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  #51  
Old 08-20-2012, 04:40 PM
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I've tried to hold my tongue, but someone really needs to point out that the correct spelling for the famed cutlery city in the Ruhr is "Solingen", not "Soligen."

Many knife companies are located there and they use a variety of steels, some probably made there, some maybe elsewhere.

As always, go with the brand and its reputation, not just by the city of manufacture. Puma and Carl Schlieper (Eye Brand) are my favorites, but Linder, Boker (NOT "Booker" ) and others make good knives in Solingen. Ed. Wusthof and Henckels are the primary makers of high grade kitchen knives. I have a Henckels Inernational chef's knife made in China but they say they use German steel, and the quality is high. It seems on par with my German-made Henckels knives.

NOTE: The famed Twins logo for Henckels International has only one stylized human figure on the blade, not the Twins of the Solingen-made knives. ("Zwillingswerk" means "Twin works", the figures representing the astrological sign of Gemini.)

I have one GEC knife and one from Canal Street. Both are touted as premium knives, GEC mentioned in this topic. Neither is any better than my Puma and Carl Schlieper knives and the GEC has grind marks near one blade tang that are unacceptable in a premium priced knife.

I have a couple of Case knives and some genuine (US-made) Schrade Uncle Henrys that are very good value and nice knives. I have not tried the Chinese-made "Schrades" made by the new owner of that once famous US brand. Apart from the brush polish on the blades, the original Uncle Henry line are really good knives.

Be aware that some company has now also bought the Camillus brand. The genuine Camillus knives were very solid values and good knives, some actually being very well made.

Victorinox is the best knife value, I think, and has infinite variety in tools. But I'd look for an older Puma or Schlieper if I wanted a premium grade pocketknife at a reasonable price. Puma is getting pricey and collectible, though. I have a Stockman and a Model 943 lockblade hunter from Puma and one of their Buck 110-like folders. All are well made. (The current Model 943 has a different blade design. That line seems to be using main blades more like the old Model 959, I suppose for production economy.)

In "tactical" folders, I lean toward Benchmade and the Gerber Applegate-Fairbairn lines.

Last edited by Texas Star; 08-21-2012 at 04:34 PM.
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  #52  
Old 08-23-2012, 01:29 AM
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I don't know if there is a best pocket Knife. I love Trappers best, and have a modest collection.
Case is a very good American made knife at a reasonable price.
Buck is another quality brand but watch out for chinese models. Buck subed out some of their knives for a while but they're back in the USA now!
I also have knives by Boker, Kershaw, Schrade, Hen & Rooster,
Kissing Crane, Smith & Wesson, Colt, Winchester, Benchmade, Cold Steel.
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  #53  
Old 08-23-2012, 01:57 AM
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I like Buck. I also have Gerber, Camillus and Kershaw. I don't carry trapper style knives, all of mine are single blade lockers. Some liner lock, some lock back.

Sadly, Camillus is no more. Well, real Camillus. The name has been revived but the knives are different.
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:47 PM
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Kissing crane, Hen and Rooster, Eye brand, Henckels (no longer being made), basically any German made knife, Buck,Gerber,Kershaw...although got to watch the"American made" knife companies as they have several models that are made in china--not bad knives just kinda gets my goat.
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:51 AM
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Could someone please tell me where Rockwell test 56 to 58 means on my knife it's blade is made out of 440 Stainless steal.. The test sticker has a pointer with a little dot in the knife blade where they did the test... What does 56 to 58 Rockwell mean in the real world use as far as usefulness of this blade? Holding a edge and sharpening. Georgge
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  #56  
Old 08-27-2012, 11:33 AM
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The Rockwell hardness test is used to gauge the steel. A higher number is harder to sharpen, but will hold an edge longer. If you go to high the blade becomes brittle.

I like a blade that is a little softer, as it is easier to sharpen. I always carry a steel & stone.

Use your google-foo for a formal explanation..
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  #57  
Old 08-28-2012, 05:33 AM
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Rockwell "C" scale hardness has to be factored in with the abrasion resistance and other qualities of a given steel, but generally, with modern high carbon stainless steels, 58RC is about where you want to be.

Some steels can be as hard as 60RC or a trifle more and still not be brittle. 440C probably would begin to be brittle at that or a little higher hardness. But you have to factor in the heat treatment.

That can matter a lot. For instance, Buck uses (now) 420 steel, whch isn't especially highly regarded as a super steel when used by most makers. But Buck has a heat treatment devised by a celebrated artist in his field (Paul Bos) , and they get better results from 420 than do most manufacturers. And it retains its stainless qualities.

