Hi Friends, new member but long time lurker. Inherited used 10-6, 4 inch skinny barrel, some nicks and scrathes decent blue. As received, loaded with 6 unfied rounds. Can not swing out cylinder, can't cock hammer, can't depress trigger (with caution), can't cylinder release. Have owned stock M&P's, this prob different than others which were backed out ejector rods. I disassembled carefully, starting with hammer spring then disassembled. Have frame with all parts out except cylinder assembly, ejector rod and front latch under barrel. Tried to push cylinder release using orignal parts, then used puch to push, its frozen. Verified ejector rod was tight, loosened and retightened using popsickle stick method to verify it was tight. Cylinder now free spinning in frame. Frame and ejector rod appear straight. The underbarrel latch pin doesn't look centered. I wonder if its stuck? Have never punched pin out. Any suggesion appreciated.

Hi Friends, new member but long time lurker. Inherited used 10-6, 4 inch skinny barrel, some nicks and scrathes decent blue. As received, loaded with 6 unfied rounds. Can not swing out cylinder, can't cock hammer, can't depress trigger (with caution), can't cylinder release. Have owned stock M&P's, this prob different than others which were backed out ejector rods. I disassembled carefully, starting with hammer spring then disassembled. Have frame with all parts out except cylinder assembly, ejector rod and front latch under barrel. Tried to push cylinder release using orignal parts, then used puch to push, its frozen. Verified ejector rod was tight, loosened and retightened using popsickle stick method to verify it was tight. Cylinder now free spinning in frame. Frame and ejector rod appear straight. The underbarrel latch pin doesn't look centered. I wonder if its stuck? Have never punched pin out. Any suggesion appreciated.

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Pisgah

With a strong light, see if you can see light between the cylinder and the barrel(forcing cone). You should be able to see a small gap the whole width of the barrel.

Post a pic of it.

Sounds like the forward locking bolt, and/or the cylinder center pin is seized. Try dribbling some solvent or penetrating oil on it. Use a thin knife blade to force the tip out of the end of the extractor, and back into it's recess in the barrel lug. The cylinder release thumbpiece should move fully forward to release the cylinder. If it does not, something is stopping it.

Hi John Traveler, took your advice and used knife to force tip forward out of barrel lug about 1/4 inch leaving no contact with end of extractor. The forward locking bolt is free to move. Pushing Thumbpiece and cylinder outward did not free it. Thumbpiece cannot push forward. I'm certain center pin is frozen. Soaking in WD40 now, will try penetrating oil next. Will report later. Thanks

Time to use a nail set or thin punch to GENTLY tap on the cylinder release slider, the back of the part that pushes the cylinder center pin in during cylinder release.

Another option may be to drive out the crosspin that secures the forward locking bolt and partially unscrew the extractor rod. That should allow more wiggle room for the center pin to more forward when you tap it.

Before I took the forward locking bolt apart, I would lift the side plate and look at the cylinder release where it enters the frame. Sounds like it is broken.

Hi Everone & John Traveler, I got the cylinder open and out! After Wd40 for hours, thumbpiece wouldn't budge. From the inside, gap between cylinder release slider and stop on inside of frmae was less than 1/8 inch. Took all parts out, the round hole in frame for center pin is 1/4inch. Used 3/16 punch and tapped cener pin back toward cylinder. Cylinder swung out. Took cylinder apart and have ratchet star with stuck center pin. Still don't know why its stuck, but will carefully continue tapping tomorrow.

Hi Friends, I want to wrap up my saga of the stuck cylinder. The center pin was gently tapped inward and out. The last quarter inch where it enters the frame is bent and there's a 180 degree depression at start of the bend. I'm going to order new center pin. Reassembled and action cycles fine without cyclinder. Don't see any other reason for action to be jammed originally but the double action sear has a raised lip on it, shouldn't be there by comparison to another M&P, cracked grip and hammer rubs frame and not centered... that will be another post.