I have Ren-Wax, I use Ren-wax, I like Ren-Wax! It's a terrific product!

The subject of Ren-wax keeps popping up along with questions on its use on firearms, so I figured I'd throw in my two cents.

I truly believe that Ren-Wax is an excellent product, so much so I use it more on household items, vehicles, collectibles, etc. than I do on guns. The reason I don't use it on guns 99% of the time is because I tend to shoot them on a regular basis and properly coating them with the Ren-Wax is a bit tedious to me. After a gun is cleaned, all oils and solvents should be totally removed prior to application of the Ren-Wax. When the gun is fired the next time this process has to be repeated once again.

I do agree that for a gun designated a "Safe Queen, "Wall Hangar", or special needs gun that only gets used on a rare occasion, the process of properly applying the Ren-Wax is worth the trouble - at least to me, however on a regular basis - not so much.

I am at the Range at least once a week, sometimes more and take multiple guns to shoot so doing this whole ritual would be more than I am willing to do - aside from which, Ren-Wax won't protect a firearm any better than a thin coating (wipe down) of a good Gun Oil will, so I don't see the point. To me the Ren -Wax is a great way to enhance the look and offer some protection of a pristine firearm that is not a daily shooter.

After cleaning a gun it takes me all of 20 seconds with an Oil Rag to wipe the gun down for storage. Simple, effective and quick - works for me.

For those here who like to spend the time and effort to remove all the Oil & Solvents and then apply and buff the Ren-Wax - "go for it" and enjoy. What makes this hobby so great is that everyone enjoys a different aspect of the hobby. Some enjoy Reloading, some enjoy cleaning, fiddle - futzing, etc and I am not judging here, just saying what works for me.

And you????

I'm not a fanatical Ren waxer, but I've made a big cut in the time required for gun surface degreasing before Ren application, using a quick spritz of MC25 from Mil Comm.

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Slava Ukraini!

My sentiments exactly chief. Well said.

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Terry Lester

all i have or want are shooters. i enjoy seeing the guns posted that look so great. never tried the renwax for reasons you expressed plus i'm a little lazy at times. krs/kenny

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Too good

I use RenWax on safe dwellers only. My shooters don't get to enjoy that luxury.

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SWCA #3713

I tend to agree. Once I discovered Ren wax, I decided I will treat my guns to a once annual coat or so, but for general use the wipe down will suffice.

All my guns get shot, frequently.

I just received my first jar of Ren Wax. My intent is to get some of my older guns cleaned up, waxed and then photographed. Other than getting a gun looking spiffy for sale, I doubt I will use it much.

Thank you for the write-up. I thought about getting some Ren Wax but now I won't. You just saved me $23.

I just did not want some new comers to Ren-Wax to think it is a be-all and end-all in the firearms maintenance "game". While it is a good product it wasn't developed specifically for guns and does not replace some good ole' erl.

I've used Birchwood Casey Gunstock Wax on blued firearms since '77. It keeps rust off carry weapons and helps with cleanup.

I've voiced my opinion every time Ren Wax is mentioned. Despite the fact that I don't wax my guns, if I did, I would never spend that kind of money on WAX. Good old carnuba wax will work just as well in my humble opinion.

J.

I treat it like Frank’s hot sauce.

I put that [stuff] on everything.

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- Post No Bills -

I will let a picture do the talking.
Both have been subjected to the evil expensive RenWax....
IMG_1109AB.jpg

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NRA Endowment Member

I use Kellogg's Professional products ( Sandusky, Ohio) #110 or 105 pure silicone applied with a treated piece of real lambs wool. Why lambs wool? It gets into all the cracks and crevices that a cloth will not get into. I have been using this since 1968, when I was shown this, and none of my +/- 50 guns has ever developed a spot of rust or a freckle.

That being said, even If I were to use another product ( rem oil, Sheath, shooter's choice etc.) I still would treat a 6-7" square of real lambs wool and ditch the cloth. It is not as thorough as the wool

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Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

My experiences mirror others here and I use is mostly on wood now. I will occasionally, use Renwax before I photograph a gun, but that is about it. After our fearless leader once discussed the virtues of RIG Rags, I bought & used RIG, and I am no longer a huge proponent of Renwax for my guns.

Instead of spray oil or wiping down with light gun oil, I now run a RIG rag over every gun after I clean them. Once the sheepskin is charged with RIG gun grease, it will wipe down a dozen revolvers before more grease is needed. So fast and will take no longer than 60 seconds to apply to the typical revolver. It is thick and seems to last on a gun forever, so if stored for long periods of time, guns are still protected.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Is it any different from paste wax?

I've been using RIG and lamb skin wool applicator for years and it works amazingly well! So good I've never had reason to try anything else.

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Regards
Paul

Ren-Wax is synthetic and I believe Paste Wax isn't - so how much that matters - who knows! Some use Johnson's and they say it works as well as Ren-Wax does.

Rig Grease is THE BEST when it comes to preservation and protection - it's my "go-to" and recommendation for long term storage.

For every week shooters, guns that are handled and drooled over often, it's a bit messy. For those a quick wipe with a rag soaked with Breakfree CLP works terrific.

Looking good, John.

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Chris S.
Fort Lauderdale, FL

I use Ren Wax on dagger, swords, and firearms used in displays, but have used regular auto wax on working guns. I prefer oil, but on a firearm that may be carried against my clothing, I've used auto wax with good results. I got that tip from a S&W employee probably 20 to 25 years ago. Some auto waxes have polishing compound in them, so you'll want to watch what you buy though.

FWIW: Last year this subject of microcrystaline wax was brought up on this forum. Someone mentioned that an American company based in Ohio made a product just like Ren Wax. The company is called E.J. Wheaton Co., and I was able to buy three of their products: their wax, gun cleaner/lubricating oil and furniture polish. I have no relation to this company other than being a very satisfied customer.

Look and judge.




Not sticky or tacky. Shiny.

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- Post No Bills -

Will it stop my cylinder from getting turn lines or my M&P frame from cracking or tell me when my model 10-7 was made ?

My take is that if museums use it to protect their priceless artifacts, I’m gonna use with confidence.

And I couldn’t care less about the $25 cost (200 ml) for several years worth of protection. How much do your guns cost??

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Pass it on.
Mark

It has its place.

Works well on long gun stocks too,but I don’t have the patience to use it on guns that see regular use either

It’ll cure your asthma, too !

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- Post No Bills -

I have mentioned it before, but it bears repeating. I first found out about it in the 80s when I was getting my photography degree. It prevents getting fingerprints on glossy photographic paper, so think of blued steel with a barrier to fingerprint acids and salts.

And it would seal them from sulfur compounds in the air from attacking any un-fixed silver in the emulsion, preventing the atmospheric sulphur from converting it to silver sulfide, turning the blacks to dingy silverish-brown. Think of blued steel being sealed from atmospheric pollutants and moisture..

Try THAT with a "rig rag"

I use it. I like it. I also use Johnson's and sometimes just oil and rag. The Ren wax is hands down the best at making things pretty. No question. I think the Johnson's does as good a job at protection. Might be better at protection than the oil and rag, but I don't know. I've never had a problem with any of them if properly applied. Here's a nickel. You owe me three cents.

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The best I can with what I got

What’s the best way to prepare the gun before waxing?

Rut Roh........

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Clean the gun and get all of the oil and solvent residue off first,then wax it.

