Hi guys, I am looking for a spring loaded trigger stop like the one in the picture, but I can't find it anywhere so I assume this is something that a gunsmith made himself. Have anyone here seen a trigger stop like this before?

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Hello darknes my old friend

Check McMasters- Carr

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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

Curious as to what benefit you may accomplish by installing something like that?

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S&W factory revolver armorer

Maybe I am just a troglodyte but I notice pretty much zero difference between trigger stop and no trigger stop. Of course I am not a serious bullseye shooter.

That is a spring plunger. Mcmaster.com has them, as stated above. Not too likely you will find one short enough, but maybe.

The old time PPC shooters used to glue a piece of pencil eraser to the back of the trigger, then work it down with a fingernail file to what they wanted.

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protocalldesign.com

Just use a Smith & Wesson Yoke Screw

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Stang1911

I have trigger stops on a few of my revolvers and I like them, but it is beyond me why you would want a spring plunger as a trigger stop? Usually it is just a solid set screw.

Stu

The N frame style trigger stop is a rod located inside the trigger return spring housing. This is a trial and error fitted part. Starting with the rod long enough that the trigger will not release the sear, shorten it a couple of thousandths of an inch at a time until the trigger will just release the sear. The K frames used to have a small adjustable cam arrangement at the base of the trigger. These went away about 1980. They can be replaced by the pin. You can make one from the smooth end of a drill bit. 1/8” would probably work. Has to fit inside the spring. My memory of fitting one in a M25 a few years back is that the finished length was something on the order of .710-.715”.

Various styles of these trigger "stops" were popular on PPC revolvers that were converted to a double-action only status by removal of the hammer spur. Many shooters, including me, used these type of stops or something similar, like Protocall mentioned, to "stage" the trigger in double action.

These stops allowed the revolver trigger to be brought to a state of being fully drawn back, and with the cylinder indexed into it's fully rotated and locked position, without the hammer falling. All that was left when the trigger contacted this "soft stop" was to carefully pull the trigger to let-off.
After some practice at this, shooters could essentially mimic the single action mode of very controlled (and more accurate) firing, without changing the grip to cock the gun into single action. This was very useful, particularly at 50 yards, saving time, and keeping the grip stationary.

Certainly not something to be used for combat shooting, but was a useful tool at the range during competition.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

And it works as well as anything purpose-made, and no modifications made to the gun itself to install it. I used one for several years back in the late 1970's.

Thanks for the help. This is not for me, it’s for a customer and I am trying to find a source for this.

I understand that trigger stop is not the right word I was looking for, the intention is not to stop the rearward motion of the trigger after the hammer have been released, but armorer951 explained the intention of it perfectly. I don’t know if you have a different name for this in English or is it just called a trigger stop?

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Hello darknes my old friend

Most of the guns that I saw, plus all the open-class guns that I use/used, have this type of Trigger stop which required drilling/tapping the trigger:


084-010-006WB from Brownells


Once the proper point is determined, a little blue Loctite may help.


RWJ

Called a trigger stop, or trigger over travel stop.

I made a trigger stop by inserting a feeler-gauge behind my trigger (at the appropriate spot). When I found the size that would not allow the hammer to drop, I cut a very small piece of the gauge and trimmed it to be hard to notice, but effective. THEN, I glued it (yes it lasted forever and had to be chiseled off) to the back of the trigger itself. Once the glue (or JB Weld works too) cured, I used jewelers files to reduce the piece until the exact thickness that would let the hammer fall. This filing also served to let me know that the 'glue' was not going to let go (I roughed-up the trigger surface and the piece to help with adhesion). It worked and never disappointed. FYI, I have no experience as a gunsmith, metal worker etc etc.... I guess I just got lucky.
p.s. I never recommend 'trigger stops' on ANY firearm used for hunting or defense; just target shooting.
J.