I realize there are many modifications that are not allowed for IDPA stock service revolver, but I'm curious to know what other people have done to their revolvers for competition (I'm hoping to start this Spring). I figure a serious action job and chamber chamfering will be at the top of my list along with an inspection and possible replacement of worn parts. The revolver will be a 4" model 65.

From the current rulebook.

8.2.5. Stock Service Revolver Division (SSR)
8.2.5.1. Handguns permitted for use in SSR must be:
8.2.5.1.1. Any revolver of .38 Special caliber or larger that utilizes ammunition with a rimmed case and is not loaded with moon clips.
8.2.5.1.2. The use of trimmed (shortened) ammunition is not allowed.
8.2.5.1.3. Ammunition used must match the caliber listed on the firearm with the following exceptions:
8.2.5.1.3.1. .38 special in .357 magnum
8.2.5.1.3.2. .44 special in .44 magnum
8.2.5.1.3.3. .45 Auto Rim in .45 ACP
8.2.5.1.4. Barrel length of 4.2” or less (as measured from the front of the cylinder).
8.2.5.1.5. The unloaded firearm must weigh 43.00 oz/1219.0 grams or less.
8.2.5.1.6. Be loaded to the division capacity of six (6) rounds in the cylinder. Seven (7) and eight (8) shot revolvers are permitted, but may only load six (6) rounds.
8.2.5.2. SSR Permitted Modifications (Inclusive list):
8.2.5.2.1. Sights may be changed to another notch and post type.
8.2.5.2.2. Action work to enhance trigger pull as long as safety is maintained (smoothing the trigger face, removing the hammer spur, use of over travel stop, conversion to DA only and addition of ball detent are considered action work and are permitted).
8.2.5.2.3. Grips may be changed to another style or material that is similar to factory configuration, provided they do not weigh more than 2.00 oz/56.7 grams more than the factory standard weight for that model.
8.2.5.2.4. Grip tape, skateboard tape, etc. may be used.
8.2.5.2.5. Cylinder latches may be changed to another factory offering from the firearm manufacturer.
8.2.5.2.6. Chamfer the rear of the chambers.
8.2.5.2.7. Shortening of factory barrels.
8.2.5.2.8. Re-barreling to another factory offering for that model.
8.2.5.2.9. Firearms converted to accept moon clips may be used in SSR provided moon clips are not used.
8.2.5.2.10. Custom finishes.

8.2.5.3. SSR Excluded Modifications (Non-Inclusive list):
8.2.5.3.1. Oversize or heavy barrels.
8.2.5.3.2. Hogue Big Butt grips and similar are not allowed.

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Minimize the variables

Work I have had done on my 64.

Have the revolver gone over and repaired as required. End Shake addressed, Cylinder Gap, etc.
Trigger Job with Wolff Springs.
Chamfered Chambers.
Install a Dovetail 1911 Fiber Optic Front Sight. I prefer Green for the Fiber Optic color.
I am running Hogue Rubber Grips.

Speed Loaders:
The K Frame Jet Loaders are a hair smaller in diameter than a Safariland Comp III. This helps with clearance a little.
You will need 3 as a minimum.

You will also need 3 Kydex Belt Carriers for your speed loaders.

This is a picture of a Big Creek A Model Kydex Carrier with a Jet Loader in it.

You can use an HKS #10 Speed Loader for "Load and Make Ready"

I use my every day leather Pancake holsters. My Match shooting is my concealed carry practice. A Kydex holster is faster, I just do not care for them.

I have a couple Duluth Trading "Workman's Vests in a Tall. I like them pretty well, and wear them all the time, not just at a match.

If you want to be in style. check out Armadillo Concealments vests. They are the hot set up.

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I prefer a 158-160 Round Nose bullet running between 800 and 850 fps. The 105 Power Factor loads will cause you a problem with steel sooner than later.
I shoot lead bullets, the serious guys shoot plated to keep the smoke down.
If you are going to reload:
Use Federal Primers.
For bullets a Plated 150 - 160 grain Round Nose should do it.
For Powder I would try Alliant e3 if you can find any. Start load testing with 3.0 and work up. 3.5 should be about the maximum, but work up to that carefully.

Hearing Protection for handguns. Most shooters at our range are running the Howard Lehigh Impact Sport hearing protection. Great battery life, automatic shut down after 4 hours. The DB rating is a little low, but not a problem for handguns in my opinion.

I would suggest ICORE as another game to try, however we are probably your closest ICORE range. Big Piney Sportsmans Club is in South Central Missouri. We have one shooter from Memphis who comes up now and again.

Bob

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ICORE MO2908

I wouldn't put a fortune into a fixed-sight revolver.
Just as long as it is smooth and reliable, it is fine to learn the game.

As an IDPA match director, I see way too many obsess about having the "perfect rig" before they learn the game and know what they really prefer for competition. Your first few matches will teach you more than I can say here.

Basically you need a holster that covers the trigger, 4 speedloaders, 3 speedloader holders, 3 boxes of ammo, and your model 65. Eye and ear protection, of course. If beginners show up without a legal holster, I start them gun in hand on each stage.

Just go shoot.

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Science plus Art

^^^^^^^^^
This!

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NRA Benefactor Member

Lots of good advice given so far. My take on your question is that you should go shoot some matches first and THEN make an informed decision as to what it is that you WANT or NEED.

I shoot SSR all the time and NONE of my revolvers are modified....my favorite is my Dad's duty K-38 4" from 1949 ( I think)...well worn ...lots of attitude...shoots like a laser beam and is SO smooth.

The only time the side plates have ever been removed was for a deep cleaning. NO gunsmithing EVER....just good old fashioned live fire and lots of dry fire. Even use the original grips and use the original duty holster/belt as it actually covered the trigger guard back then.

Thanks Dad!!

I must confess to having Hogues on the rest of the herd however....Still use HKS speedloaders and pouches as that is what I started with and they give me NO problems what so ever. Might work for you as well.

Cover garments here in Montana are dictated by the temperature and wind chill......I rarely use a 5.11 type vest......usually a jacket or suit and tie as that is how I am often attired.

IDPA was originally concieved as a "use what you actually carry" sport...not an equipment race.

So...we come full circle to "use what you have until it proves to be unsafe or your needs have changed"

A stock M65 is a great choice....let it alone and let it do it's thing for you!!

Randy

I shoot IDPA and have been a SO for about 8/9 years, it is my only regular shooting sport. I usually shoot my S&W 625JM in ESR and sometimes a 66 no dash in SSR and just for fun a S&W 4506 in CDP. All are fun and basicly stock. I did put the JM grip on the model 66 and tried a FO front sight on the 625, went back to the gold dot. Stock guns work fine for me. Jim.

I've been pretty successful shooting in SSR division, and I've gone through a few revolvers. First I chamfer the chamber mouths. Then I polish and contour the trigger face to prevent hot spots/blisters during practice. Then I open up the rear sight notch on adjustable sight models because I like a lot of light on either side of my front sight. Then I'll finish up with a light trigger job and maybe a Wolff mainspring.

Good advise from some here for you.

Run some matches first and concentrate on being smooth.Chamfered charge holes will help. A good action job and a smooth trigger is godsend during rapid fire stages.

But running a completely stock Model 65 should prove no problem. Stick with a 158 gr round nose to help with reloading.

I do take a spare gun with me on matches, just in case.

My primary is this well worn 15-3. A Wilson Combat spring kit, polished rebound slide and a .312 wide forged smooth combat trigger.

I can't find a gunsmith within 200 miles of me who is worth a dang on wheelguns so I do all my own work. I would love to chamfer the charge holes but don't see the need to spend the money on the tools at this point.

I am having a boatload of fun at the matches and on rare occassions actually outshoot some of the SSP and ESP crowd.

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Take your time..quickly.

I shoot a 4" model 15-3 that has had the action smoothed out and spring lightened somewhat but not that much, custom weigand front sight and widened and deepened rear notch, sharp sides taken off the factory grooved trigger, hammer bobbed, chamfered cylinder, new style cyl latch and pachmyer (sp) grippers.
i use safariland comp III slightly modified.
I use a 158 grn plated bullets of TC style ahead of 3.2 of clays and a nice roll crimp to ease speed loads


lots and lots of practice especially the reloads

I have an SSR modification question. Does the new rule book allow the Hogue extended cylinder release now? I'm thinking of adding the "short" extended cylinder release to my model 581. I don't think it will extend past the frame.

SSR: 8.2.5.2.5 "Cylinder latches may be changed to another factory offering from the firearm manufacturer."

The Hogue release will put you into ESR, which requires MAJOR POWER ammunition.

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Science plus Art

Thanks for the input/answer.