Is it possible to lubricant the workings of a k frame without removing the side plates?
What screwdriver do you use and advice on not boogering the screw slots.

Yes, it is possible. a drop on either side of the hammer, a drop on either side of the trigger, then cycle the trigger a few times. Some people will cock the hammer and add a drop of oil to the internals that way. You can also put a drop of oil on the hand in the slot in the recoil shield.

Revolvers don't require a lot of lube.

I open the side plate and lube every metal to metal contact moving part with a moly paste. Even on the sear. I lube the cylinder stud, swing out arm stud, the hand ejector shaft too. It will lessen the trigger pull and smooth it out.

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Plant garlic in the fall

Good answers above. You will want “hollow ground” screwdrivers or tips which fit the head slots the best for disassembly.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Any idea what the screw slot size is?

Use very little or will have mess inside , my M19-2 bought pawn shop.

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My suggestion would be to get a gunsmith screwdriver set from Brownells. They come with interchangeable tips for a variety of sizes and they're hollow-ground. I've been using a Chapman set for around 25 years and it works well for me. I'm sure others will come by with other recommendations.

Back in the day I would always put a couple drops of oil down the hammer slot. At the end of my first bullseye season, the old girl was just weeping oil something fierce.

This is what I do now, but I use a red synthetic grease that I believe used to be made by Birchwood Casey. No oil weep, and no need for repeated lubrication.

My go to screwdrivers are Grace hollow ground screwdrivers. I have never buggered a screw using the correct tool for the job.

210-4
150-3
210-2
120-1
Brownell's sells these bits as a set, with a handle, for Smith and Wesson revolvers.
The trick to not buggering the screw head is to (of course) use the proper sized hollow ground bit or screwdriver, while maintaining sufficient downward pressure, to keep it in the slot. Hollow ground screwdrivers and bits have parallel sides, that fit in the slot, making full contact, with the sides and bottom of the slot. General purpose screw drivers are tapered, and try to "walk" out of the slot, when turned.

Thanks for that info.
I noticed that my gunsmith set doesn't have a bit that fits the screws in thickness and width close enough..

Quick and effective method for me is to take the stocks off and, using an aerosol synthetic oil and a spray extension, spray it up inside the mechanism. Almost certainly, the oil will get into every crack and crevice protecting the parts and lubricating as well. Leave it set overnight and the vehicle part of the spray will evaporate, leaving only the lightest protective coating inside.

Of course I am almost exclusively buying 1900 to pre-WWII guns so will always strip out all parts, clean and inspect them before reassembly. It takes a long time for the interior to get dirty and synthetic oil will not cause varnish build-up over the years, unlike some petroleum based oils & greases.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Revolvers require very little lube. A few drops as posted above once maybe twice a year. You're more likely to have issues over lubing a revolver than under lubing.

Check out the youtube videos on this. There are many. Gunblue490 is a great resource.

the recommended screwdriver is a hollow ground one that fits the slot perfectly. You may have to grind one to make it fit perfectly, although I've started with the Forster #16 and it fits pretty well, but it's dependent on the vintage of your gun. The slot widths have varied a bit over the many years these guns have been produced.

Definitely stone off the sharp corners a bit.

When you have the right tools and technique, it's very easy to get the sideplate off. It's not a huge deal and will help you keep your gun running well indefinitely.

I'm glad to see that grease is getting some love on this thread. Most threads about lube say I'm crazy. I found that boron nitride grease is amazing stuff on any sliding or rotating part, and doesn't seem to harden and dry out nearly as fast as lithium grease.

Much of this school of thought came from working with machineguns, specifically M2HBs and Mk19s. We found that 90w (gear oil) and automotive grease kept them running when lesser lubricants burned off or failed to work. The main issue is cleaning: unless you have a solvent tank it's almost impossible to get all that grease off manually and make the armory NCOIC happy.

