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  #1  
Old 09-07-2021, 05:45 PM
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Default Spring kits for S&W revolvers.

Caught a post on another forum about installing spring kits in revolvers, which in S&W revolvers usually includes the mainspring (powering the hammer fall) and the trigger return spring.

Looked around on-line, found that Wilson Combat offers a simple spring replacement set for K-L-N revolvers for $16. Decided to give it a try. Ordered two sets, delivered to my house in 5 days for $36 with shipping.

Each set includes a new mainspring and 3 trigger return springs in rated weights of 14, 13, and 12 pounds. Having been inside S&W revolvers many times over the years there are no mysteries involved, fairly straightforward 10 minute job to replace those two springs.

First project is a Model 64, vintage 1979, round-butt 2" received as surplus from the local police department several years ago. Been a while since anyone has been inside this one, so I spent a half-hour total giving it a good scrubbing to remove all the accumulated crud.

Mainspring is pretty easy to understand, just take the pressure off the strain screw until it pops out easily, then insert the replacement.

Trigger return spring is pretty easily done. Lift the tail end of the rebound slide until the spring comes free, then insert the new spring, compress, and return to the completed position.

Tried the 14# spring first and found that it functioned very positively. Then the 13# spring was installed, and the result was equally satisfying for positive function. Felt no need to try the 12# spring, but will keep it on hand.

Reassembled, fully cleaned and lubed, and the old Model 64 feels great! Once again, very positive action on the return spring. Appears to be plenty of "slap" on the hammer fall. DA function is very smooth and noticeably lighter than the factory springs (even after 40-plus years and thousands of rounds downrange).

Next stop will be the indoor range for live fire testing.

For now, these $16 spring kits are looking like a decent "action job" without involving a gunsmith. The second set is waiting for an equally old, but very reliable, Model 66 .357 4".

I am not one to tinker endlessly, and parts replacement is not something I do without a lot of thought. I tend to trust the factory engineers more than anyone selling parts to "improve" my handguns. I admit coming late to this party, but I think Wilson Combat may just have something worth considering. Springs do tend to wear over time, and factory settings may be more attuned to liability lawyers than performance. Maybe, just maybe, this will be a worthwhile exercise.
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Old 09-07-2021, 09:36 PM
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Wolff Gunsprings also offer replacement springs got S&W Revolvers. They sell Powerib Mainsprings, Cylinder Stop Springs and Rebound Springs but the prices are higher than the Wilson Combat springs. The Wilson springs sound like a great deal and Wilson has a great reputation too.

Thanks for the info...
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Old 09-07-2021, 10:17 PM
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I have used the Wolff kits only.

Dinking with underpowered springs can have negative side effects. A light weight mainspring can make for light primer strikes.

The lower you go on the rebound spring, the slower the action is. I have found the full power mainspring and a 13 pound rebound spring to be the sweet spot for most target type Smiths. Anything lower than 13 pounds and it's noticeable.
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Old 09-07-2021, 10:23 PM
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I used the Wilson springs to improve a recent production 629 considerably. Agreed. Easy install. Useful product.
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Old 09-08-2021, 01:47 AM
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I have never tried the Wilson product. I have used the Wolff units on several weapons. You sometimes have to put springs in and out until you get the right combination but it usually works. If not, you can always put the stock stuff back.
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Old 09-08-2021, 10:12 PM
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Stopped by the indoor range this morning to try the Model 64 with the replacement springs. 50 rounds of my usual range loads (158-SWC, 4.5 Unique) and 50 rounds of 150-SWC-HP 5.4 Unique (+P load).

All functions are very good. Snappy trigger return, no hesitation at all. Crisp and clean double-action function. DA trigger pull is noticeably lighter than the original factory mainspring and trigger return spring.

40-plus year old revolver that spent most of its working life with the Pueblo Police Department, now functioning at a level I would say is better than when it was new.

I am pleased. Will be installing the second set in an older Model 66 4" .357 in the coming few days.

