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  #1  
Old 01-23-2021, 03:45 AM
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Default Cylinder release frozen

Last night I pulled out my 25-2 to clean it and The cylinder wouldn't open. I pushed the cylinder release as far forward as it would go, and was able to get it open with a light whack with a plastic mallet.

I took off the cylinder to make sure the ejection rod was screwed in tight, and it was. Put it back together and the cylinder still won't open. Can't pull the hammer back. I took off the cylinder release knob and it seems stuck. It will move toward the grips, but will not move all the way forward toward the cylinder.

Anything else simple that I should check before heading to a gunsmith? Also, if I need a gunsmith, anyone know of a good one in western Oregon? Any info greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-23-2021, 05:00 AM
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When you had the cylinder off to check the ejection rod did you think to see if the center rod can be fully depressed & returns freely?

Since it's been sitting maybe the center rod is stuck, either gummed up or rusted.

.
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Old 01-23-2021, 10:59 AM
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Pull the grips off, and let it soak in a bucket of kerosene for a few days.
Don't whack the cylinder with a hammer! Good way to bend the center pin, enlarge the center pin hole in the breech face and gouge your breech face.

If you tried to cock the hammer with the cylinder open/out, the bolt (widget that moves the center pin) was locking the action as designed.
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Old 01-23-2021, 12:19 PM
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To cock the hammer with the cylinder out, pull the cylinder release to the rear (same as the pin would push it when cylinder was closed).
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Old 01-23-2021, 01:20 PM
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I have had a few revolvers that were sticky like yours-they had sat in the safe for some time. I would take the cylinder release thumb piece off, put a few drops of gun oil or penetrating oil in and work the release slide back and forth a bunch until it freed up. Hopefully!
Ed
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Old 01-23-2021, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BLUEDOT37 View Post
When you had the cylinder off to check the ejection rod did you think to see if the center rod can be fully depressed & returns freely?

Since it's been sitting maybe the center rod is stuck, either gummed up or rusted.

.
Center ejection rod is fine. Slides in and out all the way, and seats completely on the 2 pins that fit through the extractor. No crud under the ejector plate either.
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Old 01-23-2021, 02:36 PM
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Pull the grips off, and let it soak in a bucket of kerosene for a few days.
Don't whack the cylinder with a hammer! Good way to bend the center pin, enlarge the center pin hole in the breech face and gouge your breech face.

If you tried to cock the hammer with the cylinder open/out, the bolt (widget that moves the center pin) was locking the action as designed.
I didn't try that. I was just saying that with the cylinder closed the hammer won't pull back rotating the cylinder.

So kerosine won't hurt the finish? I'm willing to try anything simple like that.
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Old 01-23-2021, 02:37 PM
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I have had a few revolvers that were sticky like yours-they had sat in the safe for some time. I would take the cylinder release thumb piece off, put a few drops of gun oil or penetrating oil in and work the release slide back and forth a bunch until it freed up. Hopefully!
Ed
Thanks, that certainly seems worth a try. I will today.
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Old 01-23-2021, 02:53 PM
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If its stuck and soaking doesn't free it up my next step would be to try removing the side plate and removing the hammer trigger etc, clean and inspect,

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Old 01-23-2021, 03:10 PM
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Center ejection rod is fine. Slides in and out all the way, and seats completely on the 2 pins that fit through the extractor. No crud under the ejector plate either.
Not what was suggested..

Center pin is the little nub that protruded out of the extractor and keeps the cylinder aligned with barrel and closed.

Press that little nub.. it's spring loaded can be depressed with your finger..

If this pin doesn't return fully, you will not be able to cock the hammer..sticky makes opening the cylinder difficult.
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Old 01-23-2021, 03:20 PM
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Not what was suggested..

Center pin is the little nub that protruded out of the extractor and keeps the cylinder aligned with barrel and closed.

Press that little nub.. it's spring loaded can be depressed with your finger..