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Psalm 27:2

Spray can of Rem-Oil and the little plastic tube sprayer .
Take the grips off and go outside . Lay the pistol on an old towel / shop rag , open the cylinder and spray into any / all openings . Whereever you can get the tube . Shake off excess .
Let it drip dry onto towel/rag for an hour or so .
You can clean it the same way ... spray cleaner into all openings , let dry then spray Rem-Oil and shake out excess and let drip dry .
Spray cleaners and spray lubes are your friends...they keep you from buggering up screw heads .
Once a year you can take the side plate off for a inspection and cleaning .
And I use spray white Lithium grease with the little spray tube .
Had a new SA Ruger that got the spray grease to ease the loading gate operation and helped the trigger pull to boot !
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

I use nothing but a moly paste or anti seeze. It has a higher % percentage of moly in it. Don’t use too much. It will smooth out the action, lessen the trigger pull by 50% right away and more as it works into the metal. Apply moly to every metal to metal contact moving part.

Moly
Eliminates all wear
Reduces friction
Fights corrosion
Prevents galling.

The sear will have a very smooth let off.

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Plant garlic in the fall

While it is certainly possible to sneak some oil into the works through the hammer and trigger spaces, you can not clean out the inside without removing the sideplate. Without properly cleaning out all the old dried oil, gunk and debris, putting more oil in there will not do that much and you would only be adding more gunk IMHO.

This would be a perfect opportunity to learn how to disassemble, clean, properly lube and reassemble a Smith & Wesson Revolver. Once you master one - they are all pretty much the same so you will not hesitate or be intimidated to do this in the future. It is not all that difficult assuming you have a set of Hollow Ground Screwdrivers available to you and have some basic mechanical skills.

There are some pretty good video's on MidwayUSA and some other Youtube channels you can watch.

Brownell's Hollow Ground Magna-bits and their "Law Enforcement" Magnetic Handle is what I'd recommend for a screw driver set. IMHO they are the best you can buy for Smithin'!

Is Ballistol used as a cleaner and a lubricant or just a cleaner? seems like it leaves a heavy coating if you spray it on and then leave it awhile. seems like it might gum up the innards if you used it as a lubricant.

I bought a nice set from Brownells.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

It's the Original CLP ... Cleans Lubricates and Protects :
Firearms
Wood
Leather
Plastic
Electrical Equiptment
Motor Vehicles
Cleans Black Powder Firearms
Fishing Tackle
Shoes , gloves , holsters , slings , saddles , horses , chickens and pigs ... only joking about the horses, chickens and pigs !

Spray it on , let it work and wipe it off .

It contains Anti-Oxidants and Medical oils for cuts and bug bites .
Use as insect repellant and skin softener...

Check out what all it can do at Ballistol - The Original CLP - Cleans, Lubricates, Preserves
The stuff is Amazing
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

I've been messing in the innards of S&W revolvers for 50 years on an "advanced kitchen-table gunsmith" basis, so I know how to get in there. But I'll do it only when necessary.

Frankly, some guns will never need to be opened up. If a revolver does nightstand duty plus a trip to the range now and then, all it will ever need is a drop or two of oil slipped in via the hammer slot and maybe a once-in-a-blue-moon shot of something like Gun Scubber, followed by the oil drops. Actually, a revolver can live a pretty active life and not need anything more, except more frequently.

I've opened many old revolvers that would barely turn to find unbelievable gunk, and I honestly believe every one had been greased. I know grease formulas are better nowadays, but it will hold dirt more than oil will, and you can't refresh it without taking off the sideplate. If S&W thought it was a good idea, looks like they'd recommend it, but I've never found any recommendation except a good, light gun oil.

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Pisgah

The answer to the op is no you have to remove the side plate to disassemble and clean the revolver first. Then during assembly I put a tad of moly paste on every metal to metal contact moving part. Don’t forget to lube the studs too.

One by one I clean and lube every gun at least once a year.

I purchased an 1895 h&r premier 22 revolver that I need two fingers to shoot double action. I figure there’s a dump truck load of grime in side it. It’s screaming for help.

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Plant garlic in the fall