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  #1  
Old 08-31-2009, 11:14 AM
sar4937 sar4937 is offline
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Default Wolff spring kit and 617 S&W

Has anyone installed the light main spring and rebound springs in their 617? Which rebound spring did you install? Did you polish, or stone anything? Did you have light strikes when you were finished? Would you recommend it based on personal experience?
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Old 08-31-2009, 11:58 AM
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For the .22, I would not use lighter hammer spring, as I do in the .38/.357.
Misfires are likely in .22.
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:36 PM
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I'm aware of the light strike problem, and Wolff sells a carry-duty spring the is heavier. I was wondering whether anyone had installed the light mainspring, and what was the result. If I was to change the rebound spring weight only, if anyone had recommendations learned from 617's. That spring is the hardest to change, I do not have the tool.
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:53 PM
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Default 617 springs

I put the reduced power mainspring and a 13 lb return spring in both my 617 and K-22. The combo works great, I have not experienced any misfires due to light strikes.
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:17 PM
308 308 is offline
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I've put the 11 lb rebound spring in my 617 and it helped a lot, I have not experimented with the reduced mainspring though: 308
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:11 AM
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I installed the reduced power main spring and the 14lb rebound spring last night. I shoot this weekend, so I will take it along to test fire. It dents the snap caps, but the hammer sounds weak when it strikes.
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:37 AM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sar4937 View Post
I installed the reduced power main spring and the 14lb rebound spring last night. I shoot this weekend, so I will take it along to test fire. It dents the snap caps, but the hammer sounds weak when it strikes.
Maybe because it is weaker than stock, that's the whole idea. The spring (reduced power) works fine but sometimes the stock strain screw is too short. Replace it with an 8-32 set screw, use that to adjust the spring tension (preload) to give reliable ignition. Loctite it so it stays put.

Last edited by tomcatt51; 09-04-2009 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:32 PM
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Talking springs

I'v changed the Main spring in both my 617 and 625 and used 13# rebound sping in both also, what a difference! on my others 686's, 66's, 19's, 57's and 29's 27 & 28 all just the rebound springs feel almost identical to me and to others who tried them. I Didnt stone anything and alot of people told me not to they didnt need to be stoned!! alot said they had problems when gunsmiths other then S&W did it.(stoneing)

Last edited by james56; 09-04-2009 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:34 PM
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Wink Springs

Oh yea I had to do the set screw chang also on the 617 & 625!!
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  #10  
Old 09-04-2009, 10:13 PM
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The MIM parts were all very smooth, I thought they were plastic at first. I want to see if I actually get light strikes before I replace the strain screw. I used Slide-Glide as assembly lube.
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:27 PM
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Cool

check this site out the model 617 board has a lot of info there for you I took there suggestions before i went to the range and got a set screw just incase and sure enough Just like they all said it wont fire and it didnt so I just took the gripe off right there and changed it out the range officer real nosey and watching my every move an
d said damn you really Know your Guns and I had to laugh and thought how I listened to the guys here on this site TheHighRoad.org great site lots of info just for the m-617
james
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Old 09-05-2009, 11:49 PM
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After years (&YEARS) I finally got around to changing all the springs in my m17.....(sound of one hand smacking forehead) what I have been MISSING!!!!

No ignition troubles yet in 100 rounds.
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  #13  
Old 09-06-2009, 10:19 AM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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I listened to the guys here on this site TheHighRoad.org great site lots of info just for the m-617
james
I registered on THR. I was unimpressed. Point me to where there's 617 info there. Seems there's better info here than what I could find there (THR).
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  #14  
Old 09-06-2009, 03:36 PM
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Smile Forum

Yes this is the best forum buy as far, but as for the M17, M617's they have the best info by far, unless theres a M17/M617 thread here now? check the rimfire section there then go down to the M617 or may be its the M17 thread and you'll see what i mean.
DS-10-SPEED is a custom made speed loader for S&W 617 10 shot revolvers. - Windows Live is a good site for M617

OK it called the 617 club on the high road.com there

22 revolver to enjoy for life - THR

S&W 617 / 17 club - THR

hope that helps ya
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  #15  
Old 09-06-2009, 04:37 PM
sar4937 sar4937 is offline
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I took the 617 out to the range today and had 2 or 3 misfires out of 10, so I will be fetching a stainless steel set screw. A cup shaped shim to use over the stock strain screw would be nice. And thanks for the info!
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Old 09-06-2009, 05:05 PM
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let me know where you can find a stainless set screw I was told bye the people I got the regular set screw they didnt make them! Im sure he didnt really know but I didnt look further into it
james
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Old 09-06-2009, 05:28 PM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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let me know where you can find a stainless set screw I was told bye the people I got the regular set screw they didnt make them! Im sure he didnt really know but I didnt look further into it
james
Don't worry about it being stainless. The carbon steel socket set screws are probably the best as they're grade 8. One Tru-Valu near me has 8-32 sockets, the other one only has slots.
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  #18  
Old 09-06-2009, 05:47 PM
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well the family and I went to the range this morning and had a blast the M617 I think felt a little neglegted cause we all keep shooting the other wheel guns lol so the last 15 min.s' it was just looking up @ me and I swear it said how bout me please and then shoot the heck out of her lol what a top noch wheel gun and so accurate man!1
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  #19  
Old 09-06-2009, 07:09 PM
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I'm more worried about sweat rusting the setscrew. Still want to find a way to retain the stock screw using a shim or cap. Marine supplier's probably have the stainless setscrews.
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Old 09-06-2009, 07:29 PM
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Default right

