Is the paper that S&W firearms come wrapped in good for using long-term to store a firearm? See, I've been using an Outers silicone-impregnated cloth for a final wipe-down of my gun after cleaning, and it says on the package not to wrap the gun in the cloth for storage, as it could trap water and cause rust, and now I'm becoming paranoid that even the foam in an S&W blue plastic case or any soft wrapping cloth will absorb the residual silicone chemicals from the surface of the gun and potentially cause rust. TIA

I keep a S&W 38 from about 1918 wraped in the tan paper that new pistols come wraped in but first I wipe it down with a cloth like you use and its worked for 21 years but its in a safe with a Golden Rod.

The brown paper is treated with chemicals known as vapour phase inhibitors.... they basically passivate the metal surface and inhibit the effects of atmospheric moisture.

A good coat of quality gun oil will apply a thin protective coating - creating a barrier for atmospheric moisture. If you are really concerned about the foam... give it a light spray of WD40 or any good quality light WD style oil.

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"The older I get - the faster I was"

Never, I repeat...NEVER use WD-40 on a firearm!especially if you plan to close it up in a case or rug...

What bad experience have you had with WD-40 on your guns?

I used to store spare parts in a plastic bag and sprayed some wd-40 for rust protection. after about 3 months to check the parts, they were totally gummed up with some sort of orange wd-goo that solidified. A pain to remove. Now I sore them with Tri-Flow. It smells like Hoppes #9 and stays thin. I wouldn't use break Free either. I found it thickens over time and becomes like honey. It's good for lubeing guns you shoot & clean frequently. I use it, like the teflon in it.

Use Birchwood Casey's Barricade. It works. Period.

This is for Wayne M. In 1980 I built Frank De Haas #2 falling block rifles in .243 and .223 and kept them sprayed down with WD 40 a couple of years later I took one out to shoot opened the action, loaded, When you open this action it has a saftey that slips over the hammer and when I slipped the saftey off it fired. The WD 40 had gummed up the sear and it never slipped into position therefore saftey released, BAM! I check very closely now and use Breakfree now. It can happen in some cases.

A number of years ago, I was forced to store my modest collection of firearms and accessories, in a dehumidified bank vault, inside a locked metal locker. I went over each and every one well, possibly over oiled them, not knowing how long it would be prior to my being able to clean and take care of them.
I used Break Free, and still do, however, some of these were not handled or cleaned for 22 years, and even break free will solidify and be difficult to remove. There was no rust or corrosion on any of them, but little things like the plunger tubes on 1911 had to be replaced, extra attention to get the solidified oil out of the cylinders of revolvers, etc. Like I said, I still use it, but any product over a long period of time will solidify. Most will not have such a storage problem, but at least I know what will work to protect my babies.

EEZOX is the best rust preventative.
The S&W brown paper is good to wrap for rust prevention due to the inhibitor. Similar rust inhibitor paper is available from Brownell's. For really long-term storage they have special bags to seal the firearm in.
I have an old 1911 with little finish left which rusted after only a month when coated in gun oil. Zero problems with EEZOX and rust inhibitor paper which came with lawnmower parts. My other firearms are stored in Bore Stores in a safe.

I have a soft cloth with Breakfree on it. Can I wrap the gun in the rag an store it on a shelf in my closet (air conditioned, humidity controlled)? Will constant contact with Breakfree damage the finish?

Thanks

What do you fellas think is better, the vapor phase chips or the paper or the spray/lubricant? I've heard concerns that the chips will damage wood if they contact it; anyone heard any horror stories of vapor phase technology of any sort damaging any finish (nickel, bright stainless, gold inlay, silver inlay...etc.) or wood grips or plastic grips? Thanks

I have been experimenting a bit with the vapor phase bags. I do find that it leaves something on the polymer and metal. I wouldn't say it was a residue. But the metal comes out looking half fogged, some dull areas, some bright area.
These are vapor phase PLASTIC bags I have been using after wiping down the firearms with Eezox.
The guns always look perfect after I wipe off the fogged areas, so I doubt it's doing damage, probably just doing it's job.
That said, I doubt I need the bags or chips.
I believe simply using eezox or barricade or boeshield( or any similar wax preservative) would do as well.
After all, the vapor phase is working by releasing a gas that keeps moisture at bay. The eezox is doing that as well, and it's double the protection, but I believe not necessary.

I am about to stop using the vapor phase and just go eezox and maybe a silcon gun sock. I have stored blued firearms with eezox and gun socks in sauna like conditions for months with no damage.

One item I do like a lot are the B/C coppertech gun cases . These also neutralize moisture and gases, but last up to 20 years versus the vapor phase 1-2 years.
I have a mini 14 in one such gun case, and notice no changes to scope, lens,plastic, wood, no residue or changes of any kind when using the coppertech interceptor gun cases or sleeves.

Eezox and a silicon gun sleeve will get the job done I have no doubt. But if you really want the ultimate, try the eezox and the coppertech gun sleeves/cases.