Wilson Combat has provided a good product at a very reasonable price, in my opinion. New mainspring and a selection of three trigger return springs (14#, 13#, 12#), ready for drop-in installation by anyone sufficiently familiar with the S&W revolvers to remove a sideplate and do the deed. $16 plus shipping to your mailbox, a true bargain.
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Old 09-10-2021, 12:53 PM
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I hope you released the tension on the mainspring / strain screw before removing the sideplate. I'm sure you probably did but I do see alot of people who dont.
Glad you're happy with your efforts. Next time give the Wolff spring kits a try, I've used both and definitely prefer the Wolff springs.
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Old 09-12-2021, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
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I hope you released the tension on the mainspring / strain screw before removing the sideplate. I'm sure you probably did but I do see alot of people who dont.
Glad you're happy with your efforts. Next time give the Wolff spring kits a try, I've used both and definitely prefer the Wolff springs.
I am new to S&W revolvers, having just purchased a 1965 vintage Model 17-2, and have watched several disassembly videos but none of them said to back off the strain screw before removing the side plate. Does it make a difference?
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Old 09-12-2021, 05:07 PM
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It's always a good idea. The reason is that it takes the force off the hammer pivot pin, which is supported on both sides with the sideplate on, but only one side with it off. The hammer pivot pin can break off, and the trigger pivot pin can, as well. The trigger pin doesn't have as much force on it, but either one can break. That doesn't happen very often, but it helps it to keep it from happening to de-stress it while still supported on both sides.
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Old 09-12-2021, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protocall_Design View Post
It's always a good idea. The reason is that it takes the force off the hammer pivot pin, which is supported on both sides with the sideplate on, but only one side with it off. The hammer pivot pin can break off, and the trigger pivot pin can, as well. The trigger pin doesn't have as much force on it, but either one can break. That doesn't happen very often, but it helps it to keep it from happening to de-stress it while still supported on both sides.
That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the informative response.
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Old 09-12-2021, 06:46 PM
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You're welcome.
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Old 09-12-2021, 11:47 PM
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I had been inside a few S&W revolvers years back and I came across the same suggestion/rationale on this forum and agree — it makes very good sense and I’ve lived by it ever since.

The strain screw is absolutely the first step before going inside, always, no shortcut for me.
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Old 09-13-2021, 12:42 PM
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That's why you always come here for advice first, these guys live and breath S&W revolvers.

Sorry I missed your response to my suggestion, I would have explained the rational behind it but as is to be expected another member explained the why of it. You just dont want to take the chance of getting any of the pins in there misaligned and they're supported fully, on both ends when the sideplate is on.

I believe if one of the pins is broken or otherwise damaged it is (?) repairable but would almost certainly require a trip back home.
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Old 09-13-2021, 12:54 PM
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I can fix mine, but don't work on any guns I don't own.
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Old 09-13-2021, 01:16 PM
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Maybe the OP can as well, maybe not. Anywho, I was more or less directing that to him. I certainly dont have the skill to do it to mine or anyone else's so I always undo the strain screw.
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Old 09-13-2021, 01:30 PM
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I've always found this forum to be one of the best places to go whenever I have a question or need advice. As BillBro said these guys live and breathe S&W and are always willing to pass that knowledge along to guys like me just jumping into the revolver pool. It is greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-14-2021, 12:26 PM
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Thanks for this reminder.......this critical step is often forgotten, particularly on the J-frames, and is especially important in the ones with alloy frames. A lot of spring pressure on those internals.

Always try to remember to rotate the hammer back and pin the compressed spring on hammer strut before loosening and removing the sideplate.

As others have said, don't ever assume that the spring swap has not compromised reliability or functionality. Be sure to regularly verify proper function with live ammunition.


