I'm not sure why we find so many of this model with missing hammer spurs. But in my observation most appear to have been the result of dropping the gun and breaking off the spur (the gun most commonly lands on the hammer).
Hammer or trigger repair/replacement alternatives:
The trigger is no problem: any Pre war I frame trigger is an exact replacement. Post war wider triggers work as well.
The hammer repair/replacement is not difficult, I've used a couple of repair/replacement alternatives; either permanent or temporary while you continue the search, and depending on if you want the gun restored to exact original configuration or to just get it functional:
1. The basic HFT I frame hammer and trigger were also used in the 100,000s for the pre war and post war up to ~1952 I frame .32. and .38 S&W HEs. These are relatively easy to find used in "part kits" on eBay and Gunbroker and from old parts suppliers; then cannibalized for the spur or for the hammer bottom/notches.
A. For restoration: the center fire hammer firing pin can be removed, the slot and rivet hole filled with welding and the hammer face ground to match the angle of your rimfire hammer.
Or the upper portion of the center fire hammer can be cut off and your original rimfire upper hammer portion can be grafted to it, again with Mig or Tig welding; polished and re-case hardened.
B. For just functionality (and simplest solution): the center fire hammer nose (firing pin) can be cut off flush with the hammer face and the hammer face angle slightly ground and polished to match the angle of your rimfire hammer. The firing pin rivet with a hole in it, can be replaced with a solid pin to better disguise the hammer as a rimfire hammer.
2. For a non-collector-gun, there's also the option of a hammer improvement/updating with wide spur as well, by using a post 1953 rimfire hammer, a great functional improvement over the original small spur. You can graft the wide spur to the original hammer with tig welding, which of course requires re-finish if wanted. Then slightly grind the face angle to match your original hammer face.
Or simpler is, besides match grinding the face angle, slightly modify the hammer bottom shape, matching the original hammer for acceptance of the original stirrup and pin to work with the HFT’s flat mainspring.
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Jim
S&WCA #819
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