I have had it a few months and never really shot it. I figured for 2017 I would switch over to a wheel gun and give it a shot.

Anyway I have a 686 SSR that fits the bill. I made a match on Saturday with it. Total rounds in the last 2 days is around 500 or so. I shot it 250-300 times on Friday just messing around and gave it a decent clean. Yesterday during my match toward the end of the match the cylinder was getting hard to close. I was going to chalk it up to sticking ammo etc but on my final stage I couldn't hardly get the cylinder closed on an empty chamber. Also figured out my reloads and ammo management needs a little work. I kept digging to find my speed loaders which were not where my magazines usually are.

Today I busted out the nylon brushes and started knocking carbon out of the corners. I am not 100% sure but it appears that there is hardly any cylinder gap and some carbon built up here and there causing friction. I guess I am going to have to start taking some spray cleaner with me if I shoot it much more.

Here is a short clip from a couple of the stages. I forgot my mount for my GoPro so had my little one do the work.
CTASA CCC IDPA 11-19-16 - YouTube

Maybe I missed it in the video, but you should be carrying a third speed loader behind your holster with a strong hand load (which seems to be what you settled on - LOL). You're allowed 18 rds on your belt and 6 in the gun to start. I have seldom had to use that third loader, but when you need it, it is certainly nice to have it, Welcome to the use of a wheelie in IDPA.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

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NRA Benefactor Member

You done good. Stick with it. You will get used to it before you know it.
Jim

Bob,

I tried it behind the holster and it felt odd to me which is why I went to the other side with it which also felt odd and off. I am going to run it again this weekend and see how it pans out.

I too shoot wheelguns at my IDPA matches (M15, M625, M64 snub, and GP100). After about 3-5 stages, I go to the safe are and brush out the cylinder, cylinder face & forcing cone- just to be sure.

If shooting lead, then I do it more frequently & use brass brush. I find shooting FMJ lessens the need to brush it out.

I love it when I outshoot bottom feeders at the match. Wheelguns are a hoot.

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Guns + Dogs= Bliss

Be sure to check under the extractor! Unburned powder can
hide there. I hove shot a lot of PPC in the past
and recently some IDPA with a 586 S&W
and never had to brush or clean. Something is wrong.

Jim,

I think the thing that is wrong is the tolerances on the 686 SSR I have. Some of my older Revos you can see a cylinder gap. The 686 SSR I have you cannot. I think topping that with unburnt powder or giblets under the extractor is what gave me fits. I didn't even think to look there and probably cleaned there without even thinking about it. I have about 650 more of the load I loaded for this to go then I may look at something a little cleaner. I am running 5.9gr of HS-6 behind a Xtreme 158 SWC and its very accurate.

Hi Poke

I have a regular 686 for IDPA. I bought it two years ago and I finally shot a few IDPA matches this year (I might add two or three with Pizza Bob). They are great guns but a few comments....

My 686 (and the same with my 929 PC), the revolvers out of the box shoot but in many cases if your going to use it in IDPA then your going to need to have some work done on it. I had the exact same problem you had, when clean the cylinder indexed fine but after about 25 rounds it would get tight. I would do what others suggested, a trip to the safe table to wire brush everything. I tried all different powders and charges still the problem was there. Even VV N320 would cause the problem.

My guess is the cylinder is not square to the forcing cone. But it could be something else but I'm probably right on this.

You have two choices really in my opinion. You can send it S&W and you might get it back working ok. Or what I did and if your serious about competing with the gun you should have a pistol smith go over the entire gun and smooth/lighten the trigger. You probably have if it's stock about a 14 pound pull. Both of my revolvers were that heavy out of the box. Of course this option will cost some $$ but worth it in my opinion. If you do lighten the trigger most likely you will have to use federal primers in your handloads.

To give you an idea, I had the action polished and lighter springs (main/rebound) installed, the actual trigger hook polished, the front sight converted to fiber optic, ball detents in the crane for both open and closed position, the charge holes polished and chamfered and the cyl cut for moon clips, the hammer bobbed and an extended firing pin. The trigger is about 7.5 pounds now. I'm not sure of the exact cost but it was somewhere around $400.00 maybe more. A lot of money but totally worth it. I did have to tweek it because I was getting light strikes but its good now.

Cleaning the gun every stage or two while it might solve the problem will get old very quick trust me on this. Spending the money might hurt I know it did for me but once you get over it all is well. I have not had the problem once since and I have had days where I put almost 500 rounds through the gun. Most, but not everyone that is serious about revolvers and shooting new production S&W have had work done on their triggers. Older S&Ws had lighter triggers from the factory, these days they are very heavy, thanks to the lawyers. When I bought my 929 I took it to the pistol smith without ever firing a single shot.

One last thing not to muddy the waters. I think you should rethink your load. I don't claim to be an expert, far from it but I have friends that very accomplished revolver IDPA and USPSA. Go with a faster powder not HS-6 and a lighter bullet. I have spent a lot of time on my 686 load and mine is XTREME 147g plated .357 (sold as a .357 9mm bullet) with 3.3 grains of Titegroup. In my gun this makes power factor. I knocks down poppers but I'm going to at some point kick it up to 3.4-3.6g for a bit more zing. I know some love HS-6 and 158g bullets but it's way more ammo than necessary for IDPA.

Sorry one more thing. As Pizza Bob mentioned about having your speedloaders on the strong side. I agonized over this myself. Again I'm not an expert in any way shape or form but there are a few notables in my club and so my being awful at this sport is not due to not having good solid instruction and/or inspiration available to me. I watched a bunch of youtubes and really wanted to use a strong hand reload but gave up on it for a weak hand it works for me much better/faster.

Here is a vid, granted the shooter (Josh Lentz) is using an illegal for IDPA pouch but he is using speed loaders and he has won many IDPA revolver titles.