I have a 4" Python barrel and am going to stick it on a 10-7 J&G sales gunsmith special frame and a recessed model 19 cylinder. I will mill and install adjustable sights on the frame. I have milled and installed sights on multiple fix sight guns. That is not a problem

I ran a K frame die over the Python threads and they came out fine and it threads in to the smith frame fine. Here is what I notice.

Barrel goes past top dead center by about 10 degrees. I can fix this by either removing about .025 from back shoulder of barrel or front of frame. No big problems.

Barrel extension is to long for even a 38 special cylinder. I can trim that and redo forcing cone to get correct clearance after timing barrel. Have tools for that.

The opening in the ejector rod shroud is to skinny for a S&W rod. A couple light passes with a carbide ball end mill will fix that.

I can install a ball detent type lock on the yoke.

But, The slanted portion of the Python barrel ends quite a bit higher than the front of the S&W frame. The way I fix that when sticking a ribbed S&W barrel on a round frame is to mill a shallow slot in the top of the frame and machine a piece of rib off an old barrel to fit in that slot and go just under the front of new rear sight tang and silver solder it in place. . But the Python barrel is even higher than that. I could make a piece that sets level with the front of the sight tang, but I don't think even that would be high enough to match the Python rib. I could set up and machine a new angle to make it match. But getting the angle set up right making the cut and getting the finish right would be a bit problematic, but not impossible

Could you guys that have Smolts post some pictures of the top of joint between barrel and frame?

I have done 2 other J&G frames. One I just mounted a 4" model 10 heavy barrel on and a 4" ejector rod.. Had to put a tiny bevel on the back outside corners of the barrels rib to match the frame radius. Shoots good.

The other I mounted a nickel recessed 357 cylinder and model 13 barrel on and it to shoots good as a 357 pinto

No answers, but I am working on it anyway. The barrel is just about there. I could go ahead and torque it up but want to do the milling and add something to help barrel rib match up before I do that.

Here it is with barrel 1 turn out. Channel of ejector shroud opened up for thicker S&W ejector rod. Barrel extension should be about .004 when I torque it up. Flat has been filed on bottom of barrel for gas rig etc clearance, Recessed model 19 cylinder and the frame lug is worked back for that. Got a long K frame sight on the way. I think I can make the center portion of rib come out, but am going to have to either put a bevel on the wide part of rib or make up a piece that is added to the frame to make the barrel frame junction look right. Better pictures when I am done. Cloudy and rainy out today.

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This is J&G gun smith special frame # 3 for me first one became a 4" heavy barrel 38 special, the next a got a model 13 nickel barrel and recessed cylinder to become a 4" pinto 357. After this one is done I am going to do a 327 Federal. For $170 a frame its lots of fun.

Anybody need a good K frame 38 cylinder and 2" ejector rod. I have some.

Can you get a rear sight with a long enough tang to reach the barrel?

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Mark

I’m sorry but that ribbed Colt barrel is all wrong in my eyes with that frame. It’s about symmetry and proportion and it looks like a mis-match. It’s an opinion of aesthetics only but then that counts with me otherwise I’d own a Glock

Congratulations on your skill and knowledge. Makes me know that I need to stay in the Lounge!

lots of nice projects a person can do but mixing S&W w Colt parts...n/g (no good).

A 2.5” 19 frame with full length sight base is the correct answer. Your machining skills seem up to the job, but starting with the proper parts is 75% of the job. Many start with a 4 or 6 inch 19 and end up with a 1/4” gap between the sight base and barrel rib - never seen anyone start with a fixed sight K frame. FWIW, the 2” m15 also comes with the full length sight base but it’s a .38.

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213th FBINA

I bought a 66-2 with a 4" Python barrel from my buddy Jim Brewster. Culina grips, too pretty to pass up. The height difference on this gun is blended even by the sight tang. They are level. I would post pictures, but need a twelve year old to show me how....

When I mill the frame for the sight I will set the top of the sight tang level with the rear top of the frame. The sight I have coming will probably not reach the end of the frame. But, I have a bunch of old barrels and pieces of barrels and I can take a piece of rib off one and machine it so that it is thick enough that I can cut a shallow slot in the frame directly in line with the sight tang slot and silver solder the rib piece in the slot so that it matches the sight tang and meets the Python barrel rib.
Something similar works well when putting adjustable sights and ribbed barrel on things like 1917s. With this one I will simply make the piece in front of sight tang level with sight tang so it is higher and comes closer to matching the Python barrel rib. If I have to the Python rib has no grooves and I could easily just mill the angle on it so ends at same height as the sight tang

This is a Brazilian I made into a 45 colt using a 1950 barrel some one had cut to 4 1/2"




But, hey I am only going to have just over $300 in it anyway. Interesting making it works and better than just watching TV

Check out the website of Dewey Vicknair (Vicknair Restorations). He is one of the best gunsmiths in this country and I remember seeing a Smolt he blogged about (look under pistolsmithing....Smython). Maybe you can get some ideas there. Best of luck with your project. There are certainly merits to making a Smolt, and I bet you are up to the task.

I hope you keep us informed on your progress.

Cap

Cool work, but what he actually does in the pictures I saw was modify a S&W barrel to look like a Python barrel. He also sticks a Python Barrel on a Ruger. He is very good.

Basically he took a full under lug S&W barrel and machined the rib down and left a key in the center of it and then mated a piece of bar stock to it and machined it to have python rib and also turned the muzzle to have the correct look. Slick.

I have one of those strangely named contraptions, however mine was made from a L-frame so the barrel and frame match up nicely.

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Nitehawk

That is the easiest as the later Python barrels with the single pin front sight ran the same threads as an L Frame. The 2 pin ones had .563 which wouldn't be hard to take care of. I am sure that yours still needed the slot for the ejector rod opened up in the Python barrel. Mine needed it mostly closest to the barrel yours probably the other way. A Smith ejector rod is to fat for a stock Python shroud

But, when Smolts first started being built L frames didn't exist. Most of them were built on K frames.

Great work steelslaver. I hope that this picture helps. Both of my frames are 19-5s.

I wondered why you placed a fish thread in the Gunsmithing section?? All I can say is that you certainly belong in this section, nice work.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Today I am going to go out and check my out camping spots for my hunting camp. Been there before, but this will be the first time I have set up a camp where I want to focus on and a buddy is coming with a camp trailer so need to check for it having room.

I can see where a adjustable sight frame is better. But I think I have figured out a good plan.