is Bulk!

It's like buying powder by the 1-lb can instead of an 8-lb jug.

The way I look at it is when my kids inherit my guns, even THEY won't have to buy any ChoreBoys. Lucky them!

How many rounds did it take to get that bad?

I shoot lead almost exclusively in all calibers. Never had such a problem. But, I do clean my handguns after most every outing...my revolvers especially. As a matter of fact, I run a bore brush with some Ballistol through them, and wipe them down before I leave the firing line. I do occasionally get a slight bit of leading, but a bore brush with the Chore Boy trick takes care of it quickly...if the brass jag and 2 or 3 patches didn’t clean it.

I can’t find them locally so I tried Amazon. I guess the crackheads buy it there too, with the Pyrex tubes

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I stopped using plain leadcast bullets with just the ring of bullet lube. I been using moly leadcast bullets. After shooting these I find very little to no leading. But I run a few rounds of jacketed to make sure the bore is clean. I purchased the moly spray can to coat my non coated bullets. I haven’t tried it yet.

Do not wash the barrels when using moly. Just dry mop them. Washing the bores after moly removes the moly from the pores of the metal. This is why the moly coated rifle bullets never really caught on. The bore will be a light gray finish but it’s clean. I been using moly since 1970. It smooths out rough actions and lessens trigger pull. Eliminates wear, reduces friction, prevents galling, doesn’t attract dirt and fights corrosion.

I thought there was a rule against personally directed smart aleck answers.

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"Don't Give Up the Ship"

Yes curious minds want to know. This is my preferred method in my 1911's

I'm an oldster too, and I fully admit to living in the past.

When I was a poor college kid and couldn't afford store bought, I bought a box of .38 wadcutters with a reputable brand name. They leaded like I never saw before or since.

My next step was a $9 Lee mold, a Lyman cast boolet handbook and some lead from my Dad's shop. #2 alloy for many years.

Never leaded a barrel since and I cast for several magnum loads. All my rifles (8 different calibers) ALL shoot lead as well. The only difference is with those high velocities I also use gas checks.

If you have to buy finished boolets, be sure they are "hard cast".

“I know shooting a few jacketed bullets out of my 45 ACP gets any moderate amount of lead out every time. Has anyone tried this with revolvers.“

Yes. Regularly...every range session.