I have a milk crate full of different stuff I use on different guns, all are different some sit some get shot some are pristine some are not.
I have just about everything listed and also I use a product called Gibbs. I love it and it's mainly for shooters it lubes and protects. I use RenWax and Johnson's on some of my commemoratives I have also used some car wax/polishes on some older guns that get oxidation on them over the years.
I also have a spray silicone that works well, I think that liquid wrench (blue can) does a good job on covering scratches on a rougher looking shooter in blue. Rig is an excellent product that I use on some that are put up for long time storage but may not be the best sometimes for one that is being used as it attracts dirt and powder.
I always like to take a gun that looks good when it's oiled up and take 3M polish that I have had for 20 years and a blue shop paper towel and polish it up and show friends how much brown (old oil, oxidation and years of dirt) that comes off of them and then they glow.
Once you puddle with Smiths and see the many different finishes they applied on them over the years you kind of get an understanding on what will work and get the results you're looking for... well some people do.
And to each his own as long as you're happy I say go with it.
It kind of like the motor oil argument every one usually has one they favor.

With all this being said, there is definitely a place for wax vs oil on the externals of a firearm. Oil film on the outside has a tendency to collect dust in some environments and really doesn't stay on well with a lot of handling in hunting situations. There are a number of professional hunters that I have hunted and associated with that prefer some type of wax on their working guns exterior. It seems to work well for me too. I don't particularly like stainless guns so when I hunt in places like Alaska, where I get rained on daily, I use Johnson paste wax on the exterior of my rifles. It works great and stays with the gun through a lot of handling. Blued guns don't finger print and it will seal a wooden stock that may have some finish flaws that would allow moisture to get in. I hear that some use various types of automotive wax but the Johnson Paste wax seems to do a good job. I've had the same can for about a 100 years and it's the same stuff I use as release agent when I glass bed a rifle stock. That same can has probably done about a million of them. (I'm only exaggerating a little)

I have a crate of every cleaner, wax, solvent, polish or whatever you want because I’ve taken vintage cars to car shows for 25 years. I’ve tried every miracle product from most vendors at the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. Not to be outdone, I’ve collected Hoppe’s, REM oil, CLP, Wilson Combat products and a myriad of others for cleaning my guns. What I consistently use to clean and degrease the outside of the guns is MPRO7. Apply, wait a few minutes, wipe of oil and powder. It is non-petroleum so you can travel on a plane with it. Then I gently apply RenWax with my finger and wipe it off with an old t-shirt or clean lint free cotton rag. If RenWax is good enough for Rubiranch and Doc44, it’s good enough for me.

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SWCA 3255 SWHF 615

I've used it, along with some paste car wax on revolvers.......with good results. I wore a pair of not broke in Redwings the other day, and when I got home put some Renwax on them, and was really surprised at the shine after buffing........

Just so happens I was wondering about preservation of the grips on my Models 19, 29, and 629 wheel guns. Is this what I need or is there another option for just the grips? I oil the weapons every time I use them. Works for me.

reminds me of a young lady i used to know. krs

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Too good

she promised not to tell.

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Too good

I have used this wax for 25 years on the ivory and fossil ivory jewelry I carve. Also put a coating of protection on my claw and teeth jewelry. Never put it on a gun and probably never will.

About surface prep:
Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I just thoroughly wipe the gun down with a clean rag then apply RenWax, let it dry and buff to a shine. The guns come out looking great. Maybe the wax combines with what little oil is left on the finish?

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You're shy a few manners.

Works well,just don’t shoot waxed magnas while wearing fleece gloves lol

Ren Wax works for me - I think it brings out the beauty of older guns quite well, particularly for photography.

John

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- Cogito, ergo armatus sum -

Other than making things pretty I find Ren wax particularly useful on stainless steel wheel guns. Once applied, cleaning the carbon and residue around the cylinder is much easier.

Also use it to seal all my wood stocks except for oil finished stocks, especially the unfinished areas. I avoid silicone because it is problematic for future refinishing. Once silicone gets into the wood grain you can pretty much forget any finish sticking.

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Caper

I have some and it's okay, over priced and not necessarily better than good ol floor wax, but definitely don't use it on old, antique leather like it says on the can! Ask me how I know. lol

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Dave Ramsey Cultist

"Ren Wax works for me - I think it brings out the beauty of older guns quite well, particularly for photography.

John"

I'm 2 months and 21 days younger than the 6",and
2 days older than the 4".

I'm pretty sure they both "work" better than I do.....

Ray