I've had the actions out of countless S&W revolvers but this 34 has got me puzzled. Every thing is out that needs to be out, hand is held to the rear, out of the slot, but the trigger just won't come off the trigger stud. It comes out just a hair and it kinda pops back in place but will not come out as usual.

Why I took the side plate off in the first place, you ask. I'm glad you asked. Just bought this 34-1 SB nickel and it checked out as good as it looked. This morning I was doing a little cleaning on it and the cylinder would not swing out because the thumb latch would not move. Turns out the bolt was out of it's hole and had some light corrosion. Anyway, my big hurtle is the removal of the trigger. Oiled it and wiggled till my fingers bled, but it is not coming off that stud. I'm hoping the stud is not bent (it looks OK).

It's a beautiful gun with this tiny problem.

Help smith.

Take a look with a magnifier and make sure the trigger is not catching on the bottom of the cylinder stop, on the portion of the stop that is directly above the trigger stud. Make sure that the stop is all the way up as far as it will go. As you know, there's very little room in there.

Also, check the "top" of the trigger stud for a burr....on that portion of the stud that is above where the trigger now rests. That's the part of the pin you're trying to lift the trigger off of, so there may be a burr there causing problems.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Back to the table. I'll let you know. Thanks.

In addition to the advise above, a little Kroil or other penetrating oil might help. Just a few drops down the stud and let it sit for a few hours before trying again. They usually come off easily - but now and then you get one that fits tighter than normal. Dirt, crud and dried oil doesn't help.

I've got the Kroil and that's what I will do. It does feel like a burr on the stud but it is really hard to polish it out with the trigger on. I was going to abandon mission and put it back together but now I'm committed. The hand spring came loose and the hand is flopping around. I've done it before but I have to get that trigger off. it was a lot easier before these tremors set in. I told Karen that it's going to drive me to drink. That was just a joke.

Kroil for now and hit it again in the AM. Thank you.

You can check for a burr and find it's location by using a fingernail on the end of the trigger stud by trying to catch your nail, going all around the end of the stud. Also put kroil on the contact areas where the front trigger hook operates the cyl bolt, and at the top of the trigger where it must slide under the cyl bolt.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

I had to walk away from it for a while. There are definitely rough spots on the stud and I've been working it with fine sand paper. There is so little room to get to that small area. I can only do it for 20-30 minutes at a time. Once It is fixed and back together I will post some pictures. It is a beautiful little revolver. I believe I'm on the right track as I'm able to lift the trigger up a bit more each time I work on it. Time & perseverance!

Finally got the trigger off. Lots of crud between the trigger and frame. The stud was bent (forward) just enough to cause problems. AND the hand torsion spring is broken. I guess I will have to find and install a new spring, true up the trigger stud, and reassemble. Any advice?

Thank you.

Go slow. And enjoy the project. Ask us specific questions that may arise.

If the stud is bent because it's cracked, and naps off during straightening it, don't panic. It's actually easier to get the piece still in the frame out once broken off. We've had lot's of experience replacing studs, just ask. But it will likely straighten up with TLC.

Replacement studs are not hard to find. Gun Parts Corp is a good, reasonably priced source of the parts you need/may need:

Gun Parts Corp: Successor to Numrich Arms; many gun parts.
226 Williams Lane, West Hurley, NY 12491
Phone: 845-679-2417
e-Mail: info@gunpartscorp.com
Web Site: Gun Parts & Firearm Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts

And a couple of others:

‘Guns & Gun Parts’ (Recommended by S&W)
(413) 732-9938
983 Westfield St
West Springfield MA 01089-3813
EMAIL: info@gunsnparts.com
Guns n Parts - New and Used Guns Bought and Sold. no parts list here.


George Dye
"Salt Lake Collectibles Co."
P.O. Box 57433, Salt Lake City, UT, 84157
phone (205)502-2026

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Well, I finally got this puppy back together and all is well. i used small needle nose plyers with duct tape wrapping to true the stud. No damage. Lightly polished a few things with 0000 steel wool, cleaned and lubed every where and put it back together. BTW, the torsion spring was fine. I just wish I had a third hand. That was fun. I did change out the hammer and rebound springs. Wolff 8# hammer and 12# rebound. Loaded it with snap caps and gave it a work out and tested IAW Jerry K. Non-shooting with the gun feels great, but I'm taking it to the range tomorrow to make sure the hammer is not too light. I'm taking along my newly purchased Remington 12A to see how it does. More for function than accuracy as my tremors make that difficult.

Thank you Hondo44 and all for the advice and encouragement. Pictures tomorrow in the appropriate section.

Functioned perfectly, well almost. Remington std, CCI Stinger, Winchester Super X were all great. RWS subsonic fired every time but the cases had to be tapped out. I've never had a problem with them in my suppressed Mk II or 77/22 suppressed Rugers. The chambers seem to be very clean so I'm thinking the RWS has fairly soft brass. ??