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10-11-2020, 08:37 AM
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Grey ScotchBrite
I found some grey ScotchBrite pads at the local Home Depot so I decided to try one out on my 639 frame. It came to me with shiny streaks suggesting holster hardware contact. Cosmetic but harmless. Anyway, I rubbed gently front to back, and more enthusiastically where needed and the shiny spots were pretty much blended in and gone. There are some peck marks on the other side that will require more aggressive action, but for now I'm quite happy with the results.
Froggie
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cndrdk, CQB27, D Brown, GeoJelly, Hondo44, JayCeeNC, John F., lscocoa, pmanton, Protocall_Design, S&WIowegan, stansdds, Stroker468, torizus |
10-11-2020, 09:23 AM
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Nice job.
A very practical and nice result when done right.
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10-11-2020, 02:28 PM
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Looks great!
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10-11-2020, 02:29 PM
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Looks like an excellent match to the original finish!
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Jim
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10-11-2020, 02:57 PM
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Well done!
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10-11-2020, 03:24 PM
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I discovered this method several years ago and have used it on several stainless revolvers including a 640 that I picked up at a gun show. I cleaned it up after acquiring it and ended up selling it, looking like new a few days later. Also used on a hard chromed BHP Custom that turned out great. You have to be careful with over doing it and ending up with the finish being too shiny unless of course you are looking for a more polished result. Also great for taking discoloration from the front of stainless cylinders.
Last edited by Marshal tom; 10-11-2020 at 03:26 PM.
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10-11-2020, 04:04 PM
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OK, let me try this again... I pushed the wrong virtual button on my iPad And this whole post disappeared in a flash of electrons! 
I had seen references to using that grey ScotchBrite on matte stainless but had had a less than satisfactory experience when I tried the burgundy grade of SB on an old Model 66. Anyway, I finally was able to, in the words of The Bard, “Screw up my courage” and start in on the 639... those shiny streaks just had to go! I was pleased with how well the minor wear could be blended back like original. I definitely have another “tool in the box” for working with stainless!
As the picture below shows, the peck marks on the other side will be a bit more challenging. I’m thinking of going a couple of grades more coarse and working up and down to eliminate the marks as much as possible, then come back with the grey SB front to back and blend it... gotta avoid the roll mark of course. Comments?
Froggie
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10-11-2020, 06:17 PM
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Froggie,
I would highly recommend flat sanding with a small flat piece of metal as a sanding block with 1000 then 2000 grit paper to prevent 'dishing out' the area. Then finish with the gray Scotchbrite.
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10-11-2020, 06:35 PM
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I have the 1996 S&W catalog, that shows how the original finish is created,,
the parts are processed through a giant vibratory media machine, similar to what many use on a small scale to process brass.
The parts are in the tub with abrasive media shapes, mostly triangular in shape.
That is why it is so difficult to duplicate the original texture.
Where I worked in the 1980's and 1990's, we had three of those machines.
They produced VERY impressive parts,, and not a machining burr anywhere the stone media could reach.
Many employees brought in "home projects" and tossed them in the tub at the beginning of the day, and asked the operator to set the part aside when the cycle was completed,,
Anything you could imagine that was metal had been through those machines.
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10-11-2020, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44
Froggie,
I would highly recommend flat sanding with a small flat piece of metal as a sanding block with 1000 then 2000 grit paper to prevent 'dishing out' the area. Then finish with the gray Scotchbrite.
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Jim, I was already thinking of that... in fact, a small flat file makes a pretty good sanding block. My old friend, the late engraver Ken Hurst suggested using a hard rubber eraser. That works pretty well too. Fortunately I've got some sheets of super fine Wet-or-Dry paper I've accumulated over the years. I'm ready to start as soon as I get my nerve up again and have at it.
I plan to mask off the monogram (with "Blue Tape"?) while I do the initial sanding, then blend toward the unsanded area. Hopefully I'll be able to get the divots eliminated or at least minimized without dishing it out too badly.
All of this is because I don't have access to one of those machines like SweetMK describes... it would be nice, but I don't. Sometimes I wish I'd been born rich instead of so darned handsome! 
Froggie
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