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08-30-2009, 09:04 PM
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.357 cylinder cleaning
How do I remove the ring in the cylinder from firing .38 spec. rounds in a .357?
My brass brush opened up 4 of the 6 cylinders but 2 are still tight. Can I get more aggressive, or just keep on with the .38 brass brush?
Thanks,
Jeff
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08-30-2009, 09:11 PM
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It's safe to chuck up your brass brush in an electric drill motor and spin the brush in each chamber. This method will produce a clean chamber in seconds versus the manual method that takes several minutes and dozens of passes in each chamber.
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08-30-2009, 09:16 PM
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Some folks have luck using a fired, unsized 357 case as a scraper. A slight bell in the mouth can help as well.
Then follow up with more brass brush.
Hit up the local druggies for a Chore-Boy (copper) pad and you can wrap a few strands of it around the brush, should knock it right out.
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08-30-2009, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john traveler
It's safe to chuck up your brass brush in an electric drill motor and spin the brush in each chamber. This method will produce a clean chamber in seconds versus the manual method that takes several minutes and dozens of passes in each chamber.
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+1 I clean my revolver chambers this way. For .38/.357 a .40 cal bore brush seems to work best.
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08-30-2009, 09:34 PM
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A Lewis Lead Remover should do the job also.
I've never been a proponent of shooting .38's in a .357 because of just this situation although many do so. Getting proficient at removing build-up from the chambers is just something I don't need to have on my resume.
Bruce
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08-30-2009, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff423
How do I remove the ring in the cylinder from firing .38 spec. rounds in a .357?
My brass brush opened up 4 of the 6 cylinders but 2 are still tight. Can I get more aggressive, or just keep on with the .38 brass brush?
Thanks,
Jeff
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Fire three cylinders full of .357 Magnum Jacketed Hollow Point loads!
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08-30-2009, 09:52 PM
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I use the Brownells "Tornado" brush and #9 solvent to clean chambers.
I shoot .38 in .357 chambers all the time for IDPA.
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08-30-2009, 10:15 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I'm embarrassed to admit that I have a Lewis kit and had forgotten it. I just ran it through and "all is well".
Jeff
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08-31-2009, 12:29 PM
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When I used to help train Sheriff's Deputies all shooting was done with 38's, but most of them carried .357's. I bought a Clymer De-Leader. It's basically a chamber reamer, with stops on it. A couple turns, and it cleans all carbon buildup out.
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08-31-2009, 01:04 PM
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I just load light .357's for target/plinking.
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08-31-2009, 01:15 PM
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Scotch Brite pad.
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08-31-2009, 11:51 PM
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I aquired a 686 not to long ago that appeared to have had untold amounts of 38 spl shot threw it & had alot of carbon in the step were the 38 ended & the 357s bottom out in the chamber..
I tried the bronze brush with hoppes#9 + the chore boy on an old 30cal brush but just couldn't get the carbon to come off.. I took the advice of useing spent brass belled out & sharpened the inside case mouth with a tapered reamer & drilled the primer pocket & put a bolt threw with a nut on the outside so I could attache this to my cleaning rod for ease of removal, This realy did the trick as it was chipping the carbon off but still left a small amount behind that I then again was useing the bronze brush with chore boy + hoppes & spun it in a cordless drill on slowest speed & finished with a few seconds in each cylinder hole with the Brownell's Flex hones in medium & then fine..
I was looking down each charge hole with an eye loupe & a bore light..
Here's a pic of the "Tool" I made from a expanded 357 case & made it up to fit my cleaning rod.. Worked well enough that I had to share the tip.. You have to expand the case every 8-10 pushes into the cylinder & being it's brass won't hurt the interior of the cylinders bores..
Gary/Hk
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