Howdy from Texas ....

I picked up a 24-5 today. One of the Lew Horton 6.5" models. Love the gun. This is my 2nd and I have a few questions ....

(1) The transfer bar was removed. Is this a problem if I want to carry the gun in the field in a holster?

(2) The DA trigger is about 3lb 5oz. Smooth, but a little light. The SA trigger is only 1lb 5oz (average after a few pulls) .... Is that too light to carry in the field?

Thanks

__________________
J. Hargrave
Humble, Texas

Howdy
Many threads on the subject; you’ll get plenty of opinions for and against. That said, many folks/gunsmiths remove them claiming it’s superfluous and lightens the trigger pull. I leave mine in, but wouldn’t be afraid to carry without one. Not sure how you get a 3.5# DA trigger and still have it fire. Grab your popcorn and enjoy the ride.

__________________
213th FBINA

That’s pretty light. I have a custom built 45acp 1911 I used in USPSA competition that’s about that weight (1.5 lb) and it’s not what I’d recommend for an average shooter.

If you don’t have a transfer bar, I’d leave an empty chamber under the hammer as is done with single action Colts and similar.

Do you mean the hammer block was removed? Smiths don't have transfer bars. I would not use it without the hammer block. It is an integral safety. That sounds awfully light for your trigger. I would be concerned about light primer strikes. I recommend that you have it checked by a competent gun smith.

"I would not use it without the hammer block."
So does that mean my 1933 HD 38 is unsafe.
It never had a hammer block.........

__________________
Only difference Fool/Mule-ears

All I am saying is that the hammer block keeps the hammer from striking the firing pin if the gun is dropped. It is meant to be an additional safety. The 1933 HD has the firing pin on the hammer. A hammer block could be useful there too, but that was not a consideration when it was made. If you have a hammer block you can carry the gun with a loaded chamber under the hammer, without one you should not.

Actually, it did, or does.
It pivots instead of sliding.

__________________
Regards,
Lee Jarrett

Sounds like I was using the wrong terminology ... yes. It is the hammer block.

Another Question ... If I send this back to Smith and Wesson, they would not do anything silly like convert this to have that "lock" would they?

I would love to send to a good revolver gunsmith ... but have never found a good one in Houston. A few that "work on revolvers" .. but the last one I gave them, came back with a 10lb single-action trigger and is horrible to shoot. Not sure how they could have done that, but they did.

__________________
J. Hargrave
Humble, Texas

Swapping out the mainspring would help increase the trigger weight? Correct?

__________________
J. Hargrave
Humble, Texas

With a SA pull that light, I'd be worried about push-off. Check it out.

I'd also vote for replacing that mussing hammer block.

Installing a hammer block is easy, There is probably a u-tube on it. Buy a hammer block from Gun Parts and remove the side plate, lay the hammer block in (there is no adjustment or fitting) and replace the side plate. It's not rocket science. I have a 14-3 single action that has a super light trigger. I know it and I'm very conscious of it on the range and very careful.
SWCA 892

Silly question regarding the light trigger pull . . . Have you checked to be sure that the strain screw i fully seated?

This light trigger is probably the result of a loose strain screw (or a shortened one) in conjunction with a shortened trigger return spring.

As to the missing hammer block, if the revolver is NEVER gong to be carried the point is moot. If you plan on carrying it, I would replace the missing part

I would not send the revolver to the factory. They will install a spring set that is MUCH heavier than what is in there.

There are hundreds, perhaps thousands of good revolver gunsmiths around this great Nation of ours. To go with some of the best known shops there is Cylinder and Slide, Power Custom, Ten Ring Precision, Clark Custom Guns, Andy Horvath, and others that are not coming to mind at the moment.

It is not possible to convert your revolver to include that "lock". . . . It requires a different frame

__________________
"Acta non verba"

Yes. However if the trigger rebound spring has been clipped or an extremely light replacement used it may have insufficient strength to reset the trigger. Finessing the trigger pull on a Smith is a question of balance.

My range revolvers have that part removed. My hunting and defence revolvers have it in them. A N Frame that size would be quite a large gun to carry every day but if you want to carry it replacing the part is quite easy and the part is readily available, I have at least a dozen of them.