Go softer with most steels than 56RC and you start to lose edge retention. But at one time, Randall was using blades as soft as 53-54 RC. I know, because he told me this personally. I can only think his hand-forging imparted some additional quality, or that factory knives were even softer, or otherwise didn't have the abrasion resistance of his steels, or his would never have gotten such a fine reputation back then. I believe that present Randall knives average 56-58 RC. I was told that they were originally softer, as the maker believed that his customers couldn't sharpen hard blades well. I'm sure that he had plenty of feedback to lead him to reach that conclusion. But knife buyers and sharpening systems have gotten more sophisticated, and harder blades are now routine.

Laminated blades, mainly from Sweden, offer harder core steels sandwiched between softer sides to avoid brittleness that might cause weakness in a blade that was very hard throughout. The famous Mora knives are the best known, and at that relatively cheap level of quality, the laminated blade makes sense. But even in the far more sophisticated and expensive Fallkniven line, owner Peter Hjortberger told me that his VG-10 core blades with 420-J2 sides test some 25% stronger in deliberate breakage tests that involve deep bending in a vise. And the stainless qualities of 420 make it especially desirable for avoiding corrosion. Note that even before he began laminating blades, his solid VG-10 blades were among the toughest and most reliable of any stainless blades in those breakage trials. The tests were carried out at Swedish and US military facilities and at the Technical University of Lulea, Sweden. His knives were adopted for issue to Swedish pilots for survival knives that must perform in extreme conditions in savage cold in winter, to get a fire going if a pilot has to eject from a jet fighter like the Saab Griffon or Drakken.

Later, his F-1 and S-1 knives were placed on the order list for USAF and USN aircrew, with National Stock Numbers for units wanting to order the pricey knives for issue to their aircrews. This was before he began using the stronger laminated blades, so if you have an older Fallkniven knife with solid VG-10 blade, you still have a very strong, tough knife. (The A-1 model also passed trials, but is too large for the sheath on US survival vests. Norwegian forces also used the longer A-2 in Afghanistan and found it to perform very well under combat conditions.)

All knife steels have qualities that are trade offs between edge retention, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpeneing, and general strength. Rockwell "C" scale hardness is only one aspect of the equation. But in general, look for 56-58 RC in most better modern steels, as well as in non-stainless steel like old traditional 1095. Exceptional steels, like 154CM, can be heat treated to over 60 RC and still not be too hard...for that steel! The late R.W. Loveless made much of that when he began using 154 CM. But part of his hype was that added hardness, which got many people hung up on hardness alone. Don't forget the other qualities that keep a steel formula and heat treatment in balance.

Last edited by Texas Star; 08-28-2012 at 06:22 AM.
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  #58  
Old 08-30-2012, 01:11 AM
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Benchmade "Subrosa" Excellent quality, made in the USA, and great every day carry.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:19 AM
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Texas Star,
Thank you for all that great information. I feel I have a much better knowledge of what to look for in a knife now if I'm going to be willing to spend more on a good carry knife.. I like a nice lock back.. I asked about the R Hardness do to the knife that I got that came with a sticker of hardness pointing to the test dimple in the blade stating it's hardness 56 to 58 made out of 440 stainless steal. I got the knife because of it's looks. It's not a expensive knife only $30 on a deep discounted sale.. Said it was a Buck Steal Warrior 1'st Production run limited to 1500 not that that meant anything to me other then I thought it was a Buck brand.. Well it Said China on the blade.. Anyway I did notice it was much harder to put a good edge on it then any other knife I have, even using a diamond steal it takes more time and more care for a good almost scary sharp edge.. I have not used the knife as it's not my type of carry knife so I don't know if or how long it will hold a edge.. But was interested in the steal quality do to the sticker on it pointing to that dimple.. I'm looking for about a 3 to 3 1/2" non serrated lock back of better the average steal for around $60 bucks or so.. I'm fussy and I sharpen my carry knife after every use on almost anything even opening a few envelopes.. I would think a decent knife should hold it's edge from just doing that and I don't want to have to sharpen it so much to keep the scary sharp edge I like to have on a knife.. George

Last edited by George9; 08-30-2012 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:49 PM
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George-

I doubt that you have a real Buck, and it'd say "Steel" Warrior, not, "Steal", which has a different meaning! I've met members of the Buck family and know their history, and they are good Christians. I don't think they'd want anyone to "steal"!

That droll humor aside, look at their Model 112 Ranger, made here. They also used to make a knife about that size called the Duke, I think, not to be confused with the similar-named Puma. May still make it. Ask. It's more streamlined and sophisticated looking and lighter than the heavier brass-framed 110 and 112.