If this pin doesn't return fully, you will not be able to cock the hammer..sticky makes opening the cylinder difficult.
Ok thanks. Will check that
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Old 01-23-2021, 06:32 PM
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So kerosine won't hurt the finish? I'm willing to try anything simple like that.
Well, you might want to remove the rear sight if it's got the white outline. The finish shouldn't be affected-unless maybe yours is painted or cerrakoted..
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Old 01-23-2021, 06:44 PM
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Might also want to put a drop of oil on the spring loaded pin that engages the front of your ejector rod, at the tip. If it is binding, it can also cause the same issue.

Larry
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Old 01-23-2021, 09:27 PM
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Might also want to put a drop of oil on the spring loaded pin that engages the front of your ejector rod, at the tip. If it is binding, it can also cause the same issue.

Larry
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Not what was suggested..

Center pin is the little nub that protruded out of the extractor and keeps the cylinder aligned with barrel and closed.

Press that little nub.. it's spring loaded can be depressed with your finger..

If this pin doesn't return fully, you will not be able to cock the hammer..sticky makes opening the cylinder difficult.
So I checked the center pin and it's broken. It moves freely, but instead of sticking out 17 or 18 hundredths of an inch it's protruding only about 3 hundredths from the ejector plate. I assume that part can be replaced fairly easily by just unscrewing the ejector rod from the cylinder and putting in a new one. Any suggestions on a good place to find parts would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-23-2021, 10:01 PM
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New center pins are available, but it will have to be fit to your assembly. It's not a "drop in" part. Also, because of the change in the location of the collar on many of the new center pins, you may need to find a "period correct" center pin for your model 25-2. S&W part number 04992, or 07275 (stainless).

This one at Midway may have the correct collar location. According to the parts manual, it has the correct number. Perhaps you can compare the illustration to your broken one......

Smith & Wesson Center Pin S&W N-Frame Model 24 27 28 57 610 624
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Old 01-23-2021, 10:07 PM
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New center pins are available, but it will have to be fit to your assembly. It's not a "drop in" part.
OK Thanks. By the way, I was born in Evansville, IN.
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Old 01-23-2021, 11:10 PM
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So I checked the center pin and it's broken. It moves freely, but instead of sticking out 17 or 18 hundredths of an inch it's protruding only about 3 hundredths from the ejector plate. I assume that part can be replaced fairly easily by just unscrewing the ejector rod from the cylinder and putting in a new one. Any suggestions on a good place to find parts would be greatly appreciated.
Pump the brakes my Guy...

Is the tip still nicely rounded?




I would imagine your gun is completely gunked up. Some oils that we use for gun cleaning are for short term use only. Long periods of time tend to dry them out, turning them from oil into a sticky varnish type material.

Your center pin can become stuck as well, just like your cylinder release. How is your DA pull? Heavy as hell perhaps? I think your gun needs a good cleaning. This will involve the side plate being removed (don't pry it, gentle tapping only), and the disassembly of your cylinder.

Watch this video and see if that doesn't sound familiar.

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Old 01-24-2021, 12:57 AM
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Pump the brakes my Guy...

Is the tip still nicely rounded?




I would imagine your gun is completely gunked up. Some oils that we use for gun cleaning are for short term use only. Long periods of time tend to dry them out, turning them from oil into a sticky varnish type material.

Your center pin can become stuck as well, just like your cylinder release. How is your DA pull? Heavy as hell perhaps? I think your gun needs a good cleaning. This will involve the side plate being removed (don't pry it, gentle tapping only), and the disassembly of your cylinder.

Watch this video and see if that doesn't sound familiar.

S&W Combat Magnum Resurrection - YouTube
The tip of the center pin is partially rounded. There is a crescent shaped area around the edge that is flat. When I close the cylinder the thumb piece remains in the forward position. Compared to the tip of the center pin on my 629, it's not nearly as dome shaped at the tip.

