Is the hammer in 29-10 the same as 29-2, for replacement purposes? In other words can you put pre lock N hammer in gun with lock and MIM parts. I’ve never had a Hillary Lock gun apart.

No, you can't. Multiple reasons. One of them is the hammer of a 29-2 has the firing pin on the hammer. The 29-10 hammer is frame mounted.

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S&WCA 1729

The hammers and frames are also different configurations. It's not just a matter of having a hammer nose or not.

Also, even though the triggers are all theoretically the same, sometimes a forged or MIM trigger won't play well in a gun not originally designed for them.

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protocalldesign.com

Was going to grind off a hammer. Just bought a hammer and it’s the older type from N with firing pin. Looks like I will have to order from S&W. I just bought a 29-10 with bobbed hammer, nice job but worthless to me. I needed a spare N hammer anyway, all I got are Ks. Have never fooled with these newer models as far as taking them apart.
Thx for replies.

A new MIM hammer should be a simple drop in part. With a few minor exceptions, working on the new ones is pretty much like working on the old ones. If you take the trigger out, the trigger lever will fall out. If you take the hand off the trigger, the hand torsion spring will fall out.

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protocalldesign.com

Just a side note: one of the main objectives of MIM parts was drop-in capability when the guns are produced, and for parts replacement as well. Although not always appreciated by traditionalists, MIM parts achieved that as well as economy of revolver production to keep prices competitive.

In your case the advantages of MIM PARTS will be to your benefit when replacing your hammer.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

If two parts are the same dimensions shouldn’t they be equally easy to replace, regardless off method, milled or MIM? Am I missing something here? I though MIM just cheaper technology than milling.
The only MIM I’ve ran into is the hammers in newer 10/22 Rugers.
I’ve done many 10/22 with aftermarket kits in trigger/ hammer group. Cant give a good opinion on them because they were in models with plastic housing. I can’t point out a failure in MIM parts, but I’m not crazy about them. I’m not convinced they will take the wear of milled on a part like a hammer.
The MIM wins hands down in cost, no doubt.

Milled parts are close but only within a machining tolerance, therefore NOT exactly the same size, that's why they need a bit of hand fitting.

MIM parts are the same size, that's why they can be replaced with other MIM parts and not need fitting. And they wear as good and better than milled forged parts, as well as being cheaper to make and install.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Ok, knowing nothing about running gears in the new models with frame mounted firing pins I have a few questions. As far as N frame is there only one MIM hammer? A member was helping me out with a new hammer sold to me at $60. I had just been looking at hammer for $30. Finally figured out one was assembly and other was just hammer. I need hammer for
29-10 that has been bobbed. Are these MIM hammers the same as old type for changing out component parts? Or do I need to buy hammer assembly.

There's only one MIM N frame hammer.

Yes MIM are the same with regard to "changing out componenet parts". I always use the original parts to the original hammer, they've 'worn in' to the other existing parts they contact in the gun. Buy just the bare hammer, you don't need to pay extra for a hammer assembly.

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Jim
S&WCA #819