The Chinese maker probably got the idea for the RC sticker pointing to the indentation left by the test needle from Puma. Those stickers came on Puma blades for decades and may yet.
Only firm that used them, to my knowledge.

No idea what heat treatment your Chinese knife has or even if it it's really any 440 series steel. I have very low faith in Oriental-made knives.

I do not generally buy lockblade folders for $60 or less retail price, some Swiss Army designs being the exception. But they are not the sort of knife that you refer to. Maybe you can stay around that cost with a significant discount. I've read that Wally World has Buck knives at deep discount, and they are genuine US-made ones.

You 're overshapening your blades. They should hold an edge far better than needing that frequent a honing! Maybe you've had some really soft cheap blades? I wait until I see a noticeable dulling, enough to tell, then I hone on ceramic rods. Hone too often and you wear away the steel and have to re-bevel the edges.

My Swiss Army or other pocketknives do most of the cutting, so my lockblade folder in a belt pouch doesn't get used as often, and seldom needs honing. It stays ready for heavier work or ...emergencies.

Hint: if you have a Buck Model 110 or 112 or the similar Puma knives (Prince, Earl, Duke, Game Warden, etc. ) , the false edge is sharp enough to open most envelopes, sparing the actual edge.

Hmmm... have you tried looking for unsold Schrade Uncle Henry or LB-7 knives once made here? They may well be in your price range and are good,solid knives. The UH has stag Delrin scales and the LB-7 has wooden ones. They look a LOT like the Buck Model 110, and like the 110, blade length is about four inches. A bit larger than you stated, but a worthwhile thought.

A Puma model called, I think, the Model 0921 would be ideal for your stated size, but you won't see one for the price you quoted. Maybe for 3-4 times that.

Hey! I just recalled that Camillus (?) made some copies of the old Remington 1306 pattern for Remington about 1990. Stag Delrin scales, nickle silver bolsters, 440-A steel, I think. You may find one at a store or show for $60. That'd be a really good choice for so little money. I like mine a lot, and sometimes carry it. The blade just has a satin brush polish, but it is otherwise a nice knife. The same criticism is also true of the Schrade Uncle Henry line. They were very good values for money, if you don't insist on a brighter blade finish.

Last edited by Texas Star; 08-30-2012 at 07:02 PM.
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  #61  
Old 08-31-2012, 08:51 AM
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Texas Star,
Sorry for the type-o's just can't help it.. Ok small lock blade my $60 cap is off but the sky is not the limit. For a good blade that will retain a good edge for a long time is what I will be looking for now.. I live in the north of NH not that many good knife shops here.. I like to pick a knife by type,feel and look with the knife in my hand. I have not talked to anyone here that didn't say there knives are good most made in China or Pakistan.With low low prices.. I know they may be useful to some maybe kids for first knives..I already have my share of junk. My upper end junk is. I have 1 small Gerber lock back 2" blade. it may be a little better then some really cheap knives but not much.. I have a Carhartt lock back 2 1/2" that does seen to be a better knife at least a cut above the rest. I Had found a Buck knife in it's sheath years ago It's not a lock back it's 4" blade with a 3 7/8s" black handle that fits in your hand well it looks like the small version of there larger hunting knife It does say Buck USA on it but the last user used a bench grinder on the blade so it took some work to get it back to a useful knife . It don't hold a edge well IMO! Oh back of black case for it said 102 if that helps.. All my other knives are made by Frost Cutlery In fact yes the Steel Warrior I mentioned in the other post was in fact a Frost knife. I dug out it's org. box this am.. This may give you a idea on what I have and why I'm so dissatisfied with the blades.. I do use the Carhartt and the Gerber the most.. I only lost one knife but it was one that was given to me and it had a lot of sentimental value to me. One other knife somehow I tossed it my wood stove and found it when cleaning it out.. I'm 55 years old now so one would think I should be able to hold onto a pocket knife by now... My use for a pocket knife is anything and everything from wire to wood paper boxes just about anything.. I have a good Letterman that i have a scary sharp blade on and will use it like you only for emergencies. I did cut out a few fishing hooks with it already.Thank you! George
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:19 AM
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I was looking at knifes a while back, I noticed that some of the Buck and Spyco knifes are now made in China, I ended up get a Case 3 blade, small for pocket carry daily. For yard work I have my Buck folder or my K-Bar 5 1/2 blade.
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:21 PM
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I just stumbled onto this thread. I would imagine that the OP has solved the quest by now but thought I would throw in my 2 cents for a fine American made knife.

I have a few Chris Reeve folders and very much appreciate them for their materials and workmanship.