I'm going to take the face plate off and clean everything as best I can. Maybe something is gumming up the spring that pushes the center pin when the cylinder closes because it doesn't return the thumb piece to its normal position. I guess I'll have to remove the ejector rod to find out if the problem is inside the cylinder. Good video. Thanks for posting.

I've never lubricated this gun, but I've only had it for a few months, so I suppose it's possible the previous owner over lubed it. I appreciate all the comments and efforts to help a novice when it comes to revolver care and feeding.
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Old 01-24-2021, 09:27 PM
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So today I took apart the problem revolver to clean it completely. There was no gunk or anything causing the parts to stick. Below is a picture before cleaning with the side plate off.
Cylinder release frozen-2731d055-63f7-4e43-bc8f-3c53c847b650-jpg
Not much to clean up, just a couple of spots of oil to wipe off, no glue. I took all the parts out and cleaned everything with brake clean, and applied a light bit of Hoppes #9 to everything and wiped off everything I could see (as suggested by gunblue).

I also took apart the cylinder and thoroughly cleaned it. Just some powder residue that was cleaned out. Both springs were fine.

The center pin is indeed broken. It is completely pushed in and seated as far as it will go. Below is a picture of the center pin of the 25-2 with a picture of the pin of my 629-1. Markedly different. I'm going to order the part suggested above. Hope it fits.

The 25-2:
Cylinder release frozen-adaa20ef-beb5-4bce-951f-e6631fb021fb-jpg

The 629-1:
Cylinder release frozen-dbfa6bb5-b264-4489-9da2-ef55aa978675-jpg
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File Type: jpg 2731D055-63F7-4E43-BC8F-3C53C847B650.jpg (61.6 KB, 731 views)
File Type: jpg ADAA20EF-BEB5-4BCE-951F-E6631FB021FB.jpg (35.5 KB, 730 views)
File Type: jpg DBFA6BB5-B264-4489-9DA2-EF55AA978675.jpg (38.7 KB, 730 views)
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Old 01-24-2021, 10:20 PM
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a good type of pen. oil is a God send. you can use a lot, as it can be washed out with alcohol ! leave it for 24 hrs.s. and, if that don't loosen it , dilute the penitraring with 50% gasoline. good luck, vin
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Old 01-25-2021, 06:33 PM
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Did the domed end sheer off? Any chance you can disassemble the ejector rod? I would like to see the entire pin if possible. I’ve not yet seen one that broke off at the extractor. Not saying it isn’t, just curious...
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Old 01-25-2021, 06:33 PM
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Agreed looks funky... do you know how to disassemble the cylinder(left hand threads)

Here is a video on servicing the yoke area from Power Customs.. notes torque specs and much more..

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Old 01-25-2021, 06:48 PM
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Best to loosen the strain screw.. not good to have full tension on the internal pins unsupported with the sideplate removed.

In your picture you will see where I circled, the bolt interferes with the hammer unless the center pin pushes it rearward when the cylinder is closed.

The hammer needs to be removed to clean that area. Caution though, plunger and spring in end of bolt can be launched and lost.Gun looks clean doubt it's needed.
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Old 01-25-2021, 09:00 PM
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Make sure you have some empty cases in the chambers before you remove the ejector rod.
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:04 PM
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I was hoping she was just a dirty girl. It sure does look like the tip is broken off. Not something I have ever seen.
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:41 PM
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Did the domed end sheer off? Any chance you can disassemble the ejector rod? I would like to see the entire pin if possible. I’ve not yet seen one that broke off at the extractor. Not saying it isn’t, just curious...
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Agreed looks funky... do you know how to disassemble the cylinder(left hand threads)

Here is a video on servicing the yoke area from Power Customs.. notes torque specs and much more..Power Custom - S&W Yoke, Extractor Rod Alingment, & Endshake Correction - YouTube
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Best to loosen the strain screw.. not good to have full tension on the internal pins unsupported with the sideplate removed.