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It's always a good idea. The reason is that it takes the force off the hammer pivot pin, which is supported on both sides with the sideplate on, but only one side with it off. The hammer pivot pin can break off, and the trigger pivot pin can, as well. The trigger pin doesn't have as much force on it, but either one can break. That doesn't happen very often, but it helps it to keep it from happening to de-stress it while still supported on both sides.
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Old 09-14-2021, 02:13 PM
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I've found that most revolvers tolerate the 13# spring very well. To go to the 12# (or lower), internal polishing is often required. As for main springs, I leave them factory as they are the main force behind primer ignition. ( Rimfires in particular are sensitive to lighter main springs.) That said, on my range guns, I often do back out the main Spring tension screw a 1/2 turn. I've done dozens of revolvers with the 13# rebound spring (only) and am rarely disappointed.
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Old 09-29-2021, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
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I've found that most revolvers tolerate the 13# spring very well. To go to the 12# (or lower), internal polishing is often required. As for main springs, I leave them factory as they are the main force behind primer ignition. ( Rimfires in particular are sensitive to lighter main springs.) That said, on my range guns, I often do back out the main Spring tension screw a 1/2 turn. I've done dozens of revolvers with the 13# rebound spring (only) and am rarely disappointed.
I've always heard, and always done the same thing as I was taught that that's the proper procedure, tighten strain screw all the way and then back it off 1/2-3/4 of a turn and that's that. I dont believe that the strain screw is meant to be any type of "action job" in that one uses it to lighten their trigger in any way. It's meant to be installed and set appropriately and left alone. If you want a lighter trigger then you're supposed to swap springs ornstart polishing or send it to someone who knows how to do these things for you.
Now I may be completely wrong but that's what I was taught.
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Old 09-29-2021, 03:58 PM
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Swiss Black Powder - Schuetzen Black Powder | Schuetzen Powder

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Old 09-29-2021, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBro View Post
I've always heard, and always done the same thing as I was taught that that's the proper procedure, tighten strain screw all the way and then back it off 1/2-3/4 of a turn and that's that. I dont believe that the strain screw is meant to be any type of "action job" in that one uses it to lighten their trigger in any way. It's meant to be installed and set appropriately and left alone. If you want a lighter trigger then you're supposed to swap springs ornstart polishing or send it to someone who knows how to do these things for you.
Now I may be completely wrong but that's what I was taught.
The strain screw is suppose to be tight - period. If the factory thought a lighter spring was needed, it would come that way. But liability wise, they want the gun to go off every time you pull the trigger.
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Old 09-29-2021, 06:16 PM
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If the strain screw is "backed off" and left that way, harmonics from the action cycling and firing (or dry firing) will eventually result in the screw becoming looser and looser until the threshold of unreliability is surpassed and the gun stops working.

Mainspring tension can always be carefully tweaked by using a shorter or longer screw if needed or desired.....but the screw should be tightened fully when the gun is reassembled.

As always, when you make a change, be sure to test and verify under carry conditions (aka: the elements) with your reloads or carry ammunition. Each revolver is different, and spring ratings do not always give the desired effect "across the board". Test and verify.

Remember also that if you do make changes in terms of spring ratings, this lighter spring rate dictates a more aggressive approach in terms of cleaning and maintenance, especially when dealing with carry firearms.
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Old 09-29-2021, 07:37 PM
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One point about spring changes. The reduced power hammer/mainsprings are intended to be used with unaltered strain screws.

With a different brand of reduced power springs, I also discovered that in long strings-100 or so rounds-toward the end, the tension of the spring was decreasing noticeably. I initially thought it was operator error caused by fatigue, but the trigger scale confirmed the change in tension. It'd recover, but the let down wasn't a good thing.

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Old 09-29-2021, 08:51 PM
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I've tinkered with revolver springs in the past. I've found that lighter rebound springs can make trigger pull considerably better. However, you need to experiment with spring weights to get the right balance between trigger pull and reliable reset. It can be a fine line.
I've never found an aftermarket main spring that was worth a damn. Every one I ever tried resulted in light strikes. Often its completely unpredictable. Sometimes it works and sometimes it don't.
Stick to factory main springs only.
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Old 09-30-2021, 07:48 AM
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Go to the top of the forum under notable thread index see Revolver Trigger job questions and read Revolver trigger job questions

It will answer all of your questions with the actual pages from the S&W Armorers manual.

Stu

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Old 10-09-2021, 06:56 PM
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I used the Wilson springs to improve a recent production 629 considerably. Agreed. Easy install. Useful product.
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