The blades are either S30V or S35VN, the handles, or slabs, are titanium and the tolerances are .0005''. No, I didn't miss count my zeros.
These knives have become an industry benchmark for precision and design by which other knives are measured.


Chris is South African, moved to Idaho in 1989 and has about 12 employees located in a production facility about 4 miles from my sisters acreage.

Needless to say I have not only met him but have been to the shop on several occasions.
If you haven't ever had one and are into knives you owe it to yourself to have a look. They are spendy but, like a S&W, they are a lifetime investment.

They make a small and large version of their Sebenza, this one is a small and it is about six years old. They have a slightly different version out now but the differences are subtle.
The blade on the small is just under three inches.
Also, the slabs are bead blasted but I have used Scotchbright to give it the finish you see below.









It's hard to measure precision in a photo but I thought I would try to show where those .0005'' tolerances come into play. The knife can be disassembled and re assembled over and over and will always come back to true, blade centered and function perfectly.














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Old 12-09-2012, 10:02 PM
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Case knives are very tough to beat for the money and they have a great warranty. If you break it they fix it or replace it. I had a knife that I inherited that the blades were broken, an old Case from who knows when. I sent it in and explained my story, they sent me a $40 trapper brand new no questions asked, hard to beat that type of service. I wish the old Uncle Henry knives were the quality they used to be because I have had the same knife now for better than ten years. I have gutted deer, fish, birds, squirrels etc. I have used it for dozens of things, still holds an edge and has held up to everything I could ask of it. I bought it brand new for $12. You could find them on Ebay but make sure it is an older one as the new one's are made in China.

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Old 01-06-2013, 07:44 PM
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I've got to agree with Lost Lake & scubaSig: #1 on the
Buck 110. I've got one that's 44 years old & still going
strong. It is on its 2nd sheath, though.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:39 PM
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Lots of options. I've owned Bucks, Pumas, Gerbers, Kershaws, Schrade, Case, Bokers, and several others.

In terms of steel, the S30V is pretty hard to beat. But, I'm kinda old fashioned and my daily carry is a large Case trapper with bone scales. Since Case was purchased by the Zippo lighter company many years ago, their quality has improved immeasurably. From what I understand, they brought some of their old metallurgists out of retirement and had them up the quality of the Case pocket knives.

You can get the trapper with either high carbon (chrome vanadium) blades or with what Case calls "surgical stainless," which is probably a misnomer because surgical steel is 61R and too brittle for pocket knives. Normally, I prefer a high carbon steel, but Case's surgical stainless seems to be the proverbial "best of both worlds." It's not that difficult to sharpen and it holds one heck of an edge.







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Old 02-14-2013, 01:54 PM
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OK, for all of you that want the absolute best, check out the traditional folding pattern knives from custom makers Tony and Reese Bose. The fit, finish, and beauty are amazing. The best is never cheap.






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Old 02-14-2013, 02:18 PM
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A Buck 110 is the best quality for the money. Good all around hunting, self-defense, and pocket carry knife. They even come with a quality leather belt holster...And they're made in the U.S.A.
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:23 PM
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Boker, Schrade, Case, Buck, Victorinox Swiss knife, Kabar. I have had good knives in every one of these brands. I have also had a few good Solingen blades. They were easier to touch up that some of the harder stainless blades and held an edge reasonably well. Good comments Gunhacker you sound like you know your steel.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:15 PM
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I was at my LGS today and he showed me a single blade knife foldable knife he had just acquired. He said it was a $600-$800 knife. I will have to get the brand from him as that price is 10X what you all are quoting. I don't have any good knives just some utilitarian scout knifes and a buck knife for skinning. Is it possible he would really have a knife worth that much or was he just pulling my leg. It was pretty heavy duty about 3.5 -4" folded. It also opened from the fold by pushing on the handle. No button or anything... it was very concealed that it would do that.

I just asked him... he called it a Microtech
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbliss57 View Post
I was at my LGS today and he showed me a single blade knife foldable knife he had just acquired. He said it was a $600-$800 knife. I will have to get the brand from him as that price is 10X what you all are quoting. I don't have any good knives just some utilitarian scout knifes and a buck knife for skinning. Is it possible he would really have a knife worth that much or was he just pulling my leg. It was pretty heavy duty about 3.5 -4" folded. It also opened from the fold by pushing on the handle. No button or anything... it was very concealed that it would do that.

I just asked him... he called it a Microtech
He's not pulling your leg. Microtech knives are on the "spendy" side, and that's conservatively speaking.