In your picture you will see where I circled, the bolt interferes with the hammer unless the center pin pushes it rearward when the cylinder is closed.

The hammer needs to be removed to clean that area. Caution though, plunger and spring in end of bolt can be launched and lost.Gun looks clean doubt it's needed.
1echo77: OK, I did disassemble the cylinder. The ejector rod was sheered off. Looks nothing like the cylinder rod on the 629. I cleaned all the parts and put back together. It's not bent. It springs in and out freely, but what you see sticking out of the ejector is as far as it will come out.

Bigggbbruce: First thing I did after removing the side plate was take out the strain screw and tension rod before removing all the parts. I took them all out and cleaned them. No lost or broken parts. Thanks for the video. I will check it out.

I have ordered a new extractor rod. When it arrives I'll take a picture and compare the two. Thanks for all the help. Much appreciated.
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Old 01-26-2021, 01:10 AM
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I pushed the cylinder release as far forward as it would go, and was able to get it open with a light whack with a plastic mallet.
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The ejector rod was sheered off. Looks nothing like the cylinder rod on the 629.
I'm guessing the center pin/rod was originally stuck, either gummed up or rusted, & couldn't be depressed normally.

Then the whack with the mallet sheared the tip of the rod off.

Hopefully nothing else is damaged.

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Old 01-27-2021, 12:57 PM
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Not that it was the problem here, but the last N frame I had in with that problem just had a loose retainer on the thumb piece. It was allowing the thumb piece to tilt rather than push the center rod far enough to unlock.
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Old 01-28-2021, 07:34 PM
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This is why I use a moly paste or antiseeze instead of gun oil. Gun oil gets sticky as it dries.
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:41 PM
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Might also want to put a drop of oil on the spring loaded pin that engages the front of your ejector rod, at the tip. If it is binding, it can also cause the same issue.

Larry
Larry,
That is great advice.
The locking bolt may be gummed up and keeping the ejector rod from moving properly. A little penetrating oil there, may well solve the problem.
Best,
Gary
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Old 01-29-2021, 07:49 PM
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I have had what seemed like a frozen cylinder release on my Smith & Wessons on two occasions. Both times were with recently purchased used guns. The first time, I had cleaned the gun but not detail stripped the cylinder. A couple of days later when I went to the range, I could not open the cylinder as the thumb release just wouldn't move forward. It really blew my mind as the gun seemed ready to go after cleaning it a few days before.

I stood the revolver upright, and dripped a little Kroil on the little spring loaded pin that sticks out of the barrel lug, let it sit overnight and then heated the cylinder up with a hair dryer and got it to open.

What I determined had happened was that in cleaning it, I got just enough solvent around the center pin and extractor that it emulsified the old oil which then dried again and locked everything up. A detail strip revealed that the center pin had what looked like a coat of varnish on it. A cleaning and lube with modern oil fixed that issue.

A few years later, the exact same thing happened with another used gun. That time I knew the cause and the fix. It taught me to always detail strip and thoroughly clean and relube any 50, 60 or 70+ year old used guns that I buy. Some of the moving parts on those old Smith & Wessons were fitted so closely that it doesn't take much in the way of old hardened oils or lubricants to retard or totally resist movement.

Last edited by Walter Rego; 01-29-2021 at 07:52 PM.
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Old 01-29-2021, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Walter Rego View Post
I have had what seemed like a frozen cylinder release on my Smith & Wessons on two occasions. Both times were with recently purchased used guns. The first time, I had cleaned the gun but not detail stripped the cylinder. A couple of days later when I went to the range, I could not open the cylinder as the thumb release just wouldn't move forward. It really blew my mind as the gun seemed ready to go after cleaning it a few days before.

I stood the revolver upright, and dripped a little Kroil on the little spring loaded pin that sticks out of the barrel lug, let it sit overnight and then heated the cylinder up with a hair dryer and got it to open.

