can a Mim hammer be bobbed

Jebus35745 · #1 01-19-2009, 07:22 PM

Just bought a 66-5 with the MIM hammer. I want to cut the hammer for ccw. Are there any problems cutting off the spur? Larry

Jebus35745 · #2 01-19-2009, 07:22 PM

Just bought a 66-5 with the MIM hammer. I want to cut the hammer for ccw. Are there any problems cutting off the spur? Larry

tomcatt51 · #3 01-19-2009, 07:28 PM

They cut fine, polish up nicely, and accept cold blue easily.

Bullseye Smith · #4 01-19-2009, 08:46 PM

Here is one that has been cut.

Jebus35745 · #5 01-20-2009, 07:00 PM

Thanks. Bullseye, What grip is on your gun? Is it a boot grip? Just bought a 66-5-21/2" and want a nicely figured grip for it. Had boot grips on it but my pinkie hangs off the bottom. Want something else.Larry

Bullseye Smith · #6 01-20-2009, 09:59 PM

It is a Ahrends grip, just a standard round butt. You will like it, best out there

.

http://ahrendsgripsusa.com/

bill_in_TX · #7 01-22-2009, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tomcatt51:
They cut fine, polish up nicely, and accept cold blue easily {emphasis added].

Any particular cold blue with which you've had success on MIM parts?

I bobbed a MIM hammer on a Sig and tried Birchwood Casey touchup cold bluing. It didn't do anything -- even after about 10 applications.

bountyhunter · #8 01-22-2009, 05:06 PM

Most stainless will not accept bluing liquid. If it does anything, it's typically just a very slight darkening. The bluing liquid has to form some kind of cuprous oxide with the steel as I recall, and the stainless doesn't react.

The other thing I have noticed is the surface hardening on SW hammers will resist bluing.

tomcatt51 · #9 01-22-2009, 08:50 PM

The MIM hammers I've cut are all S&W revolver pieces. I use Birchwood Casey Perma Blue. Turns the S&W parts almost black. I reshape and (cold) blue the MIM triggers also. Next time I have the TIG set up I'm going to see if MIM parts will weld. Just curious and I've got left over hammer remains to try it on.

bill_in_TX · #10 01-24-2009, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bountyhunter:
Most stainless will not accept bluing liquid. If it does anything, it's typically just a very slight darkening. The bluing liquid has to form some kind of cuprous oxide with the steel as I recall, and the stainless doesn't react.

The other thing I have noticed is the surface hardening on SW hammers will resist bluing.

While it's possible, I don't think that the Sig hammer is stainless(I know the slide is, but that's also milled). I suspect that maybe you hit on a more likely issue with the hardening. That hammer was tough as hell and the bobbing was only enough to take the serrations off the cocking part (for a DAO 239).

tomcatt51 thanks. That was exactly the same blueing that I tried, with little success.

bountyhunter · #11 01-24-2009, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bill_in_TX:

Quote:

Originally posted by bountyhunter:
Most stainless will not accept bluing liquid. If it does anything, it's typically just a very slight darkening. The bluing liquid has to form some kind of cuprous oxide with the steel as I recall, and the stainless doesn't react.

The other thing I have noticed is the surface hardening on SW hammers will resist bluing.

While it's possible, I don't think that the Sig hammer is stainless(I know the slide is, but that's also milled). I suspect that maybe you hit on a more likely issue with the hardening. That hammer was tough as hell and the bobbing was only enough to take the serrations off the cocking part (for a DAO 239).

tomcatt51 thanks. That was exactly the same blueing that I tried, with little success.

I don't know if SIG hammers are stainless. The slide on my 226 is blackened stainless.... which is kind of odd to begin with. The hammer is also black, don't know if it is SS. I do know most gun makers either surface harden or fully harden hammers and sears to get good wear resistance on the faces that rub.