Ok guys I have a little problem here, today when I was cleaning my 586 I bought last month I got everything cleaned up except for the inside of the cylinder right where the end of the case for .38 specials is. I have scrubbed the heck out of it with a brass brush and Birchwood Casey's Bore scrubber but it doesn't seem to budge. Any idea what I can use to get this cleaned up? It looks almost like it could be rust up in there, I tried scratching it out with a pick and got a little to budge but that seems like it is going to take forever to clean out that way.

Not sure what was shot in the gun before I got it but it was there before I shot the gun, only thing I have shot is a couple of boxes of Remington UMC lead round nose bullets. I did get some of it off but now it seems no matter how many times I run the brush through it I can't knock anymore loose.

This is my first handgun so sorry if I didn't give you all enough information, I am use to cleaning shotguns.

38 specials chamber fine but .357 mags won't go in without a good push.

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Drew

The dreaded buildup from shooting 38 specials. You need a .375 bore brush, a piece of cleaning rod to screw the bore brush into, and a drill motor to chuck the rod in. Squirt some solvent in the chambers and on the brush and have at it. Clean ONLY the chambers this way.

I've never used Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber but, I'd try running a soaked patch through each charge hole a couple of times and allow your solvent to soak for, maybe an hour, then try your brushing again.

Hope this helps
chris

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Retired LEO, FI, S&W Armorer

if solvent doesn't do it try jb bore paste.

In my experience JB wont do it either. It'll produce black patches without opening the chamber much. Remarkably, putting a bronze brush in a drill motor and using that will scar the cylinder throats. The only solution I know is to get a stainless chamber brush on a rod and work that in and out. Never use that on the bore, of course.

I've got several revolvers that get their chambers cleaned with a brush in a drill motor regularly (my 625's and 627's before every match, my 617's when rounds won't chamber or before every match) none have any "scars" in the throats or chambers. Same for my Ti cylinders.

If your idea of a big shooting session is 25 rds you may get the chambers clean with just a rod and brush, but I've taken peoples "clean" guns and run a drill powered brush thru the chambers and showed how much crud they're leaving.

Last November I bought a 686 and have shot plenty of 38's and 357's through it. I do notice the rings the 38's leave, but have little trouble getting them out. I've only used semijacketed or full metal jacket bullets, though. I wonder if the lead bullets you're using could have something to do with it? It doesn't seem like it would, but maybe.

Use a copper/lead solvent like Shooter's Choice.
The run a Brownell's "Tornado" spiral steel chamber brush throught it.

I shoot thousands of .38s in .357 chambers, and the chambers look like new. Most of the stubborn residue is lead, which is loosened by the solvent and swept out by the brush. Quick and easy.

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Science plus Art

The lead ammo may have something to do with it however there was already a noticeable ring there when I got the gun so it may simple be the buildup from a lot of rounds.


I tried letting the Bore Scrubber soak for awhile with no effect on the rings, it says it removes copper and lead fouling and it did a great job on the barrel it just isn't touching the stuff in the chamber. I will try the stainless chamber brush and if that doesn't work do the bronze brush in the drill motor technique.

Thanks for the help guys,

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Drew

Really think you need a better lead solvent if it has built up awhile. Bore Scrubber is more all-purpose.

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Science plus Art

One procedure I use with success is take an old bore brush that is caliber specific to your gun or the next smaller in size. Get one of the Copper Chore Boy scour pads used on pots and pans in the kitchen. Take some scissors and cut it apart so you have a piece the width of the brush and 2"-3" long. Wrap several layers of this around the brush and use this on the cylinder. You want a snug fit so you may need to experiment some. This is more aggressive on deposits than a brass brush but will not harm your gun. Just makes sure the material is copper and not steel. You can use a magnet to check if you’re not sure.
Cary

Went by the local hardware store, only thing they had that seemed like it might do the job was Remington 40X Bore Cleaner. Is this stuff any good? Do you think it will take care of it?

If not I think I can get the shooter's choice at the local dealer but he is about 35-40 minutes away so it will probably be Saturday before I get out there.

I think we have some of the copper chore boys around the house, may try that if nothing else seems to be working.

Thanks for everything guy, keep the great suggestions coming.

