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05-05-2009, 04:21 PM
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What is the process of removing the side plate on a K frame (or any revolver). I understand that prying it off is not the proper way as it may damage, warp or deform the side plate.
I have heard a process using a soft faced mallet and tapping on the frame somewhere?
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05-05-2009, 04:50 PM
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Take off the grips.
Take out the side plate screws (you need the right screwdriver, the blade has to fit the slot width)
hold the gun level with the side plate up. Use the handle of the screwdriver to rap downward on the frame where the grips reside until the plate pops upward.
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05-05-2009, 11:27 PM
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I usually just take off the grips, and the side plate screws and use a small nylon hammer to lightly tap on the handle (so if it does scrath its under the grips) with the side plate in my palm...this seems to work well for me!
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05-06-2009, 06:29 PM
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Thanks for the info, it worked like a champ. I got the side plate off with very litle effort by tapping it with a screwdriver handle. I cleaned out the grit and grime and lighthly lube'd it, and got it all back together in a matter of minutes. Now it's smoother than a baby's bottom.
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03-17-2019, 04:49 PM
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These old posts still hold great information. Sure glad they are easy to find.
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03-17-2019, 05:28 PM
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Please keep in mind that when the side plate is off, the most important pins that hold all of the key components are now suspended on only one side. Many won't remove a side plate until they have backed out the strain screw to take all that spring pressure off the parts.
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03-17-2019, 05:39 PM
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I take the strain screw loose first. I also don't dry fire anything until the plate is back on.
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03-17-2019, 11:57 PM
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Are there any horror stories regarding cycling the action of a S&W with the side plate off?
(I’ve gotten away with it in the past when I didn’t know any better...)
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03-18-2019, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waveski
Are there any horror stories regarding cycling the action of a S&W with the side plate off?
(I’ve gotten away with it in the past when I didn’t know any better...)
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You can ding your frame.
Don't ask me how I know.
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03-18-2019, 08:38 AM
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Yes. Over the years, I've heard several stories, some from guys whose "stories" I gave validity. I've also read that doing this is NOT a good thing to do. It makes a great deal of sense to me. I've had a couple of used revolvers with the hammer stud broken. Reparing them can cost near the value of the revolver, especially if it's a blued frame and you wish the repairs not to be obvious. It requires polishing of the replacement stud on the outside of the frame, and that requires a refinish to hide the work. There is a lot of force at play when that action completes its cycle under full spring tension. Having one end of that stud (or the stud that the trigger operates on) unsupported can add to the force applied against the stud. It's also possible if you do this a few times the hammer and/or trigger can work away from the frame a bit which increases the leverage, at least in my opinion.
I have done it by catching the hammer as it falls and not allowing it to slam down, but I found I can find out what I need by cycling the action without the hammer spring in place using finger pressure to allow the release of the hammer. I seldom do that, but it's a much safer alternative to doing so under full spring tension. These revolvers were not designed to operate without both ends of those studs supported by the side plate in full place.
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03-18-2019, 12:38 PM
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The Kunhausen shop manual I bought back in the 80's said to use the wood handle of a small hammer. I had bought a 2 oz ball peen hammer specifically for gunsmithing, and the handle now looks like it has been chewed on by a beaver. No reason plastic or other non-marring hammer heads can't work but I'll just keep doing what the book told me.
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