As most of us are aware, lightening the trigger on the 617 or any other .22 cal rimfire often compromises reliability. I have read that the factory will not do this work. I have heard that trigger pulls can be lightened by merely storing revolvers with the hammers cocked. Has anyone had any experience with this technique, AND will it work on a 617 ?

I find a LOT more satisfaction AND actual improvement by either

1) taking to someone experienced;

2) following closely Kuhnhousen's tips on spring replacement.

It really isn't THAT hard if you do what he says they way he says to do it.

And a VERY light touch with a ceramic stone seems to be effective too.

Do NOT take the side grinder to those sears regardless of WHAT your buddies say....

__________________
Dum vivimus Vivamas

You can lighten the 617 trigger without compromising ignition by replacing the rebound slide spring.
This spring (among other functions) powers the trigger.
This has no effect on the main spring, which powers the hammer, which is what determines ignition.

As above, good money, well spent for a S&W owner is a copy of the Kuhnhausen manual.
This is a real pistolsmiths manual on the S&W, and gives explicit details on spring replacement and action tuning without ignition problems.

MidwayUSA - "The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual" Book by Jerry Kuhnhausen

For lighter spring kits, check Brownell's and Midway for "K" frame rebound springs. Due to some problems with .22 "K" frame ignition, stick with the factory original mainspring.

SOOO---I gather from the responses to my question, that this storing of a cocked revolver to lighten the trigger pull is just BS. As I expected, there is no free lunch in America. Thanks for your help........one eye joe

Yes, it's total BS. You can lighten both the DA and SA pulls but not as much as the centerfires. My 617-1 runs ~ 2 1/4 lbs SA and just under 8 lbs DA.

The usual revolver trigger job entails lightly stoning or polishing the rebound slide and possibly the sear or trigger, replacing the rebound slide spring, and replacing the main spring.

On a 22lr, usually it's best not to replace the main spring.

Today, I took my 686 and my 617 to the range. The 686 has a trigger job with a Wolff Standard Power main spring. I disassembled both guns and swapped mainsprings.

I am happy to report that the 617 had a much better trigger pull with zero light strikes. I shot 250 rounds through it --- 50 CCI target, and 200 Federal #745 bulk pack. I got 100 percent ignition.

I am in the process of ordering a Wolff Standard power spring so there will be one in both revolvers.

Here is another trick that has always worked for me, I wouldn't do this for a carry gun, but for a .22 it'll be fine. try slightly bending your main spring with a pair of lineman's pliers....the idea is to make sever bends that are so minor that you can barely notice any difference but the spring is a bit more arched. You should be able to have the strain screw seated all the way down and should notice a bit of difference when shooting it.

I installed a Jerry Miculek spring kit in my 617 as well as my 686. Both have a really lite trigger pull. Kit cost about 18 bucs.