thats why I want to change it to a SS set screw but I was reading in the last issue of Guns & Ammo Book of the Model 1911 the art. on Bar-Q gun how the the gun maker dipped parts in Oil and then torched it to ? degrees and thats one of the best ways to finish steel like cold case hardening I guess
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Old 09-06-2009, 07:36 PM
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I purchased a 617 at a show a couple of years ago. Someone had obviously worked on the action because the trigger was lighter than on any of my other revolvers. My pleasure at the incredibly light and smooth action turned quickly to displeasure when I discovered that about one out of five rounds wouldn't fire in double action (single action was ok). So, I replaced the mainspring with a slightly heavier spring and it's been trouble-free ever since. Afterwards I spoke to someone at Smith who told me that they deliberately put in slightly heavier triggers than in their other K-L revolvers due to the inconsistency of .22 primers.
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  #22  
Old 09-06-2009, 07:57 PM
shawn mccarver shawn mccarver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sar4937 View Post
Has anyone installed the light main spring and rebound springs in their 617? Which rebound spring did you install? Did you polish, or stone anything? Did you have light strikes when you were finished? Would you recommend it based on personal experience?
No. Not needed. 22s are especially prone to misfires and you should stay with factory springs to make sure of positive ignition every time.
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:35 PM
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The used outer cup of a primer will fit nicely over a strain screw.
Tom
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  #24  
Old 09-07-2009, 07:03 AM
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That might be the ticket, Thanks!
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Old 12-18-2009, 07:44 PM
wellfedirishman wellfedirishman is offline
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I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I just got the Wolff reduced power spring for my new 4" 617, and it is showing light strikes.

What length of 8-32 set screw do you need to use with the reduced power spring? I just want to know what size to order.

Thanks for any info!
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Old 12-18-2009, 08:22 PM
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Default Set Screw

Quote:
Originally Posted by wellfedirishman View Post
I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I just got the Wolff reduced power spring for my new 4" 617, and it is showing light strikes.

What length of 8-32 set screw do you need to use with the reduced power spring? I just want to know what size to order.

Thanks for any info!
The set screw I found is 5/10ths in. long. the clerk told me that they didnt make them in SS? But it works just fine and really made a difference, you just have to keep tighting as you fire at the range, until it fires consistently. Never had a FTF since!
Here's a cpl of pic's of my 617
james S&WCA #2281
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Wolff spring kit and 617 S&W-112920091129200911292009_131602-jpg   Wolff spring kit and 617 S&W-2009_1108saydee0131-jpg  

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Old 12-19-2009, 10:30 AM
sar4937 sar4937 is offline
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I purchased a stainless set screw at the local Ace/Westlake hardware store.
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Old 12-19-2009, 11:18 AM
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I installed a Jerry Miculek spring kit in my 617 and 686. Big difference for the better. You can adjust the main spring to prevent misfires. The kit costs about 16 dollars. Good luck
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Old 03-05-2019, 12:00 AM
Joebklyn Joebklyn is offline
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Default What lenghth strain screw to use with reduced mainspring on S&W 617...

I'd like to replace my rebound spring with a 13lb. spring. I've read here that a reduced mainspring will need an 8-32 set screw. I see online the lengths are 3/16", 1/4" , 5/16", 3/8". Is there any particular length to use with the reduced power mainspring? This is only for a 617. Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2019, 10:58 AM
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You want a #8-32 x 1/2" set screw for all S&W revos. All the ones I've done, anyway. Check McMaster-Carr for all fastener needs.

I like the black carbon steel ones best. The stainless ones are softer and the hex gets stripped out easier on them. Use blue LocTite to secure them and you will never have any rust problems, as the Loctite seals the threads. I get the flat point or dog point ones.
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Old 03-05-2019, 03:19 PM
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I've tried everything in my 617. The best I've come up with is an 11 pound rebound spring and the stock mainspring which gives me 100% reliability.

Keep your set screw tight. There is no need to loosen it and defeat the power of your mainspring.

With polishing the internals and adding longer firing pin I've been able to get a sub 7 pound trigger on this gun and it shoots very well.
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1911, 617, 686, hardening, k-22, m17, m617, model 17, model 625, primer, rimfire, s&w

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