I tried looking at the FAQ here, but the pics that must've once accompanied it are gone. I think this issue is related to the hammer block getting displaced when trying to coordinate installing the sideplate.

From the top, I took the sideplate off to polish the exterior and install a 15# rebound spring. When I took the guts out, the trigger stop rod skedaddled across the floor and I still haven't found it, but I read that these are mostly useless unless precision fit and more worthwhile for a target gun. I reassembled everything and I can, with sideplate removed, get the cylinder to index if I keep the hand from slipping out of its slot with a finger. Never took the cylinder stop or bolt parts out.

Any ideas? I am sure this isn't that hard, but it seems a pain to fit the sideplate with its top "finger" extension and not knock the hammer block out of place. Anyone have a good pictorial DIY guide?

Doing a little reading, I think the I may not be getting the hand on right to catch the torsion spring. Once the trigger, rebound slide and hammer are in, would this require complete removal and starting from scratch? I can't see its location at this point.

By "indexing", I'm assuming you mean the cylinder is not rotating as it should. Sounds like the hand tensioning spring is not properly installed on the hand.

Re-installation if the sideplate just takes a little practice. (and patience) For me, it's best to install the hammer block over the pin in the rebound, then make sure the block is pushed fully up to the top before carefully re-installing the plate.

Be sure not to cycle the action under full mainspring tension with the sideplate removed. Doing so can cause damage.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

^^^^^^Pretty much the same thing I was going to post.^^^^^^

So no need to do so again.

At times I find it helpful to replace the side plate with the revolver upside-down.

It sounds like the torsion spring for the hand is not activating the hand. To fix that, you need to remove the sideplate and rebound slide/spring, and trigger. You may need to get the DA sear on the hammer off the top of the trigger to free up the trigger for removal. Then pull the hand backwards out of the hand window and work the trigger up off the pivot pin.

To see if the hand spring is working the hand, pull back on the hand a bit and see if it snaps forward. If so, you're good. If not, remove the hand from the trigger. Make sure the spring is properly in place with the coils facing up and the short end of the spring in the trigger pocket. You can see the end of the spring if you look in the hole in the right side of the trigger. Once that is in place, put the large pin on the hand in the hole on the right side of the trigger. Using an allen wrench, pin punch, or similar flat ended tool, compress the long end of the spring upward past the holes for the hand pins. Slide the hand pins all the way into the trigger and lower the spring onto the small hand pin.

Reinstall the trigger and rebound slide/spring. Don't worry about the trigger stop rod.

To install the sideplate, put the hammer block on the rebound slide pin and push it all the way up. It has to stay in that position to get the sideplate on. The best way to keep it there is to roll the gun up on the barrel and top strap with the grip up off the bench about 30 degrees. Gravity will hold the hammer block in place until you get the sideplate started good. Then lay the gun back flat and tap the sideplate in place with a soft mallet. Put in the screws and you're done.

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protocalldesign.com

99.99% sure it is the spring not tensioning the hand. Going to look at it in the next few days and try again.

The hand tension spring took flight one time for me. I heard the direction it hit but it still took for ever to find it.

Hopefully re-installing the hand spring will fix your problem. I hate that job.

.

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Waiting for the break of day

I use the technique that Protocol Design explained, it's an easy way to reset the hand torsion spring in the trigger.

I notice that the hand torsion spring listed at Numrich shows for an MIM trigger, be it 696 or 686, any dash, including those with forged. Are they interchangeable?

Well, Jack First has them, so I bought a few old style.

FWIW, this made re-installing the hand a breeze and easily re-positioned the spring on the hand's pin (didn't cuss once):

https://www.10-8performance.com/armorer-tool/

Whether it's maintenance or repair, a good quality small, padded bench vise and the correct quality tools can make a huge difference.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Not that enamored of the Brownell's rebound slide tool - needs a bit of taper to center the spring and still push in past the frame pin without the spring getting out of alignment and the tool hanging up. It only worked like it should this last time I used it, else a screwdriver bit ended up being more helpful.

Can you recommend a good vice like you describe? The chicom one I got off Amazon is so-so.

Any small vise will do really........I just have a very inexpensive, very OLD portable vise with leather pcs glued to the jaws. Great for using as a "third hand" to hold on to parts and assemblies and help with other small jobs. It's all I could afford in the mid-70's (1970's)
It's the one I keep in the top storage section of my tool box....called a Stanley "Handyman" model, I believe. It only opens to around 2.5", and is cast iron, but not too heavy. I don't think they even make them any more.

This one is imported, but gets high ratings.......

2-1/2 in. Table Swivel Vise

It seems that all my tools are described as "vintage" when I look them up in a Google search. That speaks volumes.

Everyone has his/her favorite rebound slide removal tool. I use the same small screwdriver I use when removing the sideplate screws to remove and re-install the rebound spring and slide. The end of the screwdriver can be used to carefully pry up the rebound for removal. (remember to wear safety glasses, and always cover the assy with a rag prior to the spring coming out.) The end of the screwdriver can be also be used during re-assembly by pre-positioning the rebound slide and spring, then placing the tip of the blade inside the spring end and press it forward until it passes over the rebound stud. The screwdriver can then be withdrawn from the spring while placing downward pressure on the rebound slide with the thumb. (or finger)

Photo below......exhibit "A", a 1/8" small Craftsman screwdriver. cost: $4.99. A little heat shrink tape on the shank/blade slightly tapered. (width)

If you are going to be working on firearms, may I suggest a Plano tackle box to house all (or most) of your small hand tools and repair/spare parts? A quality box that is still made in the USA. Just a very handy thing to have around. Merry Christmas.

Plano Four-Drawer Tackle Box

Carter

Attached Images

IMG_0286.jpg (90.9 KB, 11 views)

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

"Everyone has his/her favorite rebound slide removal tool. I use the same small screwdriver I use when removing the sideplate screws to remove and re-install the rebound spring and slide. The end of the screwdriver can be used to carefully pry up the rebound for removal. (remember to wear safety glasses, and always cover the assy with a rag prior to the spring coming out.) The end of the screwdriver can be also be used during re-assembly by pre-positioning the rebound slide and spring, then placing the tip of the blade inside the spring end and press it forward until it passes over the rebound stud. The screwdriver can then be withdrawn from the spring while placing downward pressure on the rebound slide with the thumb. (or finger)"

This method of re-assembly of the rebound slide spring as described by my friend in Evansville, is the same method I've used for many many years, which is the way we were taught at the factory. No special tool involved.

However, I fold a shop rag into quarters and put the rag over the spring while installing, just in case the screwdriver would slip off the spring. Because if the tip of the screwdriver does slip off, and without using the rag as described, you will put the screwdriver tip right through the tip of your finger. This will be painful and the healing process will be several days, not including any cursing that may occur.

Chris

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Retired LEO, FI, S&W Armorer