In all honesty, you have to ask yourself, "Just what the heck am I going to use this knife for?" Are you going to use it for everyday chores around the ol' homestead, i.e. cutting hay bales, opening feed sacks, etc.? Are you going to use it for everyday carry...something to open letters with, clean fingernails, sharpen pencils? Are you going to use it for camping and other outdoor chores such as skinning out an animal, making kindling, cleaning fish?

If you answer "yes" to any of the above, you probably won't need an $800 knife. A $40 or $50 knife will cover all of those tasks and then some...and do so admirably.

If you break it down to its smallest components, a knife is no more than a sharpened piece of something (steel, obsidian, ceramic, bone, etc.) usually attached to a handle of some sort.

The cost usually reflects such things as quality of steel, edge retention, sharpening ability, craftsmanship, hand-finish work, handle material, and quality of other components, i.e. bolsters, springs, pins, etc.

A good quality piece of AUS-8 or 440A steel is going to do you a good job at whatever task you put it to, short of cutting steel cable. It really doesn't matter if it has a titanium handle with genuine simulated mother-of-pearl grips with a tiger's paw inlaid in the cap.

I've seen some pretty plain-Jane-looking, high-carbon steel knives that do a heckuva job...and their cost was under fifty bucks.

Sure, you can get some handmade, custom-made, personally fitted knives for a lot of bucks, but will they do the job overwhelmingly better than a fifty- or sixty-dollar knife with a good edge? Mmmmm....probably not.

I have some beautiful and fairly expensive knives in my collection. Are they really ten times better than a knife that is one-tenth the cost? Oh, I'm sure I could rationalize and say, "But the handle fits me perfectly and it's intricately balanced...blah, blah, blah..." But when push comes to shove, and if I'm totally honest with myself, I probably paid a lot for the name and the prestige, if you can call it that.

Just my view from the saddle. Your mileage may vary.
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:51 PM
Cooter Brown Cooter Brown is offline
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He's not pulling your leg. Microtech knives are on the "spendy" side, and that's conservatively speaking.

In all honesty, you have to ask yourself, "Just what the heck am I going to use this knife for?" Are you going to use it for everyday chores around the ol' homestead, i.e. cutting hay bales, opening feed sacks, etc.? Are you going to use it for everyday carry...something to open letters with, clean fingernails, sharpen pencils? Are you going to use it for camping and other outdoor chores such as skinning out an animal, making kindling, cleaning fish?

If you answer "yes" to any of the above, you probably won't need an $800 knife. A $40 or $50 knife will cover all of those tasks and then some...and do so admirably.

If you break it down to its smallest components, a knife is no more than a sharpened piece of something (steel, obsidian, ceramic, bone, etc.) usually attached to a handle of some sort.

The cost usually reflects such things as quality of steel, edge retention, sharpening ability, craftsmanship, hand-finish work, handle material, and quality of other components, i.e. bolsters, springs, pins, etc.

A good quality piece of AUS-8 or 440A steel is going to do you a good job at whatever task you put it to, short of cutting steel cable. It really doesn't matter if it has a titanium handle with genuine simulated mother-of-pearl grips with a tiger's paw inlaid in the cap.

I've seen some pretty plain-Jane-looking, high-carbon steel knives that do a heckuva job...and their cost was under fifty bucks.

Sure, you can get some handmade, custom-made, personally fitted knives for a lot of bucks, but will they do the job overwhelmingly better than a fifty- or sixty-dollar knife with a good edge? Mmmmm....probably not.

I have some beautiful and fairly expensive knives in my collection. Are they really ten times better than a knife that is one-tenth the cost? Oh, I'm sure I could rationalize and say, "But the handle fits me perfectly and it's intricately balanced...blah, blah, blah..." But when push comes to shove, and if I'm totally honest with myself, I probably paid a lot for the name and the prestige, if you can call it that.

Just my view from the saddle. Your mileage may vary.

Excellent post. I've got a fair number of pocket knives I rotate. Mostly Case and GEC. Some of the GEC knives are spendy (100+ bucks for some of them depending on handle material--some are 60 or so) but a knife like Mulepacker says in his fine post is after all just a tool you use to cut something else with. Get a a decent knife that feels good in the hand made from steel that strikes a balance between ease of sharpening and edge retention and you're there. Past that it's a matter of pride of ownership and aesthetics, which both count no doubt but don't cut anything.

For what it's worth, I think the Case CV (chrome vanadium) is far better than their stainless. The CV takes a great edge.

Loves me some pocketknives.

Here's one from GEC I really like. Good old 1095 steel. I've got this one right now where you could shave with it:


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Old 02-16-2013, 11:58 PM
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what is the best pocket knife on the market and i am talking about blades that are made our of the best steel available? i like the trapper 2 blade style. i want to splurge and for once buy the best quality pocket knife i can get. any suggestions
You will probably get as many opinions on this as there are knives! So, I will just say that I have used the Cold Steel pocket knife for years without issue.

Well, that is not entirely true. Once, I sheered off a Tanto point (yes, you read that right) while prying open a locked steel box to which the key had been lost. Cold Steel replaced it, no questions asked. This was in about 1998 or so, and I have no idea if they would do that now. On the other hand, I have not abused my Cold Steel in that fashion again. Mostly, it is used in a very tactical application: to open cardboard boxes!

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Old 02-19-2013, 07:18 PM
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I just picked up a kershaw knife Model Crown#3160wm had and used it long enough now to say it's a really decent inexpensive knife that's quite good looking medium sized lock blade. It does hold it's edge well over time with hard use.. I had it now for about 5 months or so and use it every day. I would not say I could shave (Never tried) with it but I would call it scary sharp. point is it holds a edge well.. Just what I was looking for for a insane low price in WalMart.. Lifetime warranty and lifetime sharping too.. you only pay one way they ship it back on there dime.. but most will do there own diamond steel sharpening my guess would be..Just another darn good looking knife that's decent at a low cost.. Guess there out there if you look for them.. George
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:20 PM
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what is the best pocket knife on the market and i am talking about blades that are made our of the best steel available? i like the trapper 2 blade style. i want to splurge and for once buy the best quality pocket knife i can get. any suggestions
There are many makers of trapper pattern knives who produce excellent products. I have a trapper pattern knife w/ stag scales made by Hen & Rooster that I bought for my father around 2000. After he passed away in 2007 it was returned to me. It is one of the smoothest nicest handling knives I've ever owned. The quality of workmanship as well as the blades is excellent. JMHO.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:43 PM
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what is the best pocket knife on the market and i am talking about blades that are made our of the best steel available? i like the trapper 2 blade style. i want to splurge and for once buy the best quality pocket knife i can get. any suggestions
In order to help you best, you need to supply your criteria:

* How much does "splurge" mean?
* Do you want a folder or a fixed blade?
* Steel...which one did you have in mind?
* Country of Origin; does it matter where it's manufactured?
* Blade length?
* Overall length?
* If you want a folder, overall closed length?
* Handle/scale type; ie: wood, G10, Micarta, FRN, etc?
* Anthing else you want to add?
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:25 PM
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I've got to agree with Lost Lake & scubaSig: #1 on the
Buck 110. I've got one that's 44 years old & still going
strong. It is on its 2nd sheath, though.

Me too. I carry a 110 with me everywhere I go. I own three of them, one on my jeans one on my shorts and one on my work pants. I used to have three different sheaths on the three pairs of pants and move the knife, but I got tired of leaving the house with an empty knife sheath. My oldest and favorite is from the early 70's and is worn down to a stilleto, the next is from the 80's and is almost as bad, the newest is brand new and I still get startled when I flip it open and see how big the others are supposed to be! They all hold an excellent edge, and the newest has the nicest wood. None of them get babied. I've lost count of the number of sheaths I've worn out, but I'm sure it is over 10.

Best low budget knife is Opinel, really nice blades really simple handles and simple lock mechanism lots of different sizes.

Best camp knife, the 4 blade stainless steel army knife, most often seen made by Camillus, but made be many others.

Best sheath knife, Ka bar, or Pal, I prefer the shorter Navy deck knife over the longer Marine fighting knife. Ed
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:14 PM
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I've bought around 20 benchmade knives. Mostly from around 1992 to 2000. A couple of them are "collector" type knives but the rest are users. All of them lock up really tight. They are all great users but I gravitate to the Mel Pardue and Pat Crawford designs that I have. They are not cheap, but they sure don't cost as much as a nice (or even better than nice) used S&W revolver as many custom knives do.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:11 AM
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All very good mentions above, a trapper is a traditional style so look towards those mfgs. that make them. GEC top of the line,about $125 or so
Case very good $65-$85 depending on materials .If you want top of the line steels, then look at Spyderco or Benchmade, $100-$$300 but not real traditional styling.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:03 AM
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Default AS ALWAYS PERSONNEL PREFFERENCE

What do you really use it for? if just opening mail or picking your teeth, then I prefer a single thin blade that is light and disappears in your pocket, an old 2 1/2" case works fine. now with modern single hand openers I more often carry a Kershaw leek. for hunting, fishing, self defense a fixed blade neck knife for me. for boating the neck knife again plus a pocket folder with a marlin spike. the multitools are awful handy. imo the old schrade/ case/ old timer/ uncle henry high carbon steels are about as close as the US came to the "Solingen" steel reffered to. like most of you no doubt, I have a drawer full also.
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:05 PM
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Another vote for the older US-made Schrade Old Timers, produced before their QC slipped for a while just before the company went under. The 94OT is my favorite trapper and feels better in my hand than almost any pocketknife I've ever owned. I generally prefer stockman patterns for versatility, and the 8OT is a very, very good one. I think 1095 steel, properly heat treated, is the best there is for taking and holding a fine edge, and for ease of re-sharpening. The patina it develops is its way of fending off rust, and I've patinated a number of knives deliberately.

The short-lived Cold Steel Country Classics pocketknives, which I'm pretty sure were made by Camillus, are excellent for the money if you can find them. They offered a full-sized and medium stockman, a full-sized trapper, a muskrat, and another I can't recall because I never got one. Lockback, I think.

I had a Moore Maker muskrat made by Camillus that was very nice.

I always carry a Swiss Army knife for the tools. Lately I've had a SOG Flash II clipped in my pocket. Assisted opener, 3.5 inch blade, steel seems decent--AUS-8, I think. But I keep coming back to the Schrades.

DO NOT bother with any of the Chinese-made knives bearing the Schrade name. The ones I've seen are junk compared to the originals.
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 44magsam View Post
what is the best pocket knife on the market and i am talking about blades that are made our of the best steel available? i like the trapper 2 blade style. i want to splurge and for once buy the best quality pocket knife i can get. any suggestions
The best workmanship is Case VS Boker as it has been for 50 years. Boker is by far the more modern company today. Case keeps putting out what they have been doing all these years. Otherwise it depends on what the production runs are on the knife your looking for.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:11 AM
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The short-lived Cold Steel Country Classics pocketknives, which I'm pretty sure were made by Camillus, are excellent for the money if you can find them.
Cold Steel hired an attorney and forced Camillus to remove the Cold Steel knives from the auction and send them to Cold Steel to fill their final order. There were hundreds of hand operations that went into making those knives. It was just to much work for this younger generation. Some of the knives I got from them were unfinished and I had to grind and buff them out myself. I do not think I would want to do that 8 hours a day 40 hours a week. That is why people like Frost have the blade made in Germany then ship the blade to China to put into a knife.
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:32 AM
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I have have a bunch of Frost knives and they are about the worst knives to hold an edge. Worst steel.. I have one that has a Prof mark Rockwell 56-58 I think it's just a number. Maybe Forst makes some good steel in their knives but I have not seen one. My cheap kershaw knife Model Crown#3160wm I have now for some time is doing a great job.. I just don't have the $$$ so spend on a good knife as much as i would want too.. I know I would lose it for sure! Now the cheaper knives seem to stay with me. George
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:52 PM
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Default Cold Steel

I understand that the Cold Steel line is very good. Here is a link.

Espada Series - Cold Steel Knives: World's Strongest Sharpest Knives
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:00 PM
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Don't buy one til you look at Moore Maker Knives made in Matador, Texas. Great trappers!!
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Old 11-07-2013, 03:58 PM
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I have a small Case pocketknife, small but a little larger than what I consider a "pen knife". I'd like to get something a ittle larger with two blades, plus phillips & flat screwdrivers and maybe an awl. But nothing too spendy, too big, or bristling with stuff like the Swiss Armies. Maybe something like an old Boy Sout pocket knife. This won't be used for knife-fighting or sawing off tree limbs-- more likely for opening boxes, cutting string, etc. It's gotta fit into my front pocket without wearing through the material in a month too. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:42 PM
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For what you want and a little more I like the Leatherman. I have carried one for 10+ years and is all around useful well made tool. knife in it and can be as sharp as you want it.. Has a small leather Belt sheath. Good tool for under $50 bucks.. Can't go wrong with it! George
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:46 PM
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Smile I like the Buck knives.

I do have a trapper. It is an Oldtimer and a very nice little knife. Easy to sharpen and holds an edge fairly well. It is what I use for cutting baler twine, skinning electrical wires and such. I have carried 2 Buck knives for the last 20 years or so. Currently I carry the one on the left with the green insert. before that it was one just like it with a black insert and the only knife I have ever lost. It is a Buck 180/. The stainless one on the right is a Buck Rush assisted opener and it is very nice. I bought it for my Son a few years ago for Christmas and he just left it here. I truly do love that 180/. It cuts only meat. Skinned a lot of deer and is what I would consider a pretty good SD tool.
Trying to find the perfect knife is going to be as hard as trying to find the perfect revolver..................65......
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:01 PM
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Another vote for Case knives. They are made in the USA. Right here in Pennsylvania.
Although not a pocket knife, I also like a Buck 110 folding hunter.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:07 PM
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Lots of good responses. You really need to define your requirments in order to decide what is best. Pocket knife to me fits a pretty good range of folders. I prefer lockbacks and have had many including Buck, Kershaw, Coldsteel and others. The knives that i carry daily in various models depending on what i'm doing and wearing are Spyderco. My favorite is the Delica. Perfect for most things and still compact and very strong. I've been carrying it for well over 15years. I also have smaller models without clips for carrying in slacks pockets. Spyderco knives like many mentioned are not cheap but will serve you well for decades.

Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hotrod150 View Post
I have a small Case pocketknife, small but a little larger than what I consider a "pen knife". I'd like to get something a ittle larger with two blades, plus phillips & flat screwdrivers and maybe an awl. But nothing too spendy, too big, or bristling with stuff like the Swiss Armies. Maybe something like an old Boy Sout pocket knife. This won't be used for knife-fighting or sawing off tree limbs-- more likely for opening boxes, cutting string, etc. It's gotta fit into my front pocket without wearing through the material in a month too. Any suggestions?
You can find exactly what you're looking for on the Bay. I have an Imperial Boy Scout knife that matches your description perfectly, including a Phillips head driver. It's nice and compact. Delrin scales. Camillus, Robeson, and others made similar knives. They are almost all carbon steel and take a great edge.
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Old 11-24-2013, 07:36 AM
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Chris Reeve Sebenza..its expensive but its worth the price.
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:46 AM
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Go American! There are a number of excellent brands mentioned in this thread. Some of them are all US made and some import and make knives here. You got to read the labeling! But the US made are some of the best in the world.
I own a lot of blades, right now I am carrying a Queen Toothpick.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:46 PM
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Queen knives are very well made knives,they have new owner Ken Daniels former owner of GEC knives (also very good). I like older Case knives from CASE XX to 1979 Dot knives.Case quality was not very good at times from 80's into the 2000's. I did notice an improvement in quality in their most recent lines. I like the new CV Rancher and the CV bone handled knives they are making now.Never a big fan of their stainless steel blades new or old.
Try looking at Schatt & Morgan.com and Queens website,also check out GEC and Case sites. A good forum can be found at allaboutpocketknives.com

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Old 01-11-2014, 05:02 PM
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Spyderco.. Don't waste you time and money on anything else..
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Old 01-14-2014, 04:26 PM
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Your going to get a variety of answers, and probably most of them are good solid advice. My advice is going to be different.

Get the one you can lose and not beat yourself up over it.

I have a bunch of knives, but the one's I seem to lose are the one's I think I like the most. So unless your going to carry it around and never use it, the chances of you breaking it or losing it, can be pretty high.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
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I keep trying to find something better than this, and just keep coming back to this. It is the thinest knife I own after removing the clip. I love the blade design. It has assisted opening. If I loose it, it's not painful on the wallet to replace it. I have bought a many benchmades/gerbers trying to replace it, but I always come back to the kershaw.

+1 I love my Kershaws. 3 of them came thru the snap-on dealer I have only bought 1 knife that wasn't a Kershaw since and its been close to 10yrs. That was a Smith & Wesson Extreme Ops. Local parts store had it on clearence for $5. Couldn't pass it up. I've sent in 2 of the kershaws and they send them back all fixed up like new. Even the one I was using for a screwdriver and broke the tip and arc d it out.
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Old 03-22-2014, 05:29 AM
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Practical Tactical Heirloom

Sentimental more than practical $7 schrade old timer with 340T old carbon steel found in a grab box at a tractor show. Has great character with blades showing much wear from being sharpened by previous owners. Sharp and small in any pocket.

Tactical S&W extreme ops assisted open with pocket clip. solid and bad news for anyone if used in self defense. $17 on the heavy side.

Heirloom wish list. Folder with titanium frame and exotic steel blade that sharpens well with no rust. Spiderco serrated would be a bear to sharpen. If I payed over a couple hundered dollars I would fear loss or damage with everyday use.
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:04 AM
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looking for a good pocket knife looking for a good pocket knife looking for a good pocket knife looking for a good pocket knife looking for a good pocket knife  
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Originally Posted by 44magsam View Post
what is the best pocket knife on the market and i am talking about blades that are made our of the best steel available? i like the trapper 2 blade style. i want to splurge and for once buy the best quality pocket knife i can get. any suggestions
Benchmade or Emerson. No question about it.
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benchmade, kershaw, kydex, leather, m16, micarta, model 16, randall, smith & wesson, smith and wesson, stag, tactical, titanium, top-break

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