What I determined had happened was that in cleaning it, I got just enough solvent around the center pin and extractor that it emulsified the old oil which then dried again and locked everything up. A detail strip revealed that the center pin had what looked like a coat of varnish on it. A cleaning and lube with modern oil fixed that issue.

A few years later, the exact same thing happened with another used gun. That time I knew the cause and the fix. It taught me to always detail strip and thoroughly clean and relube any 50, 60 or 70+ year old used guns that I buy.
That's a good tip. I have a few now that I need to do that with, although with this particular gun, the center pin was shiny and pristine with no evidence of varnish build-up.
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Last edited by DeplorabusUnum; 01-29-2021 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 02-03-2021, 12:54 AM
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The new firing pin arrived from Midway. The crucial end was the exact right size. The long end had to be ground down a couple of hundredths. The tip was indeed broken off.

Cylinder release frozen-8a54e9ad-ec60-4453-b314-52640e40deab-jpg

Cylinder release frozen-1ce60309-11a3-4d20-aaaa-8b9cc4ce7f4d-jpg

Fits like a glove and the cylinder locks up tight and releases as it should. The extractor pin was too short to reach the extractor rod release in the barrel lug. Thanks again for all who helped and to armorer951 for the link to a new extractor pin.
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Old 02-03-2021, 01:05 AM
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I'm guessing the center pin/rod was originally stuck, either gummed up or rusted, & couldn't be depressed normally.

Then the whack with the mallet sheared the tip of the rod off.

Hopefully nothing else is damaged.

.
My thoughts exactly. I bet there is a little 3/32" piece floating around somewhere that sheared off and fell out when you whacked it with the mallet.
Definitely needed replacing after that. Hopefully the hole in the recoil shield that the tip of the center pin fits into isn't buggered up. Inspect it closely. You might have to remove some burrs.
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Last edited by BC38; 02-03-2021 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 02-03-2021, 03:13 AM
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My thoughts exactly. I bet there is a little 3/32" piece floating around somewhere that sheared off and fell out when you whacked it with the mallet.
Definitely needed replacing after that. Hopefully the hole in the recoil shield that the tip of the center pin fits into isn't buggered up. Inspect it closely. You might have to remove some burrs.
Although possible, I don't believe so. I took everything apart and there was no gum or varnish anywhere on any part. Everything moved freely, and all the springs were fine. The gun wasn't over oiled at all by the previous owner. It was exactly the same after cleaning it as before. Anyway, glad it's back to normal. i will definitely inspect the hole. Thanks again everyone.
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Old 02-20-2021, 05:45 PM
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Last night I pulled out my 25-2 to clean it and The cylinder wouldn't open. I pushed the cylinder release as far forward as it would go, and was able to get it open with a light whack with a plastic mallet.

I took off the cylinder to make sure the ejection rod was screwed in tight, and it was. Put it back together and the cylinder still won't open. Can't pull the hammer back. I took off the cylinder release knob and it seems stuck. It will move toward the grips, but will not move all the way forward toward the cylinder.

Anything else simple that I should check before heading to a gunsmith? Also, if I need a gunsmith, anyone know of a good one in western Oregon? Any info greatly appreciated.

I recently bought a very lightly used 27-2 do that had the same problem.

I got it open, by tapping on the release, and disassembled it. The parts inside had small drops of moisture on them. I put all the parts in my cleaning pan and covered them with mineral spirits to clean them. The insides of the frame had gummy residue in it that I feel was the original packing grease.

I cleaned all the nooks and crannies with mineral spirits and removed the spirits with brake parts cleaner. After it dried I lubricated it well and reassembled it. It works smoothly and I am looking forward to getting it to the range.

I was amazed at the lack of ring on the cylinder and the barrel had very little residue in it. I'm betting it hadn't had more than a couple of boxes of shells through it.
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