38-2, Trigger Not Resetting, Cylinder Indexes, Hammer Not Moving

NCBeagle · #1 02-27-2021, 06:25 PM

Took a 38-2 from my carry rotation to the range today. Two rounds went off without a hitch and then...mushy trigger and silence.

I unloaded the revolver to test function. First trigger pull and everything functioned normally through the hammer drop, but the trigger did not reset fully. I pulled again and the cylinder indexed but trigger did not engage the sear and hammer did not move. Thereafter, the problem appears maybe 1/6 of the time.

I am not short-stroking the trigger. Is this a reboud slide spring issue? Something with the sear?

This is a 38-2 with forged internals. Bought it NIB a few years ago. It sat in the box for 20 years or so. Springs should be original. Thoughts? Probably put 200-220 flawless rounds through this before today.

armorer951 · #2 02-27-2021, 06:30 PM

If you feel comfortable removing the sideplate I would check for a broken frame stud, perhaps on the rebound area or hammer.

Prior to removal or the sideplate, unscrew the mainspring strain screw a couple of turns to take the tension off of the hammer. Remember not to cycle the action with the sideplate off.

NCBeagle · #3 02-27-2021, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armorer951

If you feel comfortable removing the sideplate I would check for a broken frame stud, perhaps on the rebound area or hammer.

Prior to removal or the sideplate, unscrew the mainspring strain screw a couple of turns to take the tension off of the hammer. Remember not to cycle the action with the sideplate off.

Will do. Popping the side plate off after dinner. Would it still function more than 50% of the time with a broken frame stud?

armorer951 · #4 02-27-2021, 06:49 PM

Perhaps not. The rebound spring may be suspect....as you described the trigger not returning fully.

Muley Gil · #5 02-27-2021, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armorer951

If you feel comfortable removing the sideplate I would check for a broken frame stud, perhaps on the rebound area or hammer.

Prior to removal or the sideplate, unscrew the mainspring strain screw a couple of turns to take the tension off of the hammer. Remember not to cycle the action with the sideplate off.

Ain't no strain screw in a M38. It's a J frame.

With the revolver empty, remove the grips, cock the hammer and there should be a hole in the strut that is surrounded by the coil mainspring. Insert the end of a large paper clip into the hole and slowly lower the hammer.

Now you can remove the side plate screws.

armorer951 · #6 02-27-2021, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muley Gil

Ain't no strain screw in a M38. It's a J frame.

With the revolver empty, remove the grips, cock the hammer and there should be a hole in the strut that surrounds the coil mainspring. Insert the end of a large paper clip into the hole and slowly lower the hammer.

Now you can remove the side plate screws.

Yes sir you're right. Thanks for pointing that out. Frankly, I'm a little embarrassed by this. You would think I would be very familiar with model numbers by now. Old age is definitely setting in.

Toyman · #7 02-27-2021, 09:27 PM

ARMORER 951 you have earned more than 1 mulligans !!!!

NCBeagle · #8 02-27-2021, 09:33 PM

Well, I just spent 40 minutes looking for the strain screw (just kidding).

Popped the side plate off. Nothing obviously broken. I am not skilled enough to say if the trigger/ sear geometry is “off.” Studs are intact.

Upon further inspection, the trigger feels like it meets resistance from the cylinder stop. When the malfunction occurs (sometimes), have to give the trigger a little push forward to seat the cylinder stop. That’s not always the case.

I don’t think there’s anything catastrophic here. Maybe I’ll take a closer look at the cylinder stop/spring and then just plan on replacing all of the springs just to see how it turns out. In the meantime, this does not need to be a carry gun. I have quite a few other J frames to take its spot.

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armorer951 · #9 02-27-2021, 09:42 PM

Very good photos....

A little dry, in terms of lubricant, but I'm not sure adding a bit would help.

That's a fairly shiny spot (rub mark) on the outside of the hand too, but it's not in an unusual place. Any weird drag marks on the back of the sideplate? Sometimes the back side of the plate will give you a clue.

Carter

NCBeagle · #10 02-27-2021, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armorer951

Very good photos....

A little dry, in terms of lubricant, but I'm not sure adding a bit would help.

That's a fairly shiny spot (rub mark) on the outside of the hand too, but it's not in an unusual place. Any weird drag marks on the back of the sideplate? Sometimes the back side of the plate will give you a clue.

Carter

Yes sir. Dry as a bone. I’ll definetely add a little lube. Inside of sideplate looks fine. Nothing unusual.

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Toyman · #11 02-27-2021, 10:33 PM

Armorer 951 the trigger return spring is blue in color, isn't that indicative of a performance center gun or at least a spring from the performance center?

NCBeagle · #12 02-27-2021, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toyman

Armorer 951 the trigger return spring is blue in color, isn't that indicative of a performance center gun or at least a spring from the performance center?

That would be interesting. I have the box for this revolver. It's certainly not a Performance Center gun. Then again, I've not seen the blue spring before. Googled it before posting pictures and found a few references to light blue rebound slide spring and assumed it to be a variant of normal.

armorer951 · #13 02-28-2021, 08:27 AM

Definitely a different spring than you would normally see. I'm not sure when they started using those. Should be fine as far as operation of the action is concerned.

stu1ritter · #14 02-28-2021, 09:00 AM

The last several J frame rebound springs I've bought from S&W have been blue.

Stu