This is what you need.

Attached Images

20220514_015812.jpg (98.4 KB, 51 views)

It is "fine" without the block as long as you do not drop it on its hammer on a hard surface. That could break the hammer stud and cause it to fire. Of course if dropped in this manner the muzzle will be pointed back up at YOU. NOT worth the risk for maybe .000001 gain. The block is almost weightless and takes no effort to move down ward in the side plate channel it rides in as you pull the trigger. The pin on the rebound slide moves it, but it doesn't even lift it. Unless you are holding the gun upside down the tiny bit of weigh has gravity working with it, not against it.

Your gun has been "tuned" by an idiot. It needs the following repairs to be safe and reliable:

-Replace the hammer block.
-Replace the mainspring and the trigger return spring
-Check to be sure the mainspring tension spring is A) screwed in tight, and B) has not been shortened; if it has been shortened, replace.

Once all that is done, check the hammer for "push-off" -- cock it, push forward on the hammer with your thumb. If the hammer falls the idiot also filed on your trigger and sear, and they will need to be either corrected or replaced by a gunsmith.

For potential buyers of S&W revolvers -- if DA and SA trigger pulls seem too feathery light to believe -- don't believe it; someone has screwed up that gun. It might be easy to fix, it might be hard/expensive/impossible to fix, but if you go into it eyes-closed, you lose.

__________________
Pisgah

Hello ... I did tigten the strain screw and then the trigger would not properly rebound. It would "stick" and so I had to ligten that screw.

I think I just need a complete spring replacement + that hammer block. I will contact S&W and see how long they take to do the work or see if I can just buy the parts and drive a bit to find a good gunsmith to do the installation. Should be easy, but let a professional do this one.

Thank you.

__________________
J. Hargrave
Humble, Texas

Thank you for this information ...

(1) Mainspring Tension screw is normal and not shortened
(2) You cock the revolver and push forward on the hammer and it is tight as can be and does not wiggle or want to move forward. I put about 15 lbs of pressure to move forward and tight as can be.

__________________
J. Hargrave
Humble, Texas

Ya, just put in a heavier rebound spring and the trigger will reset with the screw tight. Add a hammer block and you should be good to go. Get a proper screw driver that fits the side plate screws. Watch a couple videos to see how. Midway's smiling Larry has a decent one
Disassembly and Lubrication of S&W Revolvers

"Range guns" don't need a hammer block?
I learned something today- it is impossible to drop a "range gun".
I did not know that.

__________________
Regards,
Lee Jarrett

If your pull weight estimates are correct, the gun will not be reliable. Actually, it may not fire at all.

The altered springs, and the removal of the hammer block indicate that whoever worked on the internals was unfamiliar, untrained, and unqualified. A potentially dangerous situation for sure.

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

You know, Smith & Wesson doesn't add these parts for nothing! Same with the proper rebound spring and mainspring tension. This fetish of having super light trigger pulls is astounding to me and really doesn't add to better accuracy or performance. If anything it makes the gun unsafe and increases the chance of a misfires.

I used to chase the perfect trigger pull and although I believe you can get some improvement without effecting reliability. I figured out a better trigger puller with a stock trigger beats a mediocre trigger puller with a light trigger.

I was at the gunsmith today shooting the bull ... think I will call Wolf on Monday and just replace all the springs ... have the local gunsmith put all together.

__________________
J. Hargrave
Humble, Texas

I would drive to San Antonio and drop it off with Alex at Ten Ring Precision.

Update ... I ordered a rebound spring, main spring and a hammer block. I also orderd the Gunsmither S&W Spring tool (VERY NICE) ... was able to swap out the main spring and the trigger rebound spring and add the hammer block no problem.

The double-action is where it should be at about 12 lbs. The Single Action is a bit "sticky" and weighs in at 5 Pounds 9 Oz. I notice to get it into single-action, I pull back and have to "push" it into full cock. Hoping that works itself out with repeated cycling and shooting.

__________________
J. Hargrave
Humble, Texas

Your "sticky" single action and the fact that you have to 'push' the hammer into SA may indicate long ratchets.
If you pull back hard on the trigger in SA when dry firing, does the trigger ever feel sluggish when it returns, or hang up rearward?

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer