I'd like to have a revolver specifically for shooting bowling pins. I currently use a M65. What do I need, and how should I set it up? I'd prefer to stay .357.

The two games I like most are Bowling Pin Matches, and IDPA
Bowling Pin Matches we shoot are broken into 2 classes, automatic & revolver. The matches are two shooters side by side, 5 pins each on a table at about 35 feet, first shooter to clear all pins off his table wins. Deadwood doesn’t count! We shoot 5-7 strings depending on how many shooters are there. The round count is about 50 rounds for each class, some use more.
Heavy bullets seem to work better than fast but that is just my opinion. I think the 45ACP is the round for pins. I have tried 180gr 357 mag and 38 spl. I also tried a 40S&W with 210gr SWC but it always seemed a little weak when the pins start getting heavy. The 44 mag with a 240 going about 800 or so works pretty good too but if you have to reload a moon clip is the fastest way for me.
I think having a red dot sight on whatever gun you choose is also going to be a major factor in how fast you can get them off the table. Lining up front, rear & pin takes time.
My favorite revolver for pins is a model 25-2. It reloads very fast if you can’t get it done with 6.



I also like this Redhawk. A medium load knocks the pins right off.



We always start with fresh pins so I start with a light load so follow up shots are faster. 230gr conical flat point over 4.5 of TiteGroup to start both revolver and auto.
When they start getting heavy I switch to 5.0 of titegroup.
For shooting the automatic class I use this Kimber Classic Custom Target series I. The dot makes things go pretty fast.

__________________
Shoot fast & live long
Warren

A .45 acp with 230 hps will take them right off the table.

__________________
Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

If you want to stay with a 357, I would have it modified to use moon clips.

Kevin

One of two in 357, #1 686 SSR cut for moon clips. #2 627 8 shot that is cut for moons. I have a hard time with my bad hand loading the 627, so I would pick the SSR myself, or any 686.

Our club had a pin match last month. I cleaned up on a few 1911 shooters using a S&W 67-1 with open sights shooting 160gr Billy Bullets. It's all about bullet placement.

Gun is a Model 28, converted to 45ACP, and using a barrel made by Cloward back in the 70's specifically for bowling pins. It started out on a Model 58 chambered in 45 Colt that I rescued and had Bowen customize for me. The barrel is admittedly too heavy for bullseye shooting. I tried it and never used it well enough, but the extra weight is critically important for fast and accurate bowling pin shooting. The Nill grips also help put the gun at a better angle for fast accurate shooting. From the ready position or from the holster, using two hands when shooting, this is a very effective package. The receiver is also drilled and tapped for a scope should one be needed.

I finished 2nd overall at the 1993 Second Chance pin match using a 7-shot Baumannize S&W 27 with the stock 8-3/8" skinny barrel, and 230-grain cast bullets (the ones we called "Lincoln Logs"). I bought the gun from Brian Enos, as a matter of fact. That year Jerry Miculek was right behind me in 3rd place using nearly identical equipment. We actually had an identical aggregate time, and I got lucky and beat him on the tie-breaker.

It goes to show you don't need anything real fancy to shoot pins, but load selection is very important. Those 230-grain .357 were the absolute best for shooting bowling pins. I'm pretty sure H&G discontinued the mold, and I think the only company still selling the bullets is GAT Bullets out of Louisiana.

I love the bowling pin matches, we have a weekly match here at the local range. 3 classes: semi auto, revolver, and .22 class. Any round works well, it is all about the shot placement as noted before. I usually shoot in the 22 class and sometimes the semi auto too. I have better pin knockdown with the 22 personally. We do two flights one person at a time to use as a qualifying measure on the the 4 fastest times. The top four then go to a dueling shoot off until one guy wins the last round. Some say the centerfire rounds are better because they pack more punch, others say the 22 is better due to the lower recoil and quicker target sighting after the first shot. It is fun either way!!! I would suggest going with a 22 or 17hmr in the revolver class so you have more rounds in the cylinder before having to reload(if you don't go 5 for 5)

For pins, my number one choice would be to be shooting my 45ACP model 625



My second choice would be a 610 in 10MM. Probably the 4" over the 6 1/2" just to reduce weight.

357 Magnum would really be down my list for pins. However if it had to be 357 Magnum, then I would be shooting one of my 8 shot model 627s. This one is wearing three dot night sights for rapid target acquisition.

Thanks for the suggestions and pictures. I was thinking a 6" 66. You've given me some ideas. My clubs season dosen't start until April, so I've got some time.

Bowling Pins is great fun. I use a 625 with Winchester 230 HP's loaded to +P+ velocities or a heavy barreled Lew Horton 627 with 230's in 38 special cases. Carmoney's "Lincoln Logs". Gatt bullets doesn't make the .38 230's anymore, I checked, but I think Penn Bullets does occaisionally. What you load depends on where they're putting the pins on the table. At the front of a 3 or 4 foot deep table or at the back for the "little girls" version.

Use a 44 Magnum.

I am getting set for a fun pin match soon. I will be using a 255gr LSWC over 10.5g of HS-6. That should be a fairly effective load.



bob

Aloha,

I use a Model 57, 4" for pins.

210 gr SWC over 7 gr Herco at about 900fps or so.

Shot placement is King

Just Below the belly of the pin will knock it down and off the table cleanly.

I'd have to choose between my 6 1/2" .44 mag and my 6" 25-5. For speed's sake I'd likely use the .45. Plenty big bullet and less kick.

