Ruger Ejector Rod Removal

SW CQB 45 · #1 04-07-2021, 11:15 PM

Howdy

I bought me a 1980s Ruger Speed Six. It was in good condition and shot decent for a heavy trigger press (Have a Wolff spring kit on order)

it had 40 years of grunge built up in corners that took some elbow grease to remove. I can feel drag on cylinder rotation.... so it must be dirty, grimy etc inside the cylinder.

The cylinder will not come apart. My guess, someone in the past used loctite (maybe red) on the ejector rod.

Since cylinder rotation is counter clockwise... its reverse thread and heavy heat from a heat gun and penetrating oil have been unsuccessful. I have used wet leather and vice grips on the ejector rod in and it spins on the leather.

The ejector rod end is .250" in diameter with the knurled area at .255"

any other tricks or tools that might help me get this apart with zero damage?

the last image is a red circle on my guess where the ejector rod and extractor thread together. I got it hot to the point of needing gloves and no dice on loosening.

TIA

Gunhacker · #2 04-08-2021, 02:46 AM

I pulled out my Jerry Kuhnhausen Ruger DA Shop Manual to check the disassembly procedure, you're going about it correctly, that is turning in the correct direction.

The ejector rod and extractor on these earlier Ruger DA's are screwed together in the same fashion as S&W, your assumption about how/where they connect is correct.

Since using leather and vice grips does not furnish a firm enough hold on the ejector rod (I know, thanks Capt. Obvious), try this.

A wooden clothes pin (the ones with the spring), put the ejector rod in the notches of the jaw and then clamp down on the clothes pin with a bench vice or a C-clamp, and turn the cylinder.

Just like a S&W, make sure you have empty cases in the cylinder to support the extractor star and take the rotational stress off of the tiny extractor locating pins.

These Speed-Six revolvers are great guns, I have one from 1979. Wolff springs help, be sure to round off (radius) the square edges of the hammer strut and polish smooth, that will reduce the friction between the strut and the inside of mainspring coil.

WR Moore · #3 04-08-2021, 09:38 AM

If you've got a drill press or lathe and can lock the spindle, chuck the ejector rod in very firmly-although the larger diameter tip doesn't help. And, yes, use at least 2 fired cases in the cylinder.

Alpha426 · #4 04-08-2021, 11:54 AM

When I was an armorer, I used this tool which was available from Brownells in the 80's when revolvers were the primary sidearm of law enforcement.

The tool clamps onto the knurled part of the ejector rod and the brass rods were inserted into the charge holes (spent shell cases can be used). Reverse thread means screw clockwise (righty) to Loosen.

The Ruger cylinder has a star washer which is supposed to be replaced whenever the cylinder is disassembled.

Good luck.

SW CQB 45 · #5 04-08-2021, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpha426

When I was an armorer, I used this tool which was available from Brownells in the 80's when revolvers were the primary sidearm of law enforcement.

The tool clamps onto the knurled part of the ejector rod and the brass rods were inserted into the charge holes (spent shell cases can be used). Reverse thread means screw clockwise (righty) to Loosen.

The Ruger cylinder has a star washer which is supposed to be replaced whenever the cylinder is disassembled.

Good luck.

thanks for the advice.

I knew there was a tool.

is Power Custom still in business? I recall calling them last year and no one would answer. Maybe COVID was the reason no one answered.

Extractor Rod Wrench Remover [PC-ERWR] - $34.99 : GrandMasters L.L.C., Gunsmithing, Ruger 10-22, AK-47, Ruger, AR-15, Ruger Accessories, Gunsmithing Tools and Gun Accessories

I just looked it up on Brownells, its in stock.

if the home methods dont work.... I will ordered me the tool.

Definitely going to try the clothes pin method. I dont have access to a drill press.

thanks to all

SW CQB 45 · #6 04-09-2021, 09:38 PM

I tried to wooden clothespin with zero luck. It still spins.

Might cheap Sears bench vise (4") might not have the strength pressure.

Looks like I will be ordering a tool.

Pig Hunter · #7 04-10-2021, 10:32 AM

If you have or can get a bit of rosin that really helps to get "bite" from your padded jaws.

SW CQB 45 · #8 04-17-2021, 02:18 PM

I ordered this a tool from Brownells. It was a good $35 investment and worked like a charm. ZERO loctite.... but they did over tighten the ejector rod which mashed the washer into the extractor assembly.

I sprayed WD40 about a week ago and let it soak till I got the tool. It dissolved some of the dried grunge but you can also the heavy grunge I broke

the ejector rod was so tight... it flared and swaged the ejector rod by the threaded end. thinking about stoning that side of the ejector rod flat.

BigBill · #9 04-18-2021, 09:19 PM

E gun parts has new rods

Gunhacker · #10 04-21-2021, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SW CQB 45

I ordered this a tool from Brownells. It was a good $35 investment and worked like a charm. ZERO loctite.... but they did over tighten the ejector rod which mashed the washer into the extractor assembly.

I sprayed WD40 about a week ago and let it soak till I got the tool. It dissolved some of the dried grunge but you can also the heavy grunge I broke

the ejector rod was so tight... it flared and swaged the ejector rod by the threaded end. thinking about stoning that side of the ejector rod flat.

Jeezz... the Incredible Hulk must of been working the assembly line that day.