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Drew

Drew,
The Chore Boy trick works good on bore leading as well. If you use some cast bullets and happen to develop a nasty leading problem it will cut out the lead very well. With the bulk of the lead removed you can then remove the trace amounts with a good lead removal solvent.
I got the Chore Boy trick from a fellow cast bullet shooter.
Cary

Chore Boy (make sure it's copper) wrapped around a bore brush works great for a leaded bore, but so does shooting some jacketed rounds as bore cleaners. I realize that the drill motor routine sounds harsh but if you've got much buildup in the chambers it cleans out in 5 minutes what you'll otherwise spend days messing with and not fully removing.

Wrap some 0000 steel wool around a old scrub brush and go to town. You will see the lead come right out.

DITTO.....I have also used oversized bore brushes meant for a larger caliber....45 brush in 38 cylinder,etc

OK, I'll give away the secret:

Get a .38 NYLON bore brush and a 6" cleaning rod.

Cut a strip of scotchbrite pad and "work" it into the bristles of the bore brush. It works best if the pad strip is applied "spiral" to the brush.

Force the brush into the cylinder tube.


Attach a hand drill to the rod and start spinning the brush.

In stubborn cases:

chrome polish is your secret weapon. Use a Q tip and apply it to the burn ring and let it sit overnight.

You can also use the polish in the tube as you spin the brush.

This is the only way to get the burn rings out with little abrasion.

I got a couple of different bore solvents and none of them seemed to put a dent in it at all so I broke down and used the drill, it worked ok still a little left in there. I think that I can get the rest of it out with solvent now though. Local hardware store didn't have any of the copper chore boy but next time I make a run to town I will pick some up so that I can give it a shot and see how it does.

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Drew

So run it a little more and get the rest out. Next time will be easier.

LEWIS LEAD REMOVER!!

I have heard both good and bad things about the Lewis Lead Remover, I may purchase one and give it a try, they aren't terribly expensive.

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Drew

The Lewis Lead Remover has been part of my cleaning kit for 35 years now. In my opinion, it is the single best devise for removing lead fouling, bar none. Yes, the new chemicals will work, but the LLR works much faster and does a perfect job without causing any harm to the gun.

Second best thing since sliced bread!

www.hiddenguncabinet.com

chief38

All:

We make a "De-Leading Tool" that was originally designed for use by commercial ranges to clean 357 revolvers that had seen a lot of 38 Special use as rentals. The reamer is ground 0005"
(that's 1/2 thousandth of an inch) smaller than the minimum SAAMI chamber for 357. Further, it has a section .0005" smaller than the minimum throat to remove leading in this area as well.

There is a leade angle that duplicates the SAAMI angle between charge hole and throat that is ground to scrape--not cut--the lead away on this surface.

It's designed for hand use only, to be turned by a T-handle we make, or a T-type tap handle of your own--takes less than five minutes to clean up a cylinder It works well and will not damage your cylinder IF USED CORRECTLY, BY HAND. (I emphasize this last statement because, years ago, a NJ cop put his in a drill press and proceeded to ruin two cylinders before stopping.)

Available @ $50.00, plus shipping in 357 and 44 cal.

Best regards,

Dave Manson
1-810-953-0732

I will post it again. Wrap some 0000 steel wool around a old bore brush dip it in some solvent and go to work on that lead. You will see the lead come out on the steel wool. Same way with the barrel.

The stubborn black rings inside the cylinder tubes are not lead, they are flame broiled carbon heat fused to the surface of the metal. I have never found a solvent which will remove it without serious scrubbing. It's basically like what gets burned onto a BBQ grill.

BTW, if you ever do need to remove lead deposits soak in a 50-50 mix of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and the lead will soften up like modeling clay and can be removed.

i have had the same problem. i think its lead,and carbon. the only thing that worked for me is the "LEWIS LEAD REMOVER". i tried everything written here,and nothing worked but LLR

You will also leave microscopic bits of steel from the steel wool in the charge holes resulting in rust.

I used Hoppes lead cloth. Cut a small patch of the lead cloth and wrapped around a slighly undersized jag. Took some elbow grease but worked well and without the worries of scratches or rust.

What you need is a stainless chamber brush, same spiral design as the bronze ones but stainless. It will remove the carbon buildup by working the brush in and out on a cleaning rod. You wont need the drill motor. I believe I got mine from Brownells

Unless you are having ejection problems I wouldn't worry too much about it. I know we all like to get fanatical when it comes to cleaning our weapons but if it is not affecting function I leave it alone. Remove the lead, leave the scorched rings there, they will just come back again anyway. If you continually clean too aggressively after every shoot you will eventually open the chambers up and you don't want that.

I have found that if I let the solvent soak for about an hour it will come out a lot better. I also use a 45cal. brush on a drill. about three passes and it's clean..

I swab my cylinders in Hoppes #9 and let them sit for about two hours and then brush them out with a .40 cal brush. I've been doing this since new, so I probably have prevented any build up. As I fire nothing but .38 Spl in mine (snubbies) I have encountered no problems.

It depends how many rounds you shoot between cleanings. Shoot few rounds (38's), then clean, and it takes a many sessions (and then trying to chamber .357's) to realize you're not getting your chambers clean. Think what you want but i've run a .375 bore brush spun by a drill motor thru my buddies (.38/.357) guns they thought were clean and surprised them with how much crud came out. My 617's don't get cleaned until rounds are difficult to chamber (several thousand rounds) or pre match. The only way to clean them without devoting ridiculous amounts of time is a brush spun by a drill motor. If you think pushing a brush thru by hand is enough, fine, doesn't seem to be if your round count is high.

David Manson described what I use, and have had it for nearly 30 years. A Clymer "De-Leader" reamer. It is basically a chamber reamer with a stop that just fits the .357 chamber and turned slowly by hand 2 or 3 turns scrapes the build up out of the chamber. When I used to help teach a Sheriff's training program, we used it on every revolver that went through the course, and more than half would never chamber a .357 as they had been shot with hundreds of .38's and never properly cleaned.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

http://smith-wessonforum.com/e...570103904/m/58310237 Read about method about half way down the page.

This thread reminded me of way back when Ruger had first introduced their .357 Blackhawk, I found one in a pawn shop, with the barrel so leaded up from firing lead bullets, it looked like a dirty .30 caliber barrel. The price was right for a pistol that had only been out for less than two years, so I scraped up enough and bought it. Was stationed at the Army post, so went on post, managed to get several pistol cleaning rods, and a number of .45 brushes. By clamping the pistol rod in a bolted down machinist vice, then pushing hard, was able to get lots of large chunks of lead out. Destroyed several brushes, but ended up with a veyr clean, sharp bore. Still have that old Ruger, but do not shoot lead in it. Either jacketed hollow points, or gas checks on hand loads. No more leading problems either. I don't know for sure, but full power .357 seemed to be hotter back then than they seem today, maybe that is just a failure of memory on my part also.

I use a SS .40 brush after a mixture of 1 part Kroil to 2 parts Shooters Choice.

I let it sit for 10-15 minutes and if works great. Matter of fact, I use this one all of my cleaning now and it saves alot of scrubbing.

I had the exact same problem and used a .40 S&W brush on a cordless drill to clean out the cylinder bores of a 686. Worked like a charm and DID NOT damage the gun at all. If you used a different material it might, but a bronze/brass brush inside the SS barrel should not have any effect, but it will get the crud out. Just spin it for about 10-15 seconds and check, then repeat as needed. Put some Shooter's Choice or Hoppes #9 solvent in there while spinning the brush. Good luck, B

Cleaning chambers/cylinder throats, the brush and drill motor is the way to go but I won't use it in the barrel. There you need to push the brush thru so it follows the rifleing.

I brush a liberal coat of Kroil on all outside and inside surfaces of the cylinder. Let it sit at least a couple of hours . The longer the better. Sometimes when I get home from the range I will just take off the cylinder, coat it, and leave it overnight. Then clean with whatever utensil you would ordinarily use. Kroil does a lot of the lifting and it results in much less brush work with much more grime removed, especially on the cylinder face.

This is the easiest, cheapest and most effective method I have found. Then clean up the remainder with any solvent and a "cylinder" brush.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Butches Bore Shine and a bronze brush...Let it soak then brush it or use the drill motor method.

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