Good afternoon/evening all,

I just registered for this forum and gottas say...just like the Luger forum and the Sig forum, this seems to be awesome.

I just purchased used a 19-3, 6". The owner said he removed the target hammer, target trigger and goncalvo grips. In place he put...well...not any of those.

It fires well enough, but I'd really like to put them back in so I had a few questions:

1. I was told that the target trigger from a Model 29 is the same one. True or false?

2. I suspect the guy who removed the side plate to do all of this may have not replaced the parts exactly right, as the cylinder closes easily enough, but has to be tapped really hard to push it out. Before I take this apart (I'm no stranger to mechanical items and I am excellent with semi auto smithing), are there any little tidbist I should be aware of?

3. If I want to return it to original condition, are there any things I need to know about the parts (hammer, trigger, grips) I need to know? For example, on a Luger P-08, if you really want original, if the part you're replacing has a two digit number on it, you need to find another part with that same 2 digit number for originality.

Thanks much and I look forward to being a part of an awesome forum
Mark

Welcome. The triggers will work between K/L/N but not hammers.
I wouldnt tap the cylinder, leave open until resolved and start with tightening the ejector rod. LH threads on that 19 and use several empty cases in the cylinder for support. Might check the FAQ in the Smithing section of this forum until someone comes along with more detailed answers than I have. Good luck and welcome aboard.
ETA:
Here ya go...
FAQ

That’s for sure NOT how that works on a Luger unless the express goal is an attempt to mislead or outright scam someone.

That’s specifically how to attempt to fake originality with a Luger.

My apologies. I should have been a bit more clear on what I was getting at.

I'm not looking to "fake" my 19-3. I want to make sure that the parts I'm getting for it, wherever I can find them, are correct for the gun and are period correct. As well as they fit, for sure.

As far as the Luger, it wouldn't be unless you're trying to hide it. For example, you manufacture a part and then just stamp it with the numbers. THAT would be shady and the new manufacture part may not fit correctly. IF I look for an ORIGINAL part with the same two digits (if you know the numbering system, then you know there would be multiple parts with the same numbers) that is NOT "faking it". That would be a period correct part. Moreover, Lugers after the war were reworked in Eastern Europe and had mismatched parts...I own one...typically called a "VoPo Rework" and they're legit. Especially if, when I sold it, I handed them the part I replaced with the gun so it's a known issue.

Well your 19-3 was a revolver that originally came with options. So the previous owner may know what it had, but without a factory letter or it’s original box with end label, you can’t be absolutely sure what it originally had.

But yes, you could use a 29 target trigger if you’d like. It’s been my experience that it will “probably” work. The trigger and hammer tend to work best as a pair. When I’ve swapped them around, I have found that the single action feel ends up slightly different in both revolvers from which they came.

And you could source the goncalo alves target stocks... I think a 19-3 would use the ones we refer to as “football targets.”

If you are the kind of revolver shooter that enjoys double action shooting, there is definitely a chance that you won’t like the change to a wide target trigger. Myself, I find that trigger to be completely unfriendly to double action shooting. I’ve found that I’m not alone in that, but opinions vary.

They have a 19-3 on everygunpart.com
It has most parts , but not everything . If you send them an email they might be able to tell you what kind of trigger and hammer it has . The parts , frame and barrel probably aren't in the best shape , but for the price you're getting a lot of parts .

S&W revolvers of the era of yours could have been ordered with either the .265" standard service serrated trigger or the target serrated trigger. The later .312 smooth Ranger trigger will also fit. Could have been either a service or target hammer. If you don't have the original box you really don't know what it left the factory wearing.

Next is what do you want on the revolver? Depends on how you plan to use it.

Older wooden grips have gotten pricey in the last few years. Some of it deals with scarcity. Some with the import of certain woods/grip materials currently being legally restricted. The same "what are you going to do with it" definitely applies to grip choice. The factory target grips were/are primarily a marketing ploy IMO; they fit few hands. So many other choices these days, one or more of them will be a great shooting fit for you.

Welcome to the Forum.

I agree with the "What are you going to do with it" line of thinking. If you want to make it a target revolver or a hunting revolver where you will shoot single action 99% of the time, go with the .400" grooved target trigger and target hammer. If you intend to shoot double action, go with a smooth .265" or .312" trigger. Combine with either the standard hammer or the target hammer.

If you want it to be like it came from the factory, you need to have the box in hand that lists the options or get a historical letter that lists how it ships. The box will have the serial number on it. The letter costs $100.

I prefer aftermarket grips that fit my hand better than the factory targets.

__________________
John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Thank you everyone for the assist. I am going to try and figure out getting the parts.

I'm thinking I want a competition type of revolver, so having a target hammer and wider trigger seems to work for my fingers. I kind of like the wider, flatter triggers. I like the one on the Luger I own, so I guess I will try it. I do consider myself warned regarding post #7.

To anyone: How do I identify the target hammer/triggers mentioned above? I know Minconrevo and Muley Gil gave numbers that look like dimensions. What are they dimensions of?

The width of the curved part where your finger contacts it is what varies between standard, semi-target and target width, and this is what you measure. They may also be serrated (grooved) or smooth.

For the hammer, it’s the width of the “spur” or thumb piece that varies, again by its width. From there down, they are the same within a given frame size. Again you’ll probably encounter about three widths, with service type being the same width as the hammer body, then one a little wider and a “full target” type that is very wide. A quick search on this forum will probably bring pictures.

I’m not going to get into all the variations of factory target grips through the years but fortunately the right ones for your 19-3 are among the more common issue.

Froggie