I have tried off and on for a couple of months now to remove the front sight on my 686. So far all I have accomplished is to break off a small piece of punch in the hole on one side. Going from the other side, I have apparently crushed the pin sa few thousandths, but haven't moved anything. In short, I have a mess on my hands. I have just about come to the conclusion that I am going to have to drill out the pin. The smallest drill bit I have been able to locate is .060 in diameter. I also have a new pin that came with a Millet sight that measures .060.
I don't know whether to try to use the oversize stuff or to order a .055 drill and some .055 pins from somewhere like Brownells.

Also, my drill press is a pretty big one. The chuck will hold at least a 5/8" bit. Not sure it will grab a bit less than a sixteenth, if it will even hold one that small. The drill press has an adjustable vise on the table, but again, it's probably too big to get the barrel in. Short version, I'll probably have to drill it by hand.
I talked to one gunsmith who said he could fix it. He had no idea what it would cost and has about 80 guns waiting to be worked on.

If I do decide to try to drill it out, what sort of fit should the roll pin have? Is it an interference fit? If so, how much? I'd like to be able to swap front sights without too much hassle, but of course I don't want the sight falling out on its own either.

I have tried off and on for a couple of months now to remove the front sight on my 686. So far all I have accomplished is to break off a small piece of punch in the hole on one side. Going from the other side, I have apparently crushed the pin sa few thousandths, but haven't moved anything. In short, I have a mess on my hands. I have just about come to the conclusion that I am going to have to drill out the pin. The smallest drill bit I have been able to locate is .060 in diameter. I also have a new pin that came with a Millet sight that measures .060.
I don't know whether to try to use the oversize stuff or to order a .055 drill and some .055 pins from somewhere like Brownells.

Also, my drill press is a pretty big one. The chuck will hold at least a 5/8" bit. Not sure it will grab a bit less than a sixteenth, if it will even hold one that small. The drill press has an adjustable vise on the table, but again, it's probably too big to get the barrel in. Short version, I'll probably have to drill it by hand.
I talked to one gunsmith who said he could fix it. He had no idea what it would cost and has about 80 guns waiting to be worked on.

If I do decide to try to drill it out, what sort of fit should the roll pin have? Is it an interference fit? If so, how much? I'd like to be able to swap front sights without too much hassle, but of course I don't want the sight falling out on its own either.

Take it to a gun smith before you screw it up and be pissed at yourself.

If there were a gunsmith available who could complete the job in a reasonable time and without costing more than a new barrel, I would have probably already done so. If that 'smith exists around here, I haven't found him yet.

If he does exist, he isn't anywhere near me either.

Nonetheless, probably sage advice.

Buy some drill bits, or a 0-60 set. Learn to use your drill press. You should be able to use a smaller bit and let it follow the center of the roll pin. Drill it out some thru the center and it will loosen and be easier to press/punch out. I like to use the factory solid pins instead of the roll pins. If you're going to work on these guns a few quality drifts/punches and cup punches are a necessity to keep you out of trouble.

Absolutely do NOT try to drill it out using an electric hand drill! That is a guaranteed way to break drill bits in the pin hole and greatly increase your problems.

The way to tackle it is to use a drill press and select a drill bit smaller than the max diameter of the roll pin per tomcatt's suggestion. Use plenty of cutting fluid and a speed suitable for that size drill bit. Remember than getting drill bit stubs broken off in the hole is gonna be a whole lot more expensive to remove than having a gunsmith do it. It will require an EDM machine and an operator skilled enough to set it up without damaging your gun barrel.

epj,

You need to talk to Paul Lawley at Southeastern Guns. He probably can help you.

WJR

I'll give him a call Monday. Unfortunatly, Sotheastern is on the other side of town from me, but I've about run out of options other than farming this out.

I'm thinking the $150-ish (including one way ship) to have S&W mill the front ramp and install a patridge sounds reasonable and safe.

My experience says if you don't have THE tool(s) for the job, pass.

--jcd

thats crazy 150.00 to replace the front sight blade. if you put it in the drill press make sure the roll pin is vertical run the drill about 2500rpm and peck it, just lightly so it doesnt catch and break off. try pecking on a scrap piece of steel first.

It would be crazy if I had the tools and the ability. If one has both of those things, by all means...

I've been balking at spending a whole lot to install a $30 sight. Certainly not $150. As I posted earlier, I replaced the blade on an old Ruger in about 15-20 minutes using a broken drill bit for a punch. Couldn't have been easier. It's one of those parts that really should be "user servicable". I almost bought a GP100 instead of the 686,and the interchangable front sight on the GP was one of its selling points. I'm glad I bought the 686, but sure wish the sight was a little less troublesome. If I were going to spend a couple of bills on it, I'd get it nachined to use interchangeable blades like the Classic series.

I made a front sight change on my 617 by snapping off the shank of the appropriate sized drill (is it a #54? a #55?) and using it as a punch. I'd try that from whichever side looks like you could drive best. Those are tiny drills. I don't believe for a minute you could drill that spring steel roll pin out. They'll just snap off, catching, not cutting. Hold the inch or so of drill shank with needle nose pliers and tap gently with a carpet tack hammer or some such.

I would send it back to S&W. Take off the grips and take out the cylinder. Gun parts can be shipped via UPS much cheaper than a complete gun and they do not need those parts for this repair. I found S&W repairs to be quite reasonable and would use them again in a heartbeat.

The repaired cylinder end play on a pre model 17 for $35.00.

Do "gun parts" have to be shipped overnight? I suspect the BATF would still consider the serial numbered frame to be a "gun", even if it lacked all the parts necessary to fire. If in fact the gun sans cylinder assy can be shipped on the cheap, sending it to S&W might be a viable option.

Don't drill it, you'll make it worse.