+1 on the EEZOX it is the best thing going for long term storage. I put it on all my safe queens and do not wrap them in anything. Many museums use it for metal pieces also.
I did my own rusty nail test here in Florida, outside with salt spray. Several weeks and the eezoz nails showed no sign of rust. Breakfree CLP and Ballistol did pretty much as well.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

Either from Warren outdoor or Midway has it.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I have had excellent luck using Birchwood's "sheath" which is now called "barracade". Then wrap the gun with S&W vci paper.You can still order the vci paper from S&W customer service.ps try to keep the lube off of the grips.

The paper is called VCI paper (volatile corrosion inhibitor) and is treated with chemicals to prevent rust or corrosion on metal objects. The military uses it for firearms storage and many manufacturers of metal parts ship their parts in it. I use it to wrap all my firearms in before placing them in cardboard boxes. I also use EEZOX before wrapping them up. I've never had a rust problem. You can buy a very large roll of VCI paper from Uline (just google it) for about $40...It will last you for a lifetime.

Mine guns rusted in a matter of weeks using WD40. WD40 is basically kerosene with additives and it WILL NOT prevent rust. There will probably be a couple of posts to tout the wonderful rust inhibiting qualities of WD40 but do not believe it...They were just plain lucky. I learned the hard way.

Yet another Eezox fan...check my other recent posts for further testimony.

A source for anti-rust paper, silica gel and desiccant as well as bags for storage is- uline.com

I work for the Boeing Co. and some time ago I was made aware of a product originally produced by Boeing for flight control cables - now mostly replaced with "fly by wire" on commercial aircraft. The name of the product is T-9 Boeshield. It has a fair amount of waxes, and is currently marketed at about $12 for an 11 oz. spray can for marine applications and similar corrosive environments.
Shortly after I became aware of the product, a colleague sent me a copy of a test done for long term storage of firearms. Among products selling for upwards of $30 a can, the test included Boeshield, and consisted of high stress tests like salt fog, salt water emersion, etc. Surprising to me, the no. 1 product was vaseline - that's right - simple petroleum jelly. The no.2 product from the test was T-9 Boeshield!
I do not recommend it for short term storage, as I started using it in place of simple gun oil after shooting and cleaning and found that it wasn't long before it actually gummed up my Beretta 22 pistol and caused loading problems. So I returned to gun oil after regular cleaning, but use T-9 Boeshield routinely on a cleaned gun for long term storage. Sears carried it for some time, but it is widely available online.

When I deployed overseas, I cleaned my guns, greased them with RIG, then sealed them in brownell's plastic bags with their VPI paper. One thing led to another and it was 15 years before I could get them back. All were in perfect shape. Of late I have been wiping them down with Boeshield.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Maybe not........However. Not to start a WD40 War.

I have for many years kept a can of WD40 and a rag on top of my gun safe. Unless I plan to do a major cleaning after shooting I just spray the rag and wipe down the gun and store it in a white sock(foot sock). And my guns stay nice and pretty like anyone else's. No rust problems ever. I DON"T hose down the insides with it or anything else.

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S&W Accumulator

I use Ballistol as a cleaner, lube and protectant.

There's a good comparison of Eezox vs. Ballistol and a buncha other stuff here.

I've read Weapon Shield is also an excellent CLP.

Where can I purchase the rust inhibitor? And EEZOX. I agree with the WD40 it will cause rust not prevent it.

Two of the best corrosion tests I have seen:

Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage

The Gun Zone -- Corrosion Test

The BEST method of storing a gun long term that I have ever found is:

Disassemble, use RIG UNIVERSAL GREASE inside and out, reassemble gun.

Then wrap the greased gun in a piece of waxed paper and then in a piece of aluminum foil. Your gun will now be preserved for a loooooonng time!

The S&W brown treated wrapping paper (available from Smith) is fine for everyday storage of guns that are used regularly. I buy this stuff from the Factory and use it on non Smiths also. Kind of sacrilegious to see S&W paper on Colts, Brownings, etc, but it works none the less!

Chief38

It may not be the best, but a 1 lb can of RIG I bought in the early 80s has served me well. Storing blued guns in non-air conditioned Georgia buildings is a challenge.

It was out of production for a long time, is it available again?

Here's my 2 cents on WD40 since I've been through the topic extensively. Should help wrap up the topic.

As most people know but often forget, the "WD" refers to water displacing. The reality is that the product is very good at doing its job- displacing water- but tends to fail when other uses are assumed. It's major ingredient- fish oil- is not a synthetic designed for long term storage and rust inhibition.

If your firearm gets wet, WD40 will help you prepare the surface for rust inhibition. Beyond preparation, there are other products to use.

No fish oil.

"Myth: WD-40® contains fish oil. Fact: Consumers have told us for years that they've caught some of the biggest fish ever after protecting their fish hooks and lures with WD-40®. We believe this legend came from folks assuming the product must contain fish oil since it appears to attract fish. Sorry Charlie®, it just ain’t so. Learn more"

From the WD site:

Fun WD-40 Facts - Read WD-40 Myths, Legends and More!

WD40 is not meant for guns . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .