Yes, you can clean your rimfire silencer with a paper towel.

Don't laugh, it can be done. Here are pictures of the first two baffles after 200 rounds. The first one takes the most punishment and is one of the hardest to clean.

Here is a picture of the first two after I wiped them off with paper towel. Now there is some trash still present but that cleans off really easy with the big 45 Frontier medal cleaner without scratching the coating they put on baffles.

Everyone is concentrating too much on coming out with a product or cleaning procedure to clean off the carbon.

Why not come out with a product that KEEPS THE CARBON FROM STICKING TO THE PIECES???

This what I do,
When I'm finished cleaning and polishing all 15 of the parts that make up my can I spray all of them with OTIS DRY LUBE or any dry lube. Then I coat all of the parts inside and out with
Sil-Glyde Silicone Lubricant.

Yes, brake lubricant ! It withstands the heat and stays on the part. Each time you shoot a round your just putting another layer of black nasty crinkles on icing that will wipe right off. At least over 90 percent will.

If you notice in the picture 2430 and 2435 you can see the Sil-Glyde Silicone Lubricant still on the outside of the part and it's still on the inside too.

My .22 lr can has 15 pieces to clean, 8 baffles so I wanted to find a different and easier way to clean it.

I limit suppressor rounds to 200 before I clean.

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Anti spatter for welding, in an aerosol can works well, too.

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I have had very good results using CLR to clean my rimfire suppressor baffles. I go more like 1000 rounds before cleaning, though. If I cleaned it at 200 rounds, I'd spend all my spare time cleaning!

That's a lot of rounds between cleaning! The next time you clean post a picture of that first baffle. They say the dirtier the can gets the louder it gets.
Hope you don't have aluminum baffles because that CLR eats alum a little bit every time you use it. It also eats some finishes. It's acid.

It only takes me about 15 to 20 minutes from start to finish, about as much time as it takes to clean the gun and I'm just using paper towels and 45 Frontier to polish.

I find it easier just to boil the whole suppressor in water with a little soap.

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Ruggy

I've always heard the opposite. The manual for my Dead Air Mask even states that it takes some residue buildup to eliminate the 'first shot pop'. They also give an interval of up to 2000rnds between cleaning, depending on ammo used.

Nope. And I don't use it on the tube, just the baffles. Could've sworn I took some before/after pics, but now I can't find them...

What brand can is it. I recently purchased a Silencer Co Warlock and have not cleaned it yet. I have only run about 10 rounds through it. I popped them off out of my walkout basement so the neighbors couldn't see me and I guarantee they didn't hear it. I have the Hybrid and run it on an FNX 45 Tactical. Same deal pop it off out of the basement and sound like you are smacking a couple of 2x4's together. Waiting on ATF approval on an Octane 9. should be getting it soon. Submitted it in June.

My AAC Scarab cannot be disassembled, but I do have a Branson 2210 (heated) ultrasonic tank. I use Carbon-X and you can see the cloud of carbon residue floating out until it is perfectly clean. Also, I only shoot RWS sub-sonic, as it is very clean and a very consistent velocity. Carbon-X is water soluble and rinses clean. I avoid first round pop in The Scarab by not shaking all the water out, or, if it's already dry, a quick squirt of Rem Oil. It's very quiet on my MkII. I just hold my thumb on the bolt to avoid bolt slap. On the 77/22 it's super quiet.

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My can is a Rex Silentium Seg 22. Here is a test of several cans on a TX22. The seg is the last one tested.

You should at least try this method. Not only is it cheap and easy to clean, the Sil-Glyde coating on the baffles also eliminates the 'first shot pop'.