I use my 586 L Comp with a gold bead front sight and Blazer 158 Grain FMJ's. Between the power port dampening recoil to .38 like levels, and the 3inch barrel with goldbead for quick acquisition There is no faster gun back on target.
I just had mine refinished by Robar with NP3 Plus and i will post some pictures as soon as i can.

I like the 4" Model of 1989 in .45 ACP. VERY accurate, easy to reload, plenty of power.....

__________________
'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

I shoot bowling pins at my gun club where they don't really care about the caliber you use. I was using my 686 and 625 for the competition but noticed many were using 22's. Yesterday I brought my 6" 617 and did very well. My fastest times ever. The non existent recoil allowed for faster target acquisition. I was very fun and I'll bring it next time too!

Something in a 45acp, 45 colt or 44 special would be best. Larger bullet mass is preferred.

So a model 25/625 or 24/29/624/629 6" barrel would likely be preferred

When I used to shoot pin matches I used a 625 Model of 1988 in 45ACP. It did a great job.

Hit the White Part by Massad Ayoob is an older but good book to grab on pin shooting, if you can find it. There's good stuff in the book even for those not particularly interested in pin shooting, but interested in guns and shooting in general.

__________________
SWHF #448

I use my competition .22 Brownings for pins plus a Ruger Redhawk in .41 Mag. The .41 mag is a 210g bullet of whatever I happen to have around and around 9g of Unique. Velocity is about 900 FPS. You don't need magnum speed because the recoil will just slow you down. My personal best for 5 pins is with my open .22 at 2.8s flat although I have done 2s flat in practice. We shoot from muzzle touching the table with shot timers. Everybody seems to do it a little different in my area. A good time for an open class .45 auto is in the low 3s range.

i like my 586 4" with factory remington 158 gr. i am no expert, but it seems to work for me.

Timing is traditionally from start signal 'til last pin hitting the ground.
Pins for .22 set on the back edge of the table.
Pins for CF at or near the front of the table, typically 3' minimum from the back edge of the table.

I was fairly competitive with a 5" 610 10mm shooting 180gr RNFP (38/40 bullet).

Running light loads or small calibers at full-size pins is a good way to get bruised or worse. Anything with less power than a .357 will occasionally rebound back at the shooter (bowling pins are hard even before they get loaded up with lead). Many matches have a minimum power factor to avoid injuries.

IIRC, IPSA rules allowed a revo shooter to have a second revolver on the table in front of him, and he could switch if he ran dry. Since ISPA is no more (effectively), almost all of these matches are local with local rules, so I don't know if this is still true.

BTW, does anybody still sell .45 pin-grabbers?

Buck

The 625 was created for pins. If I had pins to shoot locally and wanted to stay .357, I would use my 8 shot 627 and a 200+ grain Carmoney/Miculek load.
With the 2 extra shots and no limitation re competition rules (6 shot max for revolver), it would be my number 1 choice.
If there is a 6 shot limit for revolvers, I would probably stick with the 625 just for the ease re reloading for it.
I actually bought my 625 back in the day with Second Chance in mind. Unfortunately, it went away

Damn it. I want to shoot some pins now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Love your post. I shot at Second Chance in 1980. It was a great time. I did not place well, but loved the experience. I was checking around today and it appears a company called Ballisticast has picked up the 230 grain bullet you are referring to.

We want to start shooting Pin down here using .38 H.D. and Outdoorsman revolvers (or their reasonable facsimiles) and 195+ Power Factor loads. We are very limited as to what we can have due to the caliber restrictions, but N-frame revolvers in .38 Special abound and I'll be looking at getting one of those moulds.

What velocity do you load up to? Any particular powder you can recommend? We don't want to bust anything here, but some pointers would be nice.

My best friend has EXACTLY the same 7-shot cylinder conversion you speak of on a Model 23-ized 8 3/8 inch Smith and was delighted to find out you placed so well with yours. It gives him hope.

So far I have placed 1st & 2nd (Revolver Only Steel Match), 3rd (Steel plate against the Semi-Auto), and today I placed 3rd in a bowling pin match against the Semi-Auto shooters.

All w/my 586 8 3/8" Barrel

As I stated a time or two I'm a revolver guy. I started out using my "stock" 4 in. Model 28, which was my Service Revover when I was in LE.

I moved to my 6 in Model 27 because of the longer sight radius and beter sights.

I use 14.5 grns of 2400 pushing a LSWC at 1328 fps out of my Model 28 (haven't run those loads out of my Model 27 yet).

I tried those 158 round/flat nose bullets because they are faster loading but I found out, after the pins start to get shot up a bit, the round/flat nose (don't know what they are called) zip right through the pins. The LSWCs seem to grab more on the way through with their sharp edges.

New pins it don't matter but as they start to get tore up, the SWCs work better.

Never tired glass or red dots on my revolvers. Used them a bit on my 22s but desided to go to irons for them also, I seem to loose the dot, its easier for me to grab the front sight.

Haggis is correct - seen lots of 40S&W ricochet off pins. Wife got hit in arm with one. For that reason, I prefer to step up to 10mm, like 610 Classic, for pins. 629 or 625 even better yet.

They are tougher than most people think. Best to avoid hitting with birdshot too... Unless getting peppered with back-blast is your idea of fun...

IMHO the best pin loads use the heaviest bullet at the fastest velocity you can still recover from recoil.

For revolvers I use a 627 with American Eagle 357 magnum 158 grain soft points or a model 610 (10mm) with 200 grain Hornady XTPs going at about 1200 fps. Both do the job quite nicely but the 610 really knocks them off the table. Both use moon clips but if you have to reload you are done anyway.