Cardboard smithing. Found outer box for an 8-3/8” Jet,so set to
work on making home for my 6” N. I can later change the box
for an 8 if so needed. IF I ever find a spare cylinder I’ll accommodate it ,also. 5 layers of regular cardboard. Fingers for
the inserts were cut from plastic cable ties and superglued in. Paint is Rustolem Sapphire blue Satin. Paint in the picture is not correct. 😂. Just go easy with an exacto knife. Pete

Still looking to BUY that TARGET HAMMER!!!! Let me know,please!

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NRA LIFE 1974

Did S&W ever do any thing like that for the 53? I ask because I've never seen a boxed model 53. Come to think of it, I've only seen one 53 period.

A local guy that I have bought a couple of revolvers from contacted me to tell me he has a 6" M53 with original box he'd like to sell. He's offering it to me first and I'll be looking at it when he gets back into town on the 18th.
I'll post up what the box looks like once I see it.

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Send lawyers, guns & money...

Yes... the insert was either punched out for inserts only or inserts and the Aux .22LR cylinder, if ordered.

I definitely like the idea of the nylon ties being used as the "fingers" that slip into the inserts. On the factory box insert, they are cardboard and break off after awhile. I'm going to glue some to the underside of the cardboard ones to reinforce them.

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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

I used blue matt board that I bought at a craft store to make my insert. I need to cut it out for the inserts yet. You did a nice job on that.

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GM4spd,

You did a terrific job in manufacturing the insert for the Jet M53! I have an extensive background in restorations of various curios & collectibles and can make a few suggestions - if you are receptive.

#1) NEVER EVER use cardboard! It contains harsh acids and chemicals that will harm many finishes of guns as well as paper instructions, wood, etc. over a period of time. Instead, use acid free products such as 100% Cotton Rag Board and it will never turn rancid. This is what museums use in their restorations. I have actually made reproduction boxes for very old guns from this and it is available in thicknesses from 1/32" - 1/4". Make sure you also use acid free adhesives or you will negate the acid free cotton rag.

NOTE: Just about any S&W original box that I am aware of was NOT made to acid free specifications, but the Company never intended on Collectors storing them in their for long periods of time. In fact many S&W owners quickly threw out the boxes shortly after heir purchase and so acid free packaging was never a concern for S&W or most other manufacturers.

#2) You can also use flocking prior to painting the proper color is the original was finished in that manner. I do not have a M53 so I am not familiar and don't know if the original had flocking or not. You will have to research the acidity of the paint and flocking on your own of course.

#3) If you don't wish to redo your efforts using acid free materials (I would understand), then just buy some of the S&W logo VOC paper (you can buy directly from S&W ) and wrap the revolver in a layer of that treated paper prior to storing. The VOC paper works very well, will last at least 3-4 years and then should probably be replaced as its protective properties are gone by then. When I procure a vintage S&W and the original VOC paper is included, I simply fold it gently and place it in the bottom of the box. I use a fresh piece of VOC paper to actually wrap the gun in.

Regards,
Chief38