My 1955 38 M&P is malfunctioning. The rebound slide will jam in the hammer mechanism. I uploaded a photo to illustrate the problem.

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rebound slide jam.jpg (33.9 KB, 416 views)

No gunsmith here but that slide looks way out of position. Suggest you post on smithing section,

Looks like the trigger lever is either missing (broken off) or not inside the rebound slide like it should be, causing it to incorrectly cant up.

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aka "Mooncat"

Yep. No way the rebound slide could do what is in the picture with the trigger lever properly seated.

The trigger lever appears not to be inside the trigger, but inside the rebound slide. There should be a indentation in the front of the rebound slide for the ball end of the trigger lever. Also, a guess, is that someone shortened the rebound spring to lighten the DA trigger pull.
jcelect

Appears the trigger lever may have broken loose from it's pin on the trigger. Should be attached to the pin that's in about the 7 o'clock position but is obviously up higher.

If so, should be an easy fix - buy a new lever, tap out lever pin, insert & line up & pin in. Numrich should have plenty of levers.

Would want to make sure that the tip of the broken lever is removed from the trigger.

The pin is still in place and seems to be pushing the slide up.

The spring may be part of the problem. It only had one flat end. The other is not flattened. I did order a new spring.

The pin seats in the slide. The hammer mechanism won't let go after the gun is fired and lifts the slide up.

The trigger lever is intact.

I would unload it before I did any more work on it. Just sayin...

Remove the Rebound Slide and check to see if Spring has broken.

i am more inclined to believe there is a problem with the trigger lever. I would assemble with clipped end of spring toward trigger however. Lot of these got a coil or so clipped off in the days before reduce power springs were common and they still worked fine as long as not to much was removed. Even if to short then a BB or the like stuck in the slide in front of the spring and they were back in business. I had a Brazilian with a clipped spring and spacer that worked fine that way before I found out about it.

On two occasions Numrich sent me the wrong springs. Not flat on either end and the OD was too large. Plenty on flea bay.

What you are calling "the pin" IS the Trigger Lever. A complete Trigger Lever is mostly round shaped with a ball end a the rebound slide and an eyelet at the opposite end for retention in the trigger. Below is a pic of the trigger lever from Numrich Gun Parts. BTW, cost for this current item is $3.50 in stock. It is item 70 at the following link for a Model 10 no dash. Smith & Wesson Model 10 Revolver Parts, Schematics | Numrich Gun Parts



I can't say that it's broken for certain but in your picture the portion of the shaft that is visible appears to be out of line with the pin for the Trigger Lever in the trigger.

Start by removing the Mainspring. Once that has been done manipulate the details so the hammer is down and the rebound slide is sitting properly. Remove the rebound slide by compressing the spring at the rear and lifting it free and be careful to NOT launch the rebound slide and spring into orbit. What I do is lift the spring just clear of the retention spring and carefully release the tension slowly, after that you can simply sift the rebound slide clear. Next remove the Hammer and then the Trigger. Once you remove the trigger give tug on the trigger lever, when you do I suspect that you'll find that it's now composed of two parts. Press out the retention pin and swap in a new trigger lever and you will have a properly functioning revolver.

PS; you will also want to hit Brownell's and purchase a Rebound Spring Removal Tool. They are darned near essential.

Pretty sure those are snap caps...could be wrong

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aka "Mooncat"

Without removing the pin, I see the ball at the end of the shaft. I will check for bending of parts.

Those are snap cap duds to prevent excess slamming of the hammer.

The rebound slide got a burr on the top that grabbed the hammer after firing. The hammer dragged it up and jammed. I stoned the burr flat and now the weapon cycles perfectly. I'm going to the range today to find out how well the beast works with real bullets.


Went to the range but they had no ammo for me so I blew away some 45ACP and 22s with my 1911s. Full size and Browning 1911-22.

I took the pistol to a gunsmith in Wisconsin. It cost 217.00 parts and labor. One hundred rounds without a glitch.

So what was the problem???

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Jim
S&WCA #819

So what parts did the 'smith replace and what was his labor?

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Old paratrooper in NC