I recently impulse bought a 38 S&W Victory model that upon picking up I noticed someone painted a portion of the muzzle in black paint. Is there any way to remove this without damaging any bluing underneath? I imagine any mechanical means would do the most damage but I’m also hesitant to put acetone near an unfamiliar finish.

Also this is my first post though I have lurked on the forum for a while. Thank you guys for all you’ve shared, I’ve become very fond of these firearms as of recent and my wallet will never forgive you.

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Welcome to the forum.

For the least risky first try, consider Breakfree CLP and a nylon brush and see if the paint (if paint it is) comes off.

If not, acetone or fingernail polish *remover* have been used successfully to remove paint without damaging bluing.

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Pickpocket

That should be "fingernail polish remover" not just repainting with fingernail polish, right?

Froggie

Right on and thank you. I'll fix that little oversight.

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Pickpocket

Many times, "Goof Off" removes paint and marker without damaging the blue. Use a nylon brush or terrycloth rag.

Ivan

Thank you guys for the reply’s. I tried CLP and naphtha (basically goo off) and no dice. I’ll pick up some nail polish remover this weekend and report back. Bronze wool and aircraft remover will be my nuclear option haha.

Does carburetor spray or lacquer thinner damage blueing? I think I have used it before and not seen any damage.

The acetone is a safe bet, but I’ve removed some paint with good old Hoppes 9 bore cleaner. Several years ago I bought a S&W 36 with all the engraving filled with gold paint. My wife’s toothbrush and Hoppes removed it easily.

Acetone is available at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, just about any place that sells paint. A quart is only a few bucks. It will take off just about any paint that isn't 2-part epoxy. Though you may have to soak it overnight or even a little longer. Just don't soak the grips unless you want to refinish them.
FWIW, a good soak will also remove any old dried grease & oil gunk from the action and afterwards you can mix it 50/50 with automatic tranny fluid to make the best rust remover, penetrating oil solution known to man. Just make sure you always keep it in a tightly closed container - it will evaporate almost overnight - and the fumes are flammable, not to mention being bad for you if you breathe them.

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Send lawyers, guns & money...

brake fluid will work

On this topic, will any of these paint-remover suggestions remove Cerakote, or is that a different beast altogether?

Yes it sure will ... just get some on the fender of your car !
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

That is a different beast altogether. Methyl Ethyl Ketone may work on that, I do not know for sure.

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Kind regards, Heinz

break or carb cleaner, careful, dont breathe the fumes of hexane. Does not affect the blueing. Or paint stripper gel based on dichlormethane. Shall not effect the blueing either. Then careful trying with a bronze brush and see what gives.

Acetone, which is the same as fingernail polish remover, should remove the paint and it will not harm the blued finish.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

You have to watch just grabbing fingernail poish though. Some of it doesn't contain acetone so won't be as effective.

Most of the acetone-free labeled nail polish remover uses MEK as the removal ingredient instead.

Both do about the same thing, MEK evaporates slower than acetone.

They are both chemicals that are not supposed to be used in circumstances where they come in contact with your skin .....so that's why they allow their use in nail polish remover I guess.

You can buy a qt can of either stuff at Lowes for cheap.
It's usefull if you are into repairing stuff. I like it for cleaning surfaces prior to soldering.
Try not to breath the fumes, ect.

Won't harm bluing. Some use it as a final de=greaser wipe down on parts before bluing or even during bluing if the part(s) won't take color.

Lacquer Thinner is also handy for the same things.

The general consensus is that the only sure way to remove Cerakote is to bead blast it off.
It appears to be highly resistant to almost any chemical you might find that's even remotely safe to be around.

For many years I kept a small lidded container of Lacquer thinner on my bench to clean and degrease small parts.
It evaporates slower then Acetone, but seems to have additives that might leave a little residue.
Neither will harm gun bluing, parkerizing, or any plated finish, but may attack some other modern coating type gun finishes.

Welcome to the Forum. Why not "paint" remover since that is what is on the label and is not that expensive. Go down to the hardware store and buy it. Apply thick coat and cover with plastic wrap. Let sit as long as needed to remove, or apply second or third time if needed. Will not damage the finish. If that process does not work, it is not paint!

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Gary
SWCA 2515

New paint remover has been reformulated. Now it doesn't work very well any more.

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protocalldesign.com

That is why you need the plastic wrap and a longer soak time, but still works for me. The only coating I have stripped that needed multiple coats of paint remover is polyurethane, repeating the process will give you results. All the people splashing around in Acetone worries me.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Paint stripper is the fastest; will not remove bluing.

But if you don't have much use for the rest of the can, soak in acetone (won't remove bluing either) for 1 minute to an hour depending the type pf paint. Plus it has a lot of other gun uses. And a 1/2 gallon of acetone will cost the same or less than a tiny bottle of finger nail polish remover.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

I’m firm believer in acetone and a acid brush. Takes paint of all kinds off with no problem. Just make sure to keep it away from finished wood, it will work like stripper on them. It will turn most plastic to sheep snot. Acetone is main ingredient in model glues. It actually chemically welds plastic.

Acetone worked great. I just let it sit and scrubbed with fine bronze wool.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachm...1&d=1641869893

http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachm...1&d=1641870013

Is it worth throwing some cold blue on the bits of exposed metal? Or will it stick out because it’s such a large area?

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I think cold blue will stick out